U-Joint Style Steering Coupler

[Old Dog]

Another

Wooly

The one I used looked like the one posted here.
Here's a pic of the 2 holes that you have to remove the pins from to allow the shaft to telescope.

 

[Neuner]

Another

Wooly

Ah, that's what I was looking for. I'm assuming that 13/16-36 will fit mine? Need to look in the FSM to see if it will tell me. I'd like to order before dismantling.

 

[Neuner]

The one I used looked like the one posted here.
Here's a pic of the 2 holes that you have to remove the pins from to allow the shaft to telescope.

If you drill out the two holes do you not have to remove the gear box and lines to install? That would be excellent since I put them back on not too long ago and don't feel like doing it again plus I'm feeling super lazy with work being so hectic.

 

[tarry99]

Ah, that's what I was looking for. I'm assuming that 13/16-36 will fit mine? Need to look in the FSM to see if it will tell me. I'd like to order before dismantling.

Depends on which Saginaw box you have.......the early series 800 box with a large 6 & 7 cast into the housing near the front bottom below the bell end will be the HD version using the 13/16"x36 input spline......By far the best Power steering box built........these were being factory installed in Jeeps in the late 70's and early 80's......you really need to ID your box via a casting number and then talk with the suppliers of the U-joints or take it apart and measure the input shaft......../.813" is the call out dimension.

 

[Neuner]

No such luck. Mine is stamped with a 5689010 but from what I've found, that is just a housing casting number and doesn't tell you anything else about the unit.

Just simply looking up a replacement for my year with PS at auto parts stores lists only one type of gear box with a 13/16" - 31 spline.

You're right. I'll call and talk to them about it.

 

[Old Dog]

I don't remember what size mine was, I had it apart and just measured and counted splines.
With the pins removed you can slide the shaft together to get it in without removing anything else.
I doubt if you can break it free and get it moving in the jeep though. It usually takes a vice and hammer to get it moving after being rusted together for 30+ years.

 

[Neuner]

After getting distracted, back at this again.

Before pulling the trigger on just the U-Joint Coupler I noticed what might be a clearance issue? My coupling appears to be much closer to the radiator and power steering hoses than others I've seen online. There is about 1/4-1/2" between the bell coupling and radiator. I can't find dimensions of the U-Joint style and if there will be an interference?

Attached photo of clearance issue.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

I'd fix that oil leak first.
LG

 

[Neuner]

I'd fix that oil leak first.
LG

I did by getting rid of the engine. Left the residue on as a rust inhibitor...

 

[Hedgehog]

So, does it hit or touch anything? If not you are good. Make sure everything is tight and be glad it's only close. Parts are very close in that spot on a good day and small variations in space seems to be rather normal.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

That picture is pretty much the way they are.
Mine is close also-
Is that a tranny cooler line in your picture?
LG

 

[Neuner]

So, does it hit or touch anything? If not you are good. Make sure everything is tight and be glad it's only close. Parts are very close in that spot on a good day and small variations in space seems to be rather normal.

None that I know of but some of the wiped away areas on the outer rim of the coupling in the pic makes be believe you are correct and it rubs the hose under certain circumstances.

If that is the case then I'm glad it has oil on it for less friction, right LG?

Thanks for all of the input. Placed the order and will see what happens.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

LG

 

[Woolyworm]

I think you'll find that the ujoint setup is smaller in diameter than that bell housing setup.


Wooly

 

[Hedgehog]

I'd like ot do one of these bell crank to U-joint conversions. I've replaced the guts in mine with a replacement rubber boot. Well the stinckin' boot is cracked already letting in all manner of sand, grit and mud. Replacing the thing would help with the situation. I also hate working on the thing. Nasty greasy floppy hard to deal with part and location.

 

[Woolyworm]

Here is mine

Wooly

 

[Neuner]

This is the one I ordered:

High opinion Universal Black Steel U-Joint 13/16"-36 Spline x 1" DD

I'm more worried about the distance between the steering shaft and gear box. Trying to study between the several different models, this one appears to have the pivet point more in line with the OEM Bell Coupling than the flaming river version but not sure.

 

[Woolyworm]

The steering shaft is typically telescoping so that it will collapse in and accident and not push through your chest - you should be able to adjust it.


Wooly

 

[Woolyworm]

But now that I think about what you are saying your talking about the static distance from the box the the end of the joint -right?


Wooly

 

[Chilly]

My 73 shaft does not telescope. The bell joint is the only way it accommodates axial movement. With a u-joint something will break I think. Probably shove the inner shaft up into the tube, breaking the bottom bushing. Or bend the firewall and dash. Or bend the shaft. Am I missing something? I think the bell joint is a necessary evil with the old-timely steering.