Build Thread '73 CJ Everything Build

[KeithMcKalister]

man thats a neat rear main seal i dont think i have ever seen them blue like that

It really ties the build together. Plus now I can tell someone "Hey crawl up in there use a videoscope and check out my new blue rear main seal."

On a similar note the wifey bought me a new oil pan so I'll be installing that today. Also I mated the trans/T-shirt to the engine last night. All I have left to do is slam it back together, lubricate everything and grind gears.

 

[KeithMcKalister]

Alright. It's been quite sometime since my last post.

If you recall I had purchased a set of full width axles. Whelp, I have them installed and it's sitting on it's own weight.

I am running Cherokee springs on all 4 corners. I have a full width drop hanger for the front that pushed my axle forward 2.5" and down 4.5". I moved the rear axle back as far as possible. My new when base is 89.5".

I completely rebuilt the front axle. I'm running a Limited slip with 5.13 gears, 1 ton high steer and 2.5" Cherokee lift springs.

I rebuilt the rear axle with new bearings and seals as well as welded pumpkin tubes. I've converti the 14 bolt to disc brakes and plan to run the El Dorado calipers. I've gone back and forth with this and a t case (big $) ebrake with basic calipers or basic calipers and a lone lock. I feel confident in my abilities to get the El Dorado calipers adjusted properly so I will have a mechanical e brake. I don't really plan to utilize the e brake that often but I have heard you need a mechanical type to pass trail inspections. I'm running a welded dif with 5.13 gears im also using Pro Comp 3.5" lift springs for the rear. They will settle over time and as of now sit about 2" higher in the rear. I moved my perches in as far as possible.

I still need to get my high steer completed but I do have the drag link all welded up with 1 3/8" 120dom.

I will be switching over to a power brake booster setup from somewhere and haven't figured out whether to runs a proportioning valve.

I also removed my stock linkage clutch system and will be installing a hydraulic setup at some point.

I need new brake lines, shocks, d lines made and a few other small things to get back on the trail. It's a budget build so o don't move too quickly.

My rear driveline needs to be extended a minimum 5" over stock at ride height to 21". My front driveline needs to be extended about 6" total to get me where I need to be. Ride height of front d line is 36".

I had front steel braided brake lines before but they too need to be extended about 6" to roughly 30" total length.

Overall I'm happy with were I'm at for progress and how it looks.

I plan to run 38.5/11/16 boggers. It currently is sitting on 285/75/16 bad tires.

Here are some pics of it and some of my metal glueing.

 

[KeithMcKalister]

Full width

 

[gert]

Sweet work, keep after it, my build took wasaaayyyy longer than I ever wanted it to

Man I forgot how wide my axles were till I just saw your pics lol, I cut my 1/2 ton axles from 67.5 to 60 to get my tires tucked under the fenders better


Looking good glad to see progress


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[KeithMcKalister]

Sweet work, keep after it, my build took wasaaayyyy longer than I ever wanted it to

Man I forgot how wide my axles were till I just saw your pics lol, I cut my 1/2 ton axles from 67.5 to 60 to get my tires tucked under the fenders better

Looking good glad to see progress

My front is 69" and the rear is 67". I don't see myself ever cutting them down. It's going to be a beast. The springs are quite flexy too. Me likey

 

[KeithMcKalister]

Quick update. Installed my high steer arms. Got the new power brake booster. I'll be making a firewall plate like the one pictured. I will be ordering my 30" brake lines. Need to redo the metal brake lines and some on the 14 bolt.
Soon I'll also have my hydraulic clutch, shocks and drive lines. I also need to buy a flange yoke for the Dana 20 so I can make my own t-case e brake. It's my understanding that a line lock won't pass a trail inspection at a place like the Rubicon. Don't know if that is actually a thing or not.

 

[j6824]

Nice...very encouraging

Much of what you have already done encompasses a lot of what I would like to ultimately do

I will be following with great anticipation

 

[KeithMcKalister]

Update Alert! Making some great progress on my power brake booster and hydraulic clutch install.
I picked up some 3/16" plate for my firewall weight displacement project.
I bought a hydraulic master from Summit as well as a GM slave. I will need to fabricate a bracket that will allow me to mate the master cylinder to the clutch pedal.

I'll probably cut the bottom right of the plate at an angle but otherwise that's close to what the final product will look like. I'm also going to play the inside for additional support. #OverBuildIt

 

[gert]

Sweet dude lookin good, I’m pretty sure you won’t need to plate the inside of the firewall your brake pedal beefs up the backside really well and it’s tied into the dash


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[KeithMcKalister]

Another step in the right direction. I am now working on the lower inner plate brace. Should have this all together tomorrow.

 

[KeithMcKalister]

A friend needed help with a door swap on his GM product today so I didn't get it bolted in but I have it done and ready for paint.

Tell me what you think? Love it or hate it, it's going in.

 

[KeithMcKalister]

Let first start off by saying this isn't a show CJ. I plan to beat on this thing including adding many dents. Hence the rust that hasn't been addressed inside the tub.
Anyway, I have completed my firewall plate including the inside plate. I primed and painted everything but I'm no paint expert.

My next project will be hooking up the brakes. I need to order 33" front brake lines. For the rear a 30" rear line and hard lines on the rear axle and 2 small flex lines to mate to the rear calipers.

Also during this same timeframe I will be completing my hydraulic clutch. I have to completely modify the AA slave cylinder mounting bracket. Not much work is needed here though.

Things left to do in no particular order:
Output flange yoke (so I can run a T case E brake eventually)
Drivelines
Finish drag link
Shock tabs and shock towers
Shocks
Tires
Finish roll cage
Install Bluetooth stereo system (maybe)

 

[KeithMcKalister]

I'm only allowed to upload one photo at a time.

 

[KeithMcKalister]

Got it to work.

 

[TnCJ]

Lookin good. I'm jealous of your brake booster set up. That is on my to-do list.

 

[gert]

Man that’s definitely a beefy set up don’t worry about show and shine... mine is entirely painted in krylon I expect mine to get heavily scratched for awhile


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[KeithMcKalister]

Started my slave cylinder mount. I bought the Advanced Adapter part #ADD-715535. I have completely cut it up and modified it to fit my application..it was meant for a NV4500. I have had to clearance the mounting point to clear the bellhousing. I also am using a Novak clutch release arm and so I had to change the look of the adapter plate from a box design to a lap joint. I have started to glue it together. Slowly making progress. I am also not the greatest welder but I make it work.

Also I had a heck of a time finding adapters for my hydraulic clutch line but ultimately I have prevailed. It goes from male inverted flate 7/16 24 thread to male flared 3AN on the master cylinder side. And then female 3AN inverted flare to 7/16 24 thread male flared. PITA

 

[KeithMcKalister]

Thinking of adding an additional support to take some stress off the bellhousing mounting bolt holes. Otherwise it'll be off to paint and installed.

 

[KeithMcKalister]

Got the master and slave completely installed and gravity bleed. I'mma have a couple hours to myself tomorrow to complete the clutch pedal adapter plate and this step of the project will be done.

 

[KeithMcKalister]

Friday I decided to reconnect my engine wiring instead of working on the clutch pedal. Fed it through the firewall and got it all reconnected.

Today I started to work on the clutch pedal and figure out how to connect it to the new hydraulic master. I've got it marked up and know where I will be drilling a new hole. I plan to weld in a pin to hang the pushrod to the pedal and secure it with a cotter similar to how the brake pedal is hooked to the master cylinder.
I have removed the pedal assembly. I had to drop my steering column down to get it out. As always a few more photos.