Lockng Hubs First time jeeper question

[Ctknorr]

Let me start with thanks to the two guys I know will offer some help/insight.

So my old fords had automatic 4wd pushbutton on the dash and no manual locking hubs.

Q1. Does locking the hubs mean thats the only way to get the front end to pull, or does that mean that actually locking them in makes it full time with no slip? Q2. Did i ask that correct?

Q3. What kinds of noises should I expect from the hubs and what would be a signal that i may have a problem?

Q4. Is there a best practices for when and or how to use?

I have a 74 CJ 5 inline six 4 speed with what I think is a Dana 20. Searching it out to confirm for sure.

CK

 

[gr8dain]

I am not an expert, but here is my response.

You will need to get out and turn the knobs on the hubs if you want the front wheels to pull at all (be in 4wd). If you do not, when you shift the transfer case lever, it will pit power to the front differential and will turn the axle, but the wheels will not be "locked" to the axle and will still be free to roll or not.

I only get out and lock mine when I know I need 4wd. Like when stuck in snow, or as I start out on a trail. My father spent time in Iceland and would lock his at the start of winter. That way, when he wanted 4wd, he only needed to shift the t-case lever. But that was a lot of winter driving. I don't have that situation. Does it hurt to leave the hubs locked and drive in 2wd? I don't know. I have heard arguments for both sides.

As for noise and wear, I have only had experiences with bearings going bad or getting loose. So I can't comment on the actual locking hubs having problems. But I am looking into upgraded locking hubs right now.

 

[PistolDave]

A1. On vehicles equipped with manual locking hubs, the hubs have to "locked" or "engaged in order for power to be transmitted to the front wheels. If the hubs are "unlocked" and the transfer case is in 4WD, the front driveline will spin, but no power will be transmitted to the wheels.

A2. I knew what you meant.

A3. Hubs in good condition should not really make noise, if there are grinding, popping, etc. noises coming from the hub area, I would assume some sort of problem.

A4. Depends on vehicle, terrain, driver preference, etc. The way I usually operate is to lock the hubs at the start of a trail. If I don't need to go more than about 30 mph I will leave them locked until I hit the pavement again. If I need to go higher speeds or longer distances such as from one trail to another or something, I will unlock them and put the t-case in 2WD. As far as I know it is okay to operate your transfer case in 2WD with the hubs locked, I just usually don't do it at speeds above 30 or so. I am sure other people may have different/better ideas on this, but I have never had any problems operating this way.

FWIW,
Dave

 

[007]

You've been given good advice...but to add...there is ZERO problem with running locked hubs in TWD. Quadratrac equipped Jeeps do this all their lives. What you will do in this situation is cost your self a nearly immeasurable amount of MPG due to increased resistance as the whole front driveline is being driven by the front wheels - but again we Quadratrac owners do this anyway.

What you do not want to do, is drive around with locked hubs in 4WD on pavement. Certain situations can bind the transfer case and in extreme situations, the weakest link will fail...whatever that is - usually a u-joint somewhere, but it could be worse. Quadratrac owners don't have this issue as our transfer case has Limited slip built-in to it to prevent this from happening (think of any AWD vehicle today). However, even Quadratrac's cannot be in full-time 4WD on pavement for the same reasons as you can't.

I have a Quardratrac, but if I didn't I'd most likely drive around with my hubs locked in regardless so I could just go to 4WD with the shift of a lever...but that's just me.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Do NOT shift into 4WD, if the front hubs are not locked.
If you have trouble shifting out of 4WD. STOP and back up in a straight line about 10' to take the bind off the driveline.
There should be NO noise when the hubs are engaged.
When was the last time you checked ALL oil/fluid levels?
Post pictures of your tranny and t'case. We the 'collective' can tell you what you have for sure.
LG

 

[Ctknorr]

Do NOT shift into 4WD, if the front hubs are not locked.

If you have trouble shifting out of 4WD. STOP and back up in a straight line about 10' to take the bind off the driveline.

There should be NO noise when the hubs are engaged.

When was the last time you checked ALL oil/fluid levels?

Post pictures of your tranny and t'case. We the 'collective' can tell you what you have for sure.

LG

T case pictures I have so far. She's a greasy mess. But piece by piece I get them cleaned up.

Not certain I can get picture of tranny. I'll crawl back under in a minute.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Ctknorr]

Btw. A week ago today she threw the rear shaft. That's why you see the cap sans needles and ujoint in the picture.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Ctknorr]

Transfer case is low on lube. Filling it up tonight. Transmission, front and rear end all ok. When I checked 600 miles back.

How often do you recommend checking the diffs? Neither end is wet or has the appearance of a leak.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Looks to be a '20' to me.
The Novak Guide to the Dana Spicer Model 20 Transfer Case

I ck my fluid levels every couple of months and before and after a Jeep trip.

WHY did yours spit the rear D/S out?
Replacing that yoke isn't a big deal with the 'rite' tools(gear puller and torque wrench).
LG

 

[Ctknorr]

Looks to be a '20' to me.

The Novak Guide to the Dana Spicer Model 20 Transfer Case



I ck my fluid levels every couple of months and before and after a Jeep trip.

LG

LG, that's what I thought I spent a bunch of yesterday afternoon reading Novak website and rebuild notes for the 20. Enough, so I'm no longer scared about taking it out if I need too to rebuild.

If I do that means I'll finally be getting a press too (grin)

We've only made it 600 miles with our jeep since we got it. First the engine knock then the rear drive shaft last week.

Now. You mentioned no noise at all from the hub. Today I had to take a quick trip to the store in the jeep. Hubs locked in (no rear shaft) and it sounded like slack. Hub or front wheel u-joint? Which would be more likely?

I pulled the lft looking for any zerks I might have missed two weeks back and didn't see any.

Are the wheel ujoints sealed?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Lumpy Grits]

No zerks on the axle u-joints. Check for play, they could be dry and will need replacing. Use Dana/Spicer and stay away from others.
Was the noise before or after you top'd the t'case off with oil?
LG

 

[Ctknorr]

Rear shaft? I have no idea.

I have a theory that when I greased all the zerks on the shaft and joints it lubed it enough to fall apart. The pieces I found where still lubed good.

But there is this very curios grease splatter that wasn't there before I lubed it up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Ctknorr]

No zerks on the axle u-joints. Check for play, they could be dry and will need replacing. Use Dana/Spicer and stay away from others.

Was the noise before or after you top'd the t'case off with oil?

LG

Noise Before. I'm waiting for my ride so we can get lube.

I can't get any pictures (good ones) of the tranny. There is a huge skid plate in the way.

It's a four speed. Looks like it has same bolt pattern as a Chevy. Is that possible? When I was doing the engine swap the bell housing looked like the same as a Chevy. That's what makes me think so.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Your 'theory' about the D/S lube'n is wrong!
That splatter is normal after lube'n the joints and slip spline.
I would stop driving it till you get it fixed.
YMMV,
LG

 

[Ctknorr]

Yup that's what I figured. It's sitting till the transfer case is full.

Rear shaft is back in place and seems good. Front shaft is fine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Lumpy Grits]

I sure hope you replaced that yoke.
It's 'toast' and not safe to use.
LG

 

[Ctknorr]

It's on order. Thanks for looking out for me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Hope you ordered Dana-Spicer and not some china junk brand like Omix etc.
Hint: Use gasket sealer on the splines to keep oil from seeping out.
Good luck!
LG

 

[buzzardB]

Hope you ordered Dana-Spicer and not some china junk brand like Omix etc.
Hint: Use gasket sealer on the splines to keep oil from seeping out.
Good luck!
LG

L/G please explain about not going into 4wd with hubs unlocked? Is that why we might convert to a "two stick shifter" on the transfer case so we could select low 2wd? I do that every time I take my CJ5 out (about twice a week) because it's parked whare I must climb a steep rough concrete driveway to go to town. 2wd goes up ok when dry but it's better in low range. If the drive is wet and I have a load I lock the hubs and use 4wd low. If it's dry I I use 4wd low with out locking the hubs.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Lock'n the hubs before 4WD engagement, is done so the t'case's insides are all turning at the same speed. Good way to bust the t'case otherwise........
Never engage low-range while moving.
If the hubs ain't locked-There's no 'drive' to the wheels.
LG