Lockng Hubs First time jeeper question

[Hedgehog]

Is there any wiggle or sloppiness in your front drive shaft? Front drive shafts show spline wear far quicker than the rear. Believe it or not its because the front shaft isn't being used as often. Spline grease that doesn't move becomes grinding compound. Since your CJ generally won't see 4wd speeds above 20mph a sloppy front drive shaft can still be used safely.

4wd folks used to say that a 4wd system needs to see 20 miles of use every month. When I couldn't do that I would lock the front in for a while on the street, then unlock and engage the transfer case for a few miles. It was my thought that this would move the fluids around to keep everything fresh. Never seemed to hurt anything. ..... A couple months ago a fellow jeeper asked me why my front drive shaft was turning. It turned out the transfer case was engaged. I think one of the neighbor kids (good kids, but very active boys) bumped it into gear. With the twinsticks it doesn't take much movement to lock it in. Everything seems tight and running as well as ever.

 

[Ctknorr]

Is there any wiggle or sloppiness in your front drive shaft? Front drive shafts show spline wear far quicker than the rear. Believe it or not its because the front shaft isn't being used as often. Spline grease that doesn't move becomes grinding compound. Since your CJ generally won't see 4wd speeds above 20mph a sloppy front drive shaft can still be used safely.



4wd folks used to say that a 4wd system needs to see 20 miles of use every month. When I couldn't do that I would lock the front in for a while on the street, then unlock and engage the transfer case for a few miles. It was my thought that this would move the fluids around to keep everything fresh. Never seemed to hurt anything. ..... A couple months ago a fellow jeeper asked me why my front drive shaft was turning. It turned out the transfer case was engaged. I think one of the neighbor kids (good kids, but very active boys) bumped it into gear. With the twinsticks it doesn't take much movement to lock it in. Everything seems tight and running as well as ever.

I think I discovered a new problem.

Everything back in place on Saturday afternoon.

For fun I mounted my Go pro off the side of the jeep to see how the new install was holding up.

Video clearly shows the front shaft spinning.

I've shifted t-case to neutral and front shaft still spins.

Here is a link to the last video. I'm teaching my girl friend to drive a manual. So forgive some of the ruff starts and kills.

The vid clearly shows front shaft spinning all the time. 2wd high and neutral. Hubs in the 4x2 position.

Video link here: https://youtu.be/gICsundo8fs

Am I headed for a t-case rebuild?

CK


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[Lumpy Grits]

Can you turn the shaft by hand?
Not uncommon for the front shaft to turn some in 2WD.
Video link not working...
LG

 

[Ctknorr]

Can you turn the shaft by hand?

Not uncommon for the front shaft to turn some in 2WD.

Video link not working...

LG

Yes I can turn it by hand and all u-joints are tight.

https://youtu.be/gICsundo8fs

Went back to YouTube and it still wasn't published. Try now.

And thanks for checking.


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[Lumpy Grits]

Put a piece of white tape on the front and rear DS because it hard to see how fast they turn.

GET THAT MUFFLER FIXED ASAP! You have deadly fumes coming into the cab.
LG

 

[Ctknorr]

Put a piece of white tape on the front and rear DS because it hard to see how fast they turn.

GET THAT MUFFLER FIXED ASAP! You have deadly fumes coming into the cab.
LG

Fixing one thing at a time. Rear drive shaft tore that up. New muffler is next.

T-case is now dripping pretty good. No leak before this adventure.

Feeling like I'm gonna rebuild it next.

For a novice like me would it be safe to assume this will take a couple of days?




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[Lumpy Grits]

Where is the t'case leak'n from?
LG

 

[Ctknorr]

Where is the t'case leak'n from?

LG

Not sure yet possibly around the yoke.

But the plot just thickened. Dead on side of the road. Starter toasted and shorted out melting the ground cable covering.

Waiting on a tow now.

Life is full of adventure.

CK


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[Lumpy Grits]

Disco the POS(+) cable at the battery ASAP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
LG

 

[Ctknorr]

Disco the POS(+) cable at the battery ASAP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

LG

Done. Lol. Thanks dad. With tons of respect.


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[Hedgehog]

Sounds like your solenoid is bad. ..... if the solenoid is working properly there should be no power to the starter. A starter that doesn't disengage while the engine is running will destroy itself fairly quickly.

As Lumpy mentioned, a front drive shaft will turn when the case is disengaged. It's the movement of the oil & grease in the system. It rarely/never turns very quickly though.

It sounds like your driveshaft letting go did some damage on the equipment under your CJ. It might have damaged your T-case. With the possibility of damaged cases and bent shafts you might be better off looking for another T-case. Generally a Dana 20 is fairly inexpensive.

 

[Ctknorr]

Sounds like your solenoid is bad. ..... if the solenoid is working properly there should be no power to the starter. A starter that doesn't disengage while the engine is running will destroy itself fairly quickly.



As Lumpy mentioned, a front drive shaft will turn when the case is disengaged. It's the movement of the oil & grease in the system. It rarely/never turns very quickly though.



It sounds like your driveshaft letting go did some damage on the equipment under your CJ. It might have damaged your T-case. With the possibility of damaged cases and bent shafts you might be better off looking for another T-case. Generally a Dana 20 is fairly inexpensive.

So with this new leak. It may be better to swap in a rebuilt?

CK


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[Hedgehog]

Maybe - I know what I said, but first do what you can to diagnose the leak. You could end up chasing multiple problems and it might be less expensive to swap in another T-case.

 

[Ctknorr]

Sounds like your solenoid is bad. ..... if the solenoid is working properly there should be no power to the starter. A starter that doesn't disengage while the engine is running will destroy itself fairly

.

Solenoid is mounted on the fender well, correct?

That's where to positive goes from the battery.

The starter starters smoking while cranking.

Crank crank crank. Then the smoke came out of starter. It stopped cranking then negative cable super hot as I mentioned.

I'm gonna pull starter after lunch today. Can these be rebuilt like old Chevy?

And how can I test solenoid?

CK



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[Lumpy Grits]

Get a new starter and move the main GND lead from the engine block, to the top mounting bolt of the starter.
How old is the battery? If more than a couple of yrs old-Replace it also, with the highest CCA rating you can find.
LG

 

[Ctknorr]

Get a new starter and move the main GND lead from the engine block, to the top mounting bolt of the starter.

How old is the battery? If more than a couple of yrs old-Replace it also, with the highest CCA rating you can find.

LG

Dave, explain for me why the main ground would make a difference.

My battery is a 1000 cca and larger than the battery box. It's about a year old.

Should I swap the grounds?

Need input here.


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[Lumpy Grits]

My name is Gary
Moving the GND to the mounting bolt. Puts the current closer to the load, and less loss due to resistance. The starter motor, is the highest current draw on any vehicle.
What wire gauge are you using for the main battery leads now? I use custom 1/0 arc-welding cable for mine.
LG

 

[Ctknorr]

My name is Gary
Moving the GND to the mounting bolt. Puts the current closer to the load, and less loss due to resistance. The starter motor, is the highest current draw on any vehicle.
What wire gauge are you using for the main battery leads now? I use custom 1/0 arc-welding cable for mine.
LG

Gary. I just wanted to call you Dave. It seamed to work.

Ok that makes sense to me. For the ground. I haven't run to the parts store. The ground from battery to block is nearly 1/4" wide pretty hefty.

Here's a couple pictures of after.

And while we're way past the hub noise right now.

I think the reason jeep stopped was fuel line was. blazing hot. To hot before, at filter and past hose to touch Here is a few pictures of how the fuel line is routed after pump. Btw pump was also very hot. Conditions where about 30 miles into trip with temp around 98-99 deg.

Thanks again for all the help and feedback.

CK


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[Lumpy Grits]

You are dang lucky you didn't loose the Jeep to an engine fire!
Don't know what gauge wire that burned up lead is. Sure looks small to me.
The location of your fuel filter WILL cause a fire!
Move the filter away from the exhaust manifold. Get that return line out of the exhaust manifold, as that heat will 'bake' the hose and make it brittle.
Position the filter's return fitting at 12 o'clock, to reduce fuel starvation to the carb.
WHY-Is the PCV valve pluged off?
You also have an open air tube on the exhaust manifold-NOT GOOD.
Your ratchet strap is crushing the battery-That can damage the cells.
I do not see a GND strap from the engine to the frame. Is there one? You should have one.
Who's battery are you using that you say has 1K, CCA?
LG

 

[Ctknorr]

You are dang lucky you didn't loose the Jeep to an engine fire!
Don't know what gauge wire that burned up lead is. Sure looks small to me.
The location of your fuel filter WILL cause a fire!
Move the filter away from the exhaust manifold. Get that return line out of the exhaust manifold, as that heat will 'bake' the hose and make it brittle.
Position the filter's return fitting at 12 o'clock, to reduce fuel starvation to the carb.
WHY-Is the PCV valve pluged off?
You also have an open air tube on the exhaust manifold-NOT GOOD.
Your ratchet strap is crushing the battery-That can damage the cells.
I do not see a GND strap from the engine to the frame. Is there one? You should have one.
Who's battery are you using that you say has 1K, CCA?
LG

Gary, You keep making work for me. Lol.

Ground is on ds of block goes from block to motor mount bolt.

When I did the engine swap I put everything back as it was. So the fuel lines where routed this way. Not saying I liked it. Just as it was. Love your input. Told my gf I wanted to route the fuel line different because of the heat. So, how would you do this?

The pvc is a new one like oem, however old pvc I replaced only had the big hose going to base of carb. So I plugged to extra line. Where would you recommend routing it to?

Battery was also installed by po. Can't remember battery name but it says on the label 1000 cca. It's been very strong.

I'll look at it in a bit and let you know brand.


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