Locking rear axle

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Locking rear axle
That winch won't help much when you spin a hub out in the 'sticks' run'n those 2-piece axles.......
LG
 
Then it must have been the 79 CJ5 for sale in Ouray (across from the gas station) that had the one piece shafts, sorry.

Anyways, check to see if FN has an 86 CJ rear 44, the gearing would be 2.73, 3.31, or 4.10, hard to find but you won't know until you ask. If you want the 44 you will need a gear swap as well. It would be a direct bolt-in.
You could also use 72-75 CJ5. Standard gearing would be 3.73 which would be good for your needs.

 
Then it must have been the 79 CJ5 for sale in Ouray (across from the gas station) that had the one piece shafts, sorry.

Anyways, check to see if FN has an 86 CJ rear 44, the gearing would be 2.73, 3.31, or 4.10, hard to find but you won't know until you ask. If you want the 44 you will need a gear swap as well. It would be a direct bolt-in.
You could also use 72-75 CJ5. Standard gearing would be 3.73 which would be good for your needs.


Would that be a standard 72-75 CJ5 rear diff with axles and etc.? Then change the front to 3.73?
 
Tranny in "N" and t'case in 2HI.
You could remove the diff cover and take a few pictures for us.
LG

I put the rear axle on jacks this afternoon and turned the right rear wheel. Basically, nothing happened to the left wheel. After a bit it sorta moved in the opposite direction of the right one. Guess it looks like I have (1) two piece axles which isn't particularly good and (2) I have a dead in the water Trac-Lok which isn't particularly good. What's the best solution which won't cost an arm and a leg?
 
Sent you a PM


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If you have 2 piece axles you'll want to upgrade to one piece.
Remove the cover and look at your differential.
Does it look like either of these?
trac-lok.jpg

Or there's more options here: http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f105/lockers-limited-slip-differentials-12434/
 
Would that be a standard 72-75 CJ5 rear diff with axles and etc.? Then change the front to 3.73?

Yes, 72-75 CJ5 complete rear axle, then swap out the front gears. Your current rear axle has a 2.5 spring perch and the 72-75 has 1.75. You can cut off your current perches and burn them on the 44 or buy new.
 
Yes, 72-75 CJ5 complete rear axle, then swap out the front gears. Your current rear axle has a 2.5 spring perch and the 72-75 has 1.75. You can cut off your current perches and burn them on the 44 or buy new.


This option would also keep your rear end narrow track whereas the 86 would be the wide track.

The other best option is to grab a set of axles, and put in a Trutrac with your gears.


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Bill sounds more like a open diff.
Pop the cover and get some pictures.
Are you ever gonna answer my question and the driveshafts? :rolleyes:
LG
 
Bill sounds more like a open diff.
Pop the cover and get some pictures.
Are you ever gonna answer my question and the driveshafts? :rolleyes:
LG

Lumpy,
I'm sorry. I thought I had answered your question about the U-joints and driveshafts but when I went back and looked, I don't see it. Yes, they have been lubed and yes they are nice and tight - no slop at all.

I plan to drop the cover and see what's under there and I will get some pictures but just can't do it in the next couple of days. Actually, it probably doesn't much matter, if I change out the whole rear end. I agree, I really need to do something about the two piece axles and, as Posi suggested, changing the whole back end makes more sense IF I can find one.
 
Set of axles local to you
https://cosprings.craigslist.org/search/wto?query=jeep+rear+axle

Guessing you could pick it up for $400
Use the front and rear axle and add your disc brakes up front.
Or use the rear 44 and front gears.
You would then have spare front shafts, locking hubs, and driveshafts. Then sell the frame and springs. Just a thought.
 
THX!- :chug:
Concerning the 'clang/bang' you hear. Is it just in 4LO, or do you hear it in 4Hi also??
May want to do an inspection of the engine and tranny mounts.
Also-Make sure the U bolts on the axle to spring packs are TIGHT. Torque to at least 50-55 ft/lbs.

LG
 
THX!- :chug:
Concerning the 'clang/bang' you hear. Is it just in 4LO, or do you hear it in 4Hi also??
May want to do an inspection of the engine and tranny mounts.
Also-Make sure the U bolts on the axle to spring packs are TIGHT. Torque to at least 50-55 ft/lbs.

LG

I wouldn't rule out what LG's saying here. That axle can wind itself up a bit (so-to-speak) dragging downhill and then unload one way or another where the springs meet the axle and make a bang.

The more I read this and the more I think about it, I'm wondering how the diff could make this noise "only" in the situation described...:confused:
 
Set of axles local to you
https://cosprings.craigslist.org/search/wto?query=jeep+rear+axle

Guessing you could pick it up for $400
Use the front and rear axle and add your disc brakes up front.
Or use the rear 44 and front gears.
You would then have spare front shafts, locking hubs, and driveshafts. Then sell the frame and springs. Just a thought.

Are these EXACTLY the same width as my '80 axles? The guy at my shop says that they are 1" narrower than mine. He says there are two different narrow axles before the '85 wide-track.
 
You have a CJ5, their all narrow tracks
The front 30, 72-81 = 53"
Narrow track 44, up to 75 = 50.5
Narrow track 20 76-81= 50.5"
 
Yeah...what Posi said... There are two different narrow axles. The 20 and the 44 ;-)


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I wouldn't worry about buying axles quite yet. That may be overkill. Let's find out just what is wrong. Most automatic lockers do bang and make noises.
 
Me too.


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:agree: X3
How do we know the noise is come'n from the rear axle?
Noise can 'travel' within the drive line.
OP-I would also have you ck the front axle steering U-joints for wear/slop.
LG
 
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