Lockng Hubs First time jeeper question

[007]

I think the PCV has a hose going back and is capped off tee isn't it?

Obviously this is a bit of a fire trap. I'd replace and re run all fuel lines and major power cables.

You can't have too many grounds. Good ground to starter helps there. Good ground to head helps spark. Good ground to body and frame help a lot too.

You dodged a bit of a bullet and this is relatively inexpensive work.


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[Ctknorr]

Open air tube. I almost forgot. What am I looking for?


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[Lumpy Grits]

Run the fuel return line above and to the outside of the intake manifold.
Are you say'n you have 2, PCV's?? You do have a breather on the valve cover-'rite'??
Trust me on the re-routing of the GND lead to the starter mounting bolt.
Mount that frame GND lead to the front axle snubber bracket. Don't trust the engine mounting bolts as they rust.
The open exhaust tube I'm talking about is the middle flange of the exhaust manifold. See the last picture in your post #38.
LG

 

[Ctknorr]

Run the fuel return line above and to the outside of the intake manifold.
Are you say'n you have 2, PCV's?? You do have a breather on the valve cover-'rite'??
Trust me on the re-routing of the GND lead to the starter mounting bolt.
Mount that frame GND lead to the front axle snubber bracket. Don't trust the engine mounting bolts as they rust.
The open exhaust tube I'm talking about is the middle flange of the exhaust manifold. See the last picture in your post #38.
LG

I totally missed this. Where should this be touted to?

CK



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[Lumpy Grits]

Not a clue where it goes. Maybe the EGR valve?????
Mine never had an airpump etc.
LG

 

[Ctknorr]

My old one didn't either. I'm guessing that should be closed up.


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[Lumpy Grits]

My old one didn't either. I'm guessing that should be closed up.


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Yes-It should be closed off-IMHO.
LG

 

[Ctknorr]

I think the PCV has a hose going back and is capped off tee isn't it?

Obviously this is a bit of a fire trap. I'd replace and re run all fuel lines and major power cables.

You can't have too many grounds. Good ground to starter helps there. Good ground to head helps spark. Good ground to body and frame help a lot too.

You dodged a bit of a bullet and this is relatively inexpensive work.


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007, LG and anyone else, would you mind sharing a picture of how your fuel lines run so I can have a good template?


CK


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[Lumpy Grits]

IF, I wasn't so 'puter DUM. I would be happy to.
Just run the fuel return line Like I said-Above the intake manifold and to the outside(towards the fender) and then down to the evap canister.
AGAIN-I also say to put the return port of your fuel filter at the 12 o'clock position for best fuel delivery to the carb.
LG

 

[007]

007, LG and anyone else, would you mind sharing a picture of how your fuel lines run so I can have a good template?


CK


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I have a V8...


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[Ctknorr]

IF, I wasn't so 'puter DUM. I would be happy to.

Just run the fuel return line Like I said-Above the intake manifold and to the outside(towards the fender) and then down to the evap canister.

AGAIN-I also say to put the return port of your fuel filter at the 12 o'clock position for best fuel delivery to the carb.

LG

So turning the filter 180 from its current position and moving out towards the gender would be good. From the pump to the filter. A route a little longer or higher away from engine heat?

Any concern from the pump being so hot? I'm gonna guess vapor locks don't/shouldn't happen at the pump.


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[Lumpy Grits]

You only need to turn the filter 90* at most(as per pic #4 in post #38), to position the smaller outboard return line fitting at the 12 o'clock location.
The fuel passing through the pump cools it down.
See post #3 for ideas.
https://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/vacuum-hose-problems-8028/

LG

 

[mtnwhlr]

This is what mine looks like and I have never had it vapor lock.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

The OEM location for the fuel filter was a known source of engine fires.
The exhaust heat will dry out the rubber hoses and then they crack and drip onto the exhaust manifold, and you have a fire. Had a friend loose his CJ to this. At one time, NTSB was looking into it.
I moved mine to the top of the valve cover.
LG

 

[Ctknorr]

This is what mine looks like and I have never had it vapor lock.

Thanks for the picture. It appears that my config is close to factory with the exception of the return line running inside the intake manifold.

Do both of your CJ's look this way or just the older one?

CK

 

[Lumpy Grits]

That pic in post #53, is what mine did look like.
Like I said-I moved mine after learning of the engine fire issues.
LG

 

[Lumpy Grits]

This is what mine looks like and I have never had it vapor lock.

I only have 2 words for you, in regards to the picture.
PRESSURE WASHER :laugh:

LG

 

[Ctknorr]

I only have 2 words for you. PRESSURE WASHER



LG

I'm definitely going to reroute mine. If sea level and 100 temps with the threat of burning CJ are possible outcome. I'm sliding them over.

New starter arrives tomorrow.

Guy at Parts house had know idea what I was talking about for bendable fuel line. He only knew about the bulk hose they sell.

So a couple more days and I'll have this fixed.

Thanks to all who have followed and offered advice.

Well come back to the t-case and hubs soon.

In the mean time, share with me your thoughts on good hubs for durability.

Initially light trail riding in Florida. But maybe moving to Nebraska one day which would tempt is with a trip to the four corners where I used to wheel.

Thanks guys!

CK


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[Lumpy Grits]

Best hubs made are from Mile Marker.
Way better made than the Warns.
My MM hubs have held up to about 20 yrs use, and I have a Detroit Locker in the front axle.
You can use copper tubing for bendable fuel line........

LG

 

[mtnwhlr]

I only have 2 words for you, in regards to the picture.
PRESSURE WASHER :laugh:

LG

This CJ has not seen any road time in 4yrs. Still not sure what I'm going to do with it.