Build Thread '73 CJ Everything Build

[KeithMcKalister]

Quick update.

I have completed the YJ wiper linkages and pivot install. I bought the parts from eBay and from Rock Auto. I also had to make my own pivot retaining nuts. .

Here is the picture of the completed work. I can only run 11" wiper blades. I don't have the wiper motor cover installed in the photo.

 

[KeithMcKalister]

After fighting with the factory steering arm on the Dana 44 I finally got it removed. I had to use my angle grinder and cut the cone washers off.

 

[gert]

:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh: that orange thing in the background is your problem, it took me lots of pb blaster and a 4lbs BFH to get my cone washers to come loose, glad I didn't have to put up the fight you did whew

After fighting with the factory steering arm on the Dana 44 I finally got it removed. I had to use my angle grinder and cut the cone washers off.

 

[KeithMcKalister]

Picture update

 

[KeithMcKalister]

I was able to remove the steering arm studs today. They out up a decent fight. I had to weld the old nuts to the studs and use a big cheater bar to get them removed. One step closer.

I'll be doing a little bit of offroading next weekend. I'm looking forward to the trip and I will post pics as soon as I can.

 

[gert]

I was able to remove the steering arm studs today. They out up a decent fight. I had to weld the old nuts to the studs and use a big cheater bar to get them removed. One step closer.

I'll be doing a little bit of offroading next weekend. I'm looking forward to the trip and I will post pics as soon as I can.

I tried to get mine out the other week because I have brand new studs to replace them with, of course they didnt move so I said screw it lol I figured mine are in as hard as yours

 

[KeithMcKalister]

I tried to get mine out the other week because I have brand new studs to replace them with, of course they didnt move so I said screw it lol I figured mine are in as hard as yours

I started using PB Blaster on Wednesday. Heated then up multiple times and tried the vise grips which seemed to work for other people. Ultimately the ole welder to the rescue and a 3' cheater. The studs creaked and popped when they broke loose. I definitely wouldn't want to break a stud off in the knuckle.

 

[gert]

I started using PB Blaster on Wednesday. Heated then up multiple times and tried the vise grips which seemed to work for other people. Ultimately the ole welder to the rescue and a 3' cheater. The studs creaked and popped when they broke loose. I definitely wouldn't want to break a stud off in the knuckle.

Me either, I have heard before they were hard to get loose but not that hard, I will probably remove mine when I go to powder coat latter down the road


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[KeithMcKalister]

Trail pics

 

[KeithMcKalister]

I don't have the time to upload the rest of pics right now.

 

[gert]

dude thats cool

 

[Belizean]

I don't have the time to upload the rest of pics right now.

We will be waiting

 

[KeithMcKalister]

photos

 

[KeithMcKalister]

more photos

 

[KeithMcKalister]

more still. I used some fir tree whips to wipe off excess mud from my soft top

 

[gert]

wow im surprised your shock took such a beating looks like you had a lot of fun tho. im jealous cant wait to get mine going

 

[Belizean]

That's some real goo. Doesn't look like some of that real clay stuff that is just about impossible to remove though. That can be some miserable stuff

 

[KeithMcKalister]

Here's a brief update:

After I got home from mud wheeling and gave my CJ a thorough cleaning there was a howl/whine coming from the bell housing.

At first I figured that I had mud and debris built up in the clutch and bell housing so flushed as much of it out as I could. The howl/whine only got worse and my two ideas to fix it were to wait until it rains and drive it around for a while to really get a lot of water up into the bell or to pull my transmission/T-case and give it a good inspection and cleaning.

I decided to pull the transmission/T-case because I have never had it out of the CJ and this would afford me the opportunity to replace some seals and the aforementioned good cleaning. I drained the white gear oil (this has never been changed since I've owned the CJ) and removed the trans/t-case. Once I had the trans on the shop floor I noticed the adjustable Throwout bearing race or bore had backed out and stopped the clutch fork arm from completely disengaging. This caused one finger of the clutch fork arm to bend when the clutch (mechanical) was engaged. The bent clutch fork arm then would grind on the clutch pressure plate fins when not engaged thus causing the howl/whine.

I ultimately determined the cause of the howl/whine was the adjustable throwout bearing. What had happened was mud got up into the throwout bearing between the race and transmission bearing retainer shaft. The mud dried out all of the grease and caused binding. When the clutch was engaged it would slowly back out the race causing it to be out of adjustment leading to the clutch fork arm bend.

Since I have the trans out I am also in the process of replacing the rear main seal, oil pan gasket and oil pan on the sbc. I also have a new inspection plate ordered and plan to switch out my mechanical clutch with a hydraulic version. I'm thinking of putting 7 hydraulic clutch parts in.

 

[KeithMcKalister]

I hope this helps explain what I meant by adjustable Throwout Bearing. It's a Novak product and it works well but this was the cause of howl/wine.

The rear main seal put up a fight when I tried to remove it. The new seal went in much easier and now I'm waiting on the new oil pan and gasket.

The transmission is putting up quite the fight going back in as well. I will win this fight but it's difficult installing it by myself.

 

[gert]

man thats a neat rear main seal i dont think i have ever seen them blue like that