Locking rear axle

[BusaDave9]

The first thing I would do is pull the cover and see what you have then take it from there.

I agree,

He really knows his stuff. I don't blame you for agreeing with him.

 

[007]

Agree. Ha!


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[Lumpy Grits]

Didn't you get the notice?
It's required under the updated membership rules.
:laugh::laugh:

LG

 

[Posi]

Haha, I should have typed I agree, above my quote not below it.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

:laugh:
LG

 

[Bill D]

X3
How do we know the noise is come'n from the rear axle?
Noise can 'travel' within the drive line.
OP-I would also have you ck the front axle steering U-joints for wear/slop.
LG

These are relatively new and in good shape.

 

[Bill D]

Me too.


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I have an appointment for next Wednesday morning to get into the shop and pull the rear differential cover and see what's in there. If it is a Trac-Loc, I'm going to have it rebuilt (if it needs it), have one piece axles installed and have the axle tubes welded. I'll learn to live with the 3.07 ratios until such time as I can regear the transfer case.

I have had a real education on Jeep drivetrain in the past few days and I really appreciate the advice and assistance from everyone.

 

[BusaDave9]

Sounds like a plan. Keep us posted.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

May I ask what you were quoted for all of this work?
Get'n the clutch packs for that old TL are a PITA. BTDT....
BTW-Just because a U-joint is new(what do YOU call relatively new?)doesn't mean there ain't a problem with one.
What brand U-joints did you use?
LG

 

[Hedgehog]

If it's pricey to rebuild the Trac-loc, look into installing a TrueTrac by Eaton. They are relatively inexpensive (~$450), use mechanical Limited slip rather than a clutch pack. I've got one in the front and it's great! If I had to do it again I'd put one in the back too.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

!
That TL ain't worth rebuilding.
LG

 

[Bill D]

May I ask what you were quoted for all of this work?
Get'n the clutch packs for that old TL are a PITA. BTDT....
BTW-Just because a U-joint is new(what do YOU call relatively new?)doesn't mean there ain't a problem with one.
What brand U-joints did you use?
LG

My Dear Mr. Grits -

Yes, you MAY ask what I was quoted for all of this work.

Clutch packs are no problem. My shop has them in stock.

I had a U-joint go out a bit less than two years ago so I replaced them all. I buy my U-joints from a quaint little factory in Pakistan - why do you ask?

 

[Bill D]

!
That TL ain't worth rebuilding.
LG

Precisely!
That's why I decided to have one piece axles installed, the tubes welded, an ARB locker installed with the mid sized ARB compressor so I can also inflate tires. Ain't cheap but then I can afford it so why not?

 

[mtnwhlr]

I buy my U-joints from a quaint little factory in Pakistan - why do you ask?

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Every person I know who has run an ARB, has had internal leaks within the diff. inside of 2 yrs.
I won't install them any more either.
On the u-joints-I was hope'n you used the ones Crown sells. :laugh:
Me-I settled for OEM, Dana-Spicer.......
Folks rarely replace the front axle steering U-joints until they break.
I'm still not convinced you noise is in the rear diff..........
BTW-Go with the larger ARB comp. Far more CFM and faster tire fill.
LG

 

[Bill D]

Every person I know who has run an ARB, has had internal leaks within the diff. inside of 2 yrs.
I won't install them any more either.
LG

Why did I just know ARB wouldn't get an LG approval rating.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Facts, are stubborn things.
Hope your one of the lucky ones.
ARB has had several internal seal revisions of the years, try'n to correct this leakage issue.
I just spoke to the owner of a jeep that I had installed 2 ARB's in about 1 yr ago. He says that they seem to be work'n fine at this time. I also have calls into 2 more to get an update. I know for fact that one had a rear diff leakage issue a few yrs back because I installed the replacement.
FWIW: I base my ring & pinion and differential opinions on almost 50 yrs of 'hands on' installation work. I'm not a 'salesman' for anydangbody.
My opinion is worth just barely what you paid for it
Carry on,
LG

 

[Torxhead]

Bill, I would also agree that the ARB air compressor is a bit weak for tire inflation. I have one and don't even use it for the tires. If you are going to use an air compressor for the trail, an additional air tank can make things easier. I have my tank mounted in front of the gas tank and have enough lift and bump stops not to worry about the diff banging into it. I would also agree with going to the Dana-Spicer u-joints, although by now they are probably made in China anyway. Carrying spares and the tools to replace them is always good on the trail too.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Torxhead-Do you have any issues with condensation/water forming with your air tank location?
One of the 'killers' of the ARB seals is the crud scaring the diff's seals, that comes from unfiltered air entering the diff.
LG

 

[Torxhead]

Torxhead-Do you have any issues with condensation/water forming with your air tank location?
One of the 'killers' of the ARB seals is the crud scaring the diff's seals, that comes from unfiltered air entering the diff.
LG

Lumpy, I do have bleeders at both the ARB compressor and the underbody air tank that is fed from the Sanden compressor. The ARB compressor is the one that was available about 15 or so years ago when I got the locker and have had no large leaks from it. If I do leave the locker on for extended periods, the compressor will cycle at least once.