Build Thread 1980 CJ7 rehab project..

[smbundy13]

I got an '80 CJ7 for some soccer lessons and am in the process of building it up a little bit.. it has been sitting for at least a year probably a little more but not terribly long.

a little history. I have known the owner of this jeep my entire life. it has been a deer lease vehicle for a long time.. but, it is in great shape considering that. it was last registered in '92.

my plan for this is to get it running and driving and, eventually, lift it a little bit. not doing any major off-roading.. just mostly a nice weather vehicle.

I have done the following to it in the last 2 weeks:
- dropped the tank (prob getting a new tank since the contents of this one was really rusty water.. and the bottom is getting thin due to rust)
- removed some (2 sets) trailer wiring harness from when this thing was flat towed to the deer lease
- done a little misc cleanup on it, removing old steps and some various odds and ends.

here are some questions.

any recommendations for a fuel tank? should I go steel or poly? i figured steel would be ok since the the last one lasted 30 years! I am going to get a some generic fuel line to replace the various soft lines going from tank to hardline.. and from tank to Rollover and the other valve in my fenderwell.. do they all use the same size? any tips on getting the old hoses off those without destroying them?

thinking about doing the team rush on this since I will change plugs and dist anyways. sound like a good plan?

going to get rid of the air pump and some of the other vac hoses that this doesnt need.. since TX isnt an emissions state for this old of a vehicle. Can I just get an air filter setup for the carb and ditch the stock air cleaner? really only for aesthetics to clean up engine bay.

I bumped the ignition and some liquid came out of this module.. should I just replace it like for like or is there an upgrade?


I removed a bracket from above the alt where I think the A/C compressor was. I removed it because it was in the way of the #1 spark plug. I think I am going to notch the piece for the the clearance that I need but here is the bracket. I am not sure what it is for..
that is the way it is mounted in the jeep.. here is a picture of it before I removed it.


I have some wiring questions.. I dont have any wires that have chewed through (a problem for a vehicle kept in a barn) but some have been chewed on.. specifically on the solenoid.. how should I address this? since its old wire, I am not sure how it would take me cutting it and soldering on a new length of wire.. any ideas?


any help is much appreciated.

will post other pics in the next reply

 

[Torxhead]

I would have to suggest a steel tank, but everyone has their opinion. Fuel lines are either 5/16" or 1/4", if you have to damage them at removal, it is time to replace. The Team Rush upgrade worked great for me, although I think the advance spring changeover should be left alone. The oem fresh air intake works great, but I did put a screw to hold open that vacuum operated flapper valve though. If you have water coming out of the ignition control module, I would suggest replacing it, although a good one isn't cheap. An upgrade would be an MSD, which I hear works great. Doing your own wiring work is a lot cheaper and better than a new harness, again in my opinion.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Fuel feed line from the tank to carb is 5/16". Only the return line from the fuel filter to the evap canister and back are 1/4".
Before you do any mess'n with the wiring. Disco the POS(+)battery cable from the battery.
LG

 

[smbundy13]

Thanks for the info. Will post th other pictures when I get back to my computer. In halls opinion, would it be more economical to upgrade the module or replace with factory?

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Thanks for the info. Will post th other pictures when I get back to my computer. In halls opinion, would it be more economical to upgrade the module or replace with factory?

Replace with top of the line one from NAPA. The others are China junk. Carry a spare.
LG

 

[smbundy13]

Replace with top of the line one from NAPA. The others are China junk. Carry a spare.
LG

will do thanks for the info... is this the ignition module?

also, here are some more pictures of the Jeep.
as she sat in my barn, before the deal was struck for trade.


after we got it into my shop... a travel distance of a whopping 30 feet.


Engine bay


SR4 trans


I think it will be amazing what this thing looks like when I get a water hose to it.

stay tuned

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Yes-Take it with you to NAPA to be sure the plugs match.
Before you do a hose-down. Remove the battery, water is a conductor.
LG

 

[smbundy13]

Replace with top of the line one from NAPA. The others are China junk. Carry a spare.
LG

will do thanks for the info... is this the ignition module?

also, here are some more pictures of the Jeep.
as she sat in my barn, before the deal was struck for trade.


after we got it into my shop... a travel distance of a whopping 30 feet.


Engine bay


SR4 trans


I think it will be amazing what this thing looks like when I get a water hose to it.

stay tuned

 

[smbundy13]

Yes-Take it with you to NAPA to be sure the plugs match.
Before you do a hose-down. Remove the battery, water is a conductor.
LG

Thanks LG for the help.

on another note, I am trying to decide whether or not to get a painless harness and rewire the jeep. I have tried to find where someone did a write up on it but have been unsuccessful.

this, among other things is why I am thinking about rewiring the jeep..



in this picture you will notice a couple of things..
the extra fuel gauge in the radio cut out? check..
seemingly stock digital clock where a factory tach would be? check..
wires hanging below speedo assembly? check..

I am really planning on getting this thing running and driving well (if possible with current harness), then tackle harness install.. what do yall think about that?

edit, one more thing, can anyone identify my T-case from the shift.. it is bent which (from my memory) a D300 shifter is not.. any ideas? again, per the VIN its an '80

 

[Petescj]

1980 was the first year of the Dana 300 transfer case. Nice find. I just bought a CJ7 off a farm in VA. I'm currently going over all the mechanical. Mine was running already though. Good luck and Welcome.

 

[smbundy13]

1980 was the first year of the Dana 300 transfer case. Nice find. I just bought a CJ7 off a farm in VA. I'm currently going over all the mechanical. Mine was running already though. Good luck and Welcome.

since my gas tank is out, I think it would be easy to crawl under there to look at T-Case.. any way to identify the T-Case based on case?

thanks

 

[Lumpy Grits]

GOOGLE to the rescue.

Jeep Transfer Case Identification Guide - 4x4Review Off Road Magazine

LG

 

[Hedgehog]

If your output shaft housing is cast aluminum you have a D300, if it's not it's likely a Dana 20.

 

[smbundy13]

GOOGLE to the rescue.

Jeep Transfer Case Identification Guide - 4x4Review Off Road Magazine

LG

damn you and your google knowledge.

 

[Knighttime85]

damn you and your google knowledge.

His google game is strong young padawan.

 

[shum8]

"A google Master he is" (said in best Yoda voice.)

 

[Knighttime85]

since my gas tank is out, I think it would be easy to crawl under there to look at T-Case.. any way to identify the T-Case based on case?

thanks

Well is it the the 300? looking forward to watching the transformation!

 

[Petescj]

Google Schmoogle , never had to leave this site:

https://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f105/transfer-cases-12108/

 

[gert]

cool Jeep look fwd to seeing your progress

 

[smbundy13]

Well is it the the 300? looking forward to watching the transformation!

havent been able to get out to shop.. with kids bedtimes and working longer hours for tax season its tough to walk out there..