1st Time Jeeper Opinions

[SlowPocono]

Your asking if one model or year is better than the others, and while everybody has an opinion on it who cares. if you buy a CJ its going to EAT your wallet bust your knuckles are make you lose sleep at night but for that time you are using it, its worth it . if you don't want to work on it for months before you really can enjoy it than buy a wrangler if that sounds good to you buy a CJ and welcome to the club.

Thanks, Mark.
I hope everyone does have an opinion and that's what I'm looking for.
Your point is valid, but I care because if enough opinions are offered and supported with some reason, be it practical or emotional, they will help me find the trail I want to follow.

Oh, it does sound good to me. Thanks for the welcome.

 

[johnnyreb]

I own an 80 CJ5. I love 5's over the 7's. Post 76's have a better frame and I love my 258. AMC20's are iffy unless you do some upgrades. If I were to buy a wrangler, then i'd drop the square lights and add a cj front clip and at least get it looking normal.

 

[Petescj]

Since you have time before you purchase your Cj Id take time to narrow down what you really want. 76 to 86 are going to be the easiest to get parts for. Theres more aftermarket support for those years. Any Cj that is mainly rust free is your best bet unless your a body man.

Myself Id like a CJ6 with a T-18 trans so I had the granny low and a Dana 44 rear. The extra wheelbase is great for snow and rock climbing. The extra length on them isnt additional overhang in the rear like on the CJ8.

That said if I couldnt get a CJ6 , Id look for a 82 CJ8 with an automatic or T-176 trans. No computer to mess with and wide trac axles. One day I will have another 82 Scrambler. After the kids are out. These are just 2 Cjs that I really like. Make yours YOURS!

 

[TroyaCantrell]

I think they're amazing too. I do wonder why you suggest that I wouldn't love a '66 the way you do.

"They are hard to find parts for ..."
I'm very troubled by this remark.
I've explored some of the parts resources suggested on the forum and was very encouraged, delighted even, by the seemingly endless supply of replacement and upgrade parts. Is there something I'm missing?

The main reason I'm waiting until Spring to make my move is so that I have time to divest myself of several motorcycles to free up the space to keep and work on my Jeep. This Jeep thing is actually going to save me quite a bit on registration and insurance bills.

I appreciate that you're trying to look out for my well being but I have practical and comfy vehicles. I'd like to add something that's a little more like...
well, like a Jeep.
Is it possible for a Jeep to be too much like a Jeep?
I hadn't considered that.

In any case, thanks for your effort in helping me Troy. Sincerely

You bet, glad to offer an opinion. I think you would love a '66 especially a CJ6 but in the price range of the CL you posted you will not find something that isn't going to be a effort and $$$ to get on the road safely and reliably. I am probably into mine for $8000 and it is still on jack stands as I redo the front axle seals, brakes and bearings as it puked oil into the right front brake drum. And I still haven't painted it.

Parts are out there but harder to find pre 76. When rebuilding the steering box I found 1 source for the steering shaft /worm gear and sector shaft that mine needed. Post 76 will have more aftermarket availability is all. (No expert on this as I don't own one).

You mentioned possibly being a poseur, and nothing really wrong with that. The wrangler is a bit of a CJ poseur as well so it seems like a good solution.

With all that said if you find a CJ you like, can afford, and you have checked out based on what you have read here and you will enjoy then by all means pick it up and start a build thread. we will be happy to help you enjoy it and keep it running.


Troy Cantrell
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Build thread - '66 CJ 6:
http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15075

 

[Hedgehog]

Parts availability .........

It is easy to be fooled by the seemingly endless supply of Jeep parts, after all they are all about the same. Yes and no on that one. Jeeps did change over the years with three or so basic leaps. Up until 1961 or so there were several companies in the Jeep world, but surprisingly enough parts are easier to find that they are for '61-'71.

The '61-'71 jeeps in many ways are a black hole for many parts. Willys had a firm hand in those years and Willys was a company passing into history.

AMC became the player in '70 or so. The '71-75 Jeeps are called intermediates and some parts are impossible to find, but later parts are generally close enough to make work. Bolt ins, no not exactly. These Jeeps had the Dana 44 rear axle, these are considered to be the very best Jeep rear end.

There is a world of parts available for '76-'86. These are Chrysler years and some years are far better than others. With problem areas being in the transmissions. Jeep has never been known for great transmissions with the notable exception of the T-18 which had to be special ordered. Be afraid, be very afraid of the early '80's 4 speeds and 4 cylinder engines (Edit: the engines weren't bad, the problem is the transmission they are attached to). The SR4 is an awful transmission with the other 4 speeds in that era being little better.

When looking at Jeep parts pay special attention to the year. You will see that '76-'86 parts dominate.

 

[jpeck71]

Parts availability .........
There is a world of parts available for '76-'86. These are Chrysler years and some years are far better than others. With problem areas being in the transmissions. Jeep has never been known for great transmissions with the notable exception of the T-18 which had to be special ordered. Be afraid, be very afraid of the early '80's 4 speeds and 4 cylinder engines. The SR4 is an awful transmission with the other 4 speeds in that era being little better.

When looking at Jeep parts pay special attention to the year. You will see that '76-'86 parts dominate.

Awesome! I have a 78 CJ5 I'm starting on.

When shopping make sure you spend as much time on your back looking the underside over as you do the rest, looking for rusted frame and body parts and po modifications. More often than not things po's add on or change are gona be trouble spots that need to be corrected.
I think we had a thread here a while back on what po's are capable of .
Never wear your good clothes when going to look at any Jeep.

I'd like to second or third this opinion. I spent enough time under my CJ5 to notice that while it did have some body rust it also had almost NO frame rust. It certainly did however have alterations by a PO removed a few times that I'm just now finding out about that I may have noticed if I'd spent a little more time looking and looked at a few other Jeeps.

I've had mine for 3 weeks now and it was drivable when purchased, enough so that I already know that I love it. I may not make it a highway vehicle ever but if I can have fun with it and learn a few things along the way that's what I'm looking for.

I had an 09 Wrangler for a DD for about 3 years. I wheeled it a few times, enough that I got a feel for the off road life, and that I didn't want to take something into the woods that I was relying on anymore. There really is something special about the CJs though.

Jeremy

 

[Petescj]

Awesome! I have a 78 CJ5 I'm starting on.

That was my first Cj. 360 4 in lift on 33s. I miss it dearly. Damn crooks.

 

[tjmons]

There is nothing like a CJ when it comes to driving down the road and feeling that Jeep thing. Its a true American classic that represents every man and women who served this great nation. There are deals out there for every level of mechincal experience. I bought mine for almost nothing and have enjoyed it with little or no maintenace or parts. I can run down the highway at 70 mph or take it anywhere it will go. Its all about finding a cj that works for your needs. The cj continues to climb in value and resale depending on condition. You will not see that in a wrangler purchase. Besides a cj/mj are the one and only true Jeep.

 

[SlowPocono]

This is turning out to be helpful, thanks.

I see now that parts for the early CJ5 will be harder to find and while that is a little daunting, (that's almost a pun) I'm willing to work through that, especially since this Jeep won't be my only transportation.

I understand that there are preferences for various years and configurations based on their features and capabilities. I recognize that we have emotional links to certain models too. That might be part of what's coloring my preferences. A large part of the Jeep attraction for me is the way they look. For me, a CJ5 is the ultimate look. As I said, I have a preference for the shorter hood of the pre 1972 models but you have made me consider the possibility of something a little newer. While respecting the aesthetic sense of you who have a different opinion, I'm pretty sure that I don't want the tilted windshield of the post 1976 vehicles. That does allow me an extra five model years to consider though. That's helpful. You are also helping me realize that the appearance of the Jeep that I buy is very important to me. I guess having the right look will be more important to me than having the ultimate in performance or convenience. It's good to realize that.

A number of the comments have suggested that I should look for something as close to original as possible and that's something I had thought of myself. It's reassuring to have someone else confirm that.

It seems to me that most of the members of this forum have equipment that's newer than that 1976 boundary that I've tentatively established. I hope that doesn't stifle the conversation too much.

I'm also sort of surprised that there haven't been more, stronger, opinions about what the ultimate old Jeep would be like. I half expected that there would be arguments about what recommendations I should follow. Maybe that simply means that there is no difference of opinion and the ideal configuration has already been established.

Thanks again. I'm still learning and realizing that when this is all settled in my mind, and I know what I want, I'll still have to settle for what I can find on the market in the Spring.

 

[Old Dog]

Kind'a sounds like you already know what you want. If I was you that's what I would buy and just work through the hard to find parts issue.
I've always liked the 2A's, some day I'll get one, I hope. Right now my 7 is keeping me broke.

 

[SlowPocono]

Kind'a sounds like you already know what you want. If I was you that's what I would buy and just work through the hard to find parts issue.
I've always liked the 2A's, some day I'll get one, I hope. Right now my 7 is keeping me broke.

I guess that's true, Mr. Dog.

It's been discovered that sometimes what I want isn't necessarily the smartest thing to get. I'm okay with that, but I trying to make sure that I don't get the dumbest thing possible.

I appreciate your encouragement.
Maybe all I want is for is everyone to say that I'm not making a terrible mistake.

Does anyone have an opinion about this deal?

1967 Jeep CJ-5

 

[steve1973]

My prevoius Jeep ownership includes a 1966 Waggy with the 327, 1972 CJ5 258 and power steering, 1973 Commando 304 Auto, 1977 CJ7 Golden Eagle 304, 1979 CJ7 258, 1983 Scrambler started with a 258 and ended with a 304 and 35's and I have driven numerous Wranglers of all generations.

When it came time to enter back into the Jeep world a few years back I had a similiar wish list as you, looks, history, reliability, pure nejoyment, low miles etc.

For me, the intermediates of 72 -75 are the perfect Jeeps. The body, with the exception of the rear mounted gas tank, 3 extra inches in the front fenders and hood is basically the same as from 55 on. AMC didnt change any of the tooling, so holes for floor mounted foot pedals, holes in the bumpers for PTO shafts, etc are all included at no cost. The engines are the reliable and somewhat modern 258 and 304's. The brakes are significantly upgraded over the earlier models as is the entire steering mechanism. There is plenty of debate of narrow track vs wide track, etc. but if you plan to keep an intermediate fairly stock with no lift and tires that fit it isnt an issue, Keep it as close to what the engineers designed and you will be as surprised as I am every day I drive it how well a 40 year old Jeep Runs, handles and brakes.

As for specific years. I dont like the 1972 because the clutch is cable activated and is prone to breaking. It can be changed out, but my memories of driving my 1972 back in 84 kept me away from that year. !975 went to catylitic converters and first generation electronic ignition. I'd stay away, but it is easy enough to replace.

3 years ago i purchased a 1973 CJ5 with the 258 and T14, 3.73 gears. It was a plow Jeep, all stock with 41k miles but hadn't tbeen registerd since 1981. The advantage of an old plow Jeep is most likely it hasnt been wheeled hard if it all in that 40 year span of time. Everything was original and all electrical and rubber parts needed replacement. The body still needs paint as it is original as well. Some parts are hard to find, but with patience the chase is worth it. All in I'm right about $5k including purchase price. I wouldnt hesitate to drive it cross country if i had to. No worries about breaking down.

Just my opinion.....

 

[SlowPocono]

That's an extremely helpful post, steve1973. Thanks.

You've provided me with some new insight.
The summary you posted made some things more clear to me.

Also, I incorrectly assumed that the T14 should be avoided, but your experience indicates that it really isn't an issue.

And, "just your opinion" is exactly what I want to know.

 

[Mark W]

The T14a is not a bad trans its just not quite as tough as the T18 if your going to wheel it hard, I can tell you if rebuilt it shifts nice. and the V6 is awesome power and reliability wise, its just a Buick 225 V6 at its core and that makes parts easy to get. the body looks straight grab a big hammer and a screwdriver check the frame and body for rust, drive it if it runs check 4 wheel drive in all modes. if that's all OK grab it, haggle for less of course but it looks good.

 

[steve1973]

I havent had any issue with the T14 in this one or the 72 I had back in 1984. The current 73 has a 258 with a Pertronix ignitor, MSD coil 8.5mm wires, an MSD 6 digital and a Weber 34/34. All purchased for reliability and mileage, hence slight HP improvement. The tires are 30 x 9.5, which work fine with the original springs and no power sterring. None of these parts exert any undue stress on the T14. The 72 had the 258, headers and 235/75 tires. That one was a daily driver. They both use the T14 and it has proven to be reliable in my set-ups with my type of East Coast on and off road driving.

As a side note, the 77 CJ7 Golden Eagle, 304 with all the high performance mods and 31's did manage to blow a T-150.

 

[Hedgehog]

If I were looking for a '60's jeep the one in your post would be hard to walk away from. I've got a buddy that has a '69 that looks remarkably the same as that one, leave out the minor fender damage. The V6 is a much respected even loved engine.

Here is something else to consider when looking at the older Jeeps especially. How big are you? Jeeps were made for smallish people, especially the older models. With modification I fit fine in my '75. Not so much in a '60's jeep. Why? The '60's jeeps have different pedal locations. Basically the mechanisms are under the floor and the pedals turn downwards. The newer Jeeps have swing pedals that move more or less away from the driver. At first this seems like a small difference but it can be a major discomfort. So, before setting your heart on various Jeeps actually sit in one, drive it if you can. I truly wanted an older Jeep until I drove one as an adult. The brakes weren't anything near what we are used to today, the steering mechanism was under the floor making it ackward to work on and not as precise as todays steering,

 

[TroyaCantrell]

Just want to say one more thing, I don't want you to think I was saying buying an older CJ is a bad idea, only that it might be better based on your intended use and skills to go with something a bit newer. If you want an older model after hearing all the info, do it, and welcome to the club.

Keep in mind what Old Dog said though, you are going to have to get under it and drive it to known if it is a good deal for sure. Very hard to tell while just looking at picture it's true value.


Troy Cantrell
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Build thread - '66 CJ 6:
http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15075

 

[Mark W]

the steering fix is easy ford reverse rotation or Saginaw. ford reverse rotation is easy to get can be found in:

• Ford Bronco (Fullsize) 1980-1996
• Ford Bronco II 1984-1990
• Ford E-Series Van (E-150/250/350) 1982-1996
• Ford F-Series Truck (F-150/250/350, 2WD & 4WD) 1983-1997
• Ford Ranger 1980-1997
• Mazda Trucks (B2300, B4000, Navajo) 1991-1997

The Saginaw is a little harder to find but is also a better box.

 

[SlowPocono]

This is getting good now. I'm grateful that you guys are starting to get interested in this discussion. These more specific recommendations, cautions, and opinions are exactly what I was hoping to get.

I'm definitely going to take your advice about carefully inspecting the hidden undersides of my prospective buys. I wonder what sort of reactions I'll get from sellers when I slide underneath their prize with a hammer in my hand.

After studying a bunch of ads and corresponding with some owners, it seems that there are a lot of people who own these things with a lot less knowledge than even I have. The ads rarely get specific about the drive train components and responses to my inquiries on that subject will be "it has the original transmission" or "it's four wheel drive". I'm really looking forward to the actual meetings.

I've been leery about the fiberglass body "restorations" that I see, and I'm not sure why. I suppose original, unmolested is attractive because it will be easier to determine what I'm actually buying and there's been less PO modifying. Now, I'm beginning to think that there are probably some good, well done, rehabs that have fiberglass body parts, and if I can be satisfied that nothing underneath is too screwed up, it might not be a bad buy. Are there any opinions on that viewpoint?

When I'm lying down, I measure about 6' from end to end, so I'm not any bigger than average. I'm aware that the concept of ergonomics was somewhat alien to the designers of these earlier Jeeps and that doesn't bother me at all. I'm really looking forward to the weirdness. I will be comforted by finding the high beam button on the floor where it belongs. The driver involvement experience that's so radically different from the normal, contemporary vehicles is exactly what I want. I'm looking forward to the challenge of keeping my old Jeep on my side of the road.

 

[steve1973]

Good luck with your search. Take the feedback on this forum with a grain of salt. How we use our Jeeps and what is acceptable is truly personal and geography based. Our idea of acceptable rust on the East Coast would be completely un-acceptable on the West Coast.
I've never had a fiberglass body on one, but do know they come with unique challenges such as electrical grounds, dashboards, seat mounts, etc.