Welder upgrade question

Welder upgrade question

Hedgehog

Always Off-Roading Jeeper
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Tucson/Marana Arizona
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-1975 Jeep CJ5, 360 V8, Headers, Duel Exhaust,T15 transmission, D-20 Transfer case, Twin Stick Conversion, Warn 8274 Winch
-1951 Willys Wagon, 4 cylinder, "F" head, little rust, very close to stock
My current welder is a Lincoln 140, a 110v machine. It runs well but has an occasional fan problem where the fan rumbles and cycles. It's never not worked, but is questionable. All I've run through it is flux core wire, but would like to move up to using gas. It's capable of it, but I've been thinking since you need to change the polarity of your leads to use Argon/Co2 gas, why not get another machine set up specifically for MIG gas operation.

On Craigslist there is a Lincoln 180 for a decent price. This one is a 220v machine, while not being a do all, end all machine it does have quite a bit more power. The 220 set up is no problem. So, I'd end up with 3 welders. A stick Thermal Arc for the BIG stuff, a Lincoln 180 MIG set up for Argon/Co2 gas and a Lincoln 140 set up for flux core wire. From what I can gather MIG welding with gas is much cleaner and a little cooler than flux core making welding thinner metals cleaner and easier.

Does my logic make sense and has anyone used a Lincoln 180HD? Opinions welcome.
 
With the desert dust you and I both live with. Try this, can you get into the compartment where the fan is and blow it out with an air-hose?
You will be shocked at just how much dirt can be trapped inside an electric motor. Then maybe add a drop or two of oil to the armature shaft of the fan motor.
FWIW: I keep my welder covered when not in use. ;)
LG
 
buy the 180 and clean the 140 up and sell it. Yes shielded gas welds muuuuccch better no clean up work like flux core. The extra amperage will allow you to weld the heavier gauge metal easily and most of the bigger welders like the 180 have better low amperage control for thin gauge metal. I dont think you will go back to the flux core after you weld with shielded gas :chug: then the next thing you will want to try is TIG :drool: its an art welding with it
 
My Thermal Arc will run a TIG gun. I've looked into them a little. Was a bit intimidated when they started talking about cooling systems evidently in the gun itself. Those things are expensive. You are right though, it's only a matter of time. I have always enjoyed working with metal.

Another thing I'd like to make is a forge, saw some perfect material at Industrial Metal Supply to make a really nice one. Plans are available for the forge design and the nozzles. Have you looked at the price of a decent anvil lately? Back home every farm had one or two. I used the heck out of the one we had. Now the good ones are ~$700.

Bought the 180HD, gauges and a HF welder cart for $375. Everything is in very good condition. Considering the welder goes for ~$650 I think it was a very good purchase.

Now that I've got a replacement there is no reason not to open it up and check out the fan. It might be just dirty. A very good handy man I know said that the fans are easy to find and inexpensive to replace. It would be good to repair it, clean it up and move her down the road. Unfortunately I really like the 140, it did a lot of work for me.

gert - In researching the 180HD they did mention that the arc is cleaner for thin metal. You can't really trust just anyone so having someone that I semi know backing that up is reassuring.
 
My Thermal Arc will run a TIG gun. I've looked into them a little. Was a bit intimidated when they started talking about cooling systems evidently in the gun itself. Those things are expensive. You are right though, it's only a matter of time. I have always enjoyed working with metal.

Another thing I'd like to make is a forge, saw some perfect material at Industrial Metal Supply to make a really nice one. Plans are available for the forge design and the nozzles. Have you looked at the price of a decent anvil lately? Back home every farm had one or two. I used the heck out of the one we had. Now the good ones are ~$700.

Bought the 180HD, gauges and a HF welder cart for $375. Everything is in very good condition. Considering the welder goes for ~$650 I think it was a very good purchase.

Now that I've got a replacement there is no reason not to open it up and check out the fan. It might be just dirty. A very good handy man I know said that the fans are easy to find and inexpensive to replace. It would be good to repair it, clean it up and move her down the road. Unfortunately I really like the 140, it did a lot of work for me.

gert - In researching the 180HD they did mention that the arc is cleaner for thin metal. You can't really trust just anyone so having someone that I semi know backing that up is reassuring.


You will love it. I had a Hobart 125 that I upgraded to MIG before I went to Afghanistan and sold it with the intent of getting a 180 amp MIG when I got home, but as usual plans changed and I have not got that welder yet precisely because it is more than $650 I use a Miller 225 at work and a Miller TIG/ARC I weld alot of Stainless with the TIG, no cooler for the torch though. :chug:
 
Miller 211
 
Miller 211


Rather cryptic response. Do you recommend a Miller 211 for TIG? Do you have a Miller 211? Do you work with a Miller 211? Are you suggesting that I should get a Miller 211? Is a Lincoln a piece of junk and a Miller 211 is superior?

I've never used a Miller welder, but have heard nothing but good things about them. Lincolns have always given me decent service, the home models are affordable (the Miller 211 is almost twice the money of the Lincoln 180HD) and parts are easy to find. Miller, not so much. Always considered a Miller to be more of a pro's tool.
 
HH-Do you know any professional welders? If so, ask'em what brand they would choose and why.
Where I live. The overwhelming choice is Miller. That said, my Linky, Weld-Pak 100 has never let me down in almost 20 years of use.
LG
 
HH-Do you know any professional welders? If so, ask'em what brand they would choose and why.
Where I live. The overwhelming choice is Miller. That said, my Linky, Weld-Pak 100 has never let me down in almost 20 years of use.
LG
:agree:
I'm AWS certified, and the Miller 211 is a nice home/shop machine.
 
Hey HH,

Red, blue, yellow and grey welders all have their fans, just like pro ball teams. You may want to consider what brands the retail store supports that you're going to be buying supplies from. It's nice to have their support and input if you ever need them (warranty work, tech support, etc.).

All brands have their pros and cons, when comparing them. Personally, I use Lincoln (red), mainly because the supply shop I use is a Lincoln dealer. I used Miller's and the old school Hobarts (grey) in the '80s working in a fab shop. The truck that brought gases to us every week sold a lot of Miller equipment.

Esab is begining to get popular again and may be worth a look, depending on availability in your area.

You can't go wrong with any of the popular, reputable brands (IMHO).
 
X2 on what hdgapeach said, Miller, Lincoln, and esab are all good welders the Lincoln 180 will do you good for years to come.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Guys - I am well aware of the following Miller has with professional welders. Fact is I said it a couple times right here in this thread. No question about their quality and you can count Hobart right there among the rest. The 180 is sitting right here in my shop. I dropped by a welding supply shop today and bought a bottle of 75/25 gas. After switching the leads and loading the welder up with wire the first test beads were run on scrap material. I am officially impressed. The puddle is far easier to see and control. About the only thing I didn't like and I'm sure its easy enough to get accustomed to, is the size of the gas shroud. I'm having a little trouble seeing around it.

Now I want to remove the roll cage/bar/metal thing on my jeep and redo all the welds making them pretty.

Learned a valuable thing today. The little gas bottles you get from H-F are empty. Why sell them at all since you would turn the nice new bottle in to get a full one. Nowhere on the bottle or in their add does it say that the bottle is empty. I felt extremely foolish, but H-F took it back without any hassle.
 
I cannot tell you how pissed off I was when I spent all that money to buy a brand new bottle from tractor supply to turn around and give it away to get a full bottle I usually pull the bead and angle the tip so I can see where I'm welding because that shroud does get in the way


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
All of those type bottles are shipped empty to avoid HAZ-MAT charges and the permit fees for storage. IF the store could even get the permits.
Good luck with the welder? Post up some pictures if you can.
LG
 
Not surprised, but they should somehow make it clear that the bottles are empty. Also those little guys aren't much of a good deal. They are $100, the much bigger bottle I got cost less than $150 full of gas. Refills are about $37 .... really you turn in the bottle for a full one.

:) pictures? Sure, you've seen it before .... Red .... two dials on the front .... bottle in the back. Or are you talking bout a picture of the weld bead? Oh my, you know how showing about any weld bead will bring out the welding wolves with no end to the kindly given advice about how to improve the bead is.
 
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Something to get used to. After getting accustomed to using 0.30 or 0.35 flux core wire in the 140 I am amazed at how much more power you need with 0.25 gas shielded wire. Where the flux core used an "A" setting the smaller wire needs a "C" with the feed way up there to get the penetration I expect. It definitely is a case where the puddle is easier to manage, but its not as hot. I've also yet to find that nice bacon cooking crackle, it's more like a controlled short. ...... a learning curve.
 
:) pictures? Sure, you've seen it before .... Red .... two dials on the front .... bottle in the back. Or are you talking bout a picture of the weld bead? Oh my, you know how showing about any weld bead will bring out the welding wolves with no end to the kindly given advice about how to improve the bead is.
Just the other day you said you never get invited to any neighborhood BBQ........I can understand why. :)
 
Just the other day you said you never get invited to any neighborhood BBQ........I can understand why. :)

:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::poke:

Picture of the weld, was what I should have said. :driving:

LG
 
Thanks Posi - You are a little late, I actually expected something like that from you on the thread you quoted. Yeah I'm not a popular personality, my face has been rubbed in it many times so feel free to pile on, you aren't alone. :)

Lumpy - Before weld pictures I need to work with this welder for a while. I wrote what I did because I've seen it over and over again on the welding sites. No matter what someone who isn't a "Certified" welder shows a weld, the professionals pile on ... to hot ... to cold ... to fast ... and the best one, "all your welds are :dung: and you shouldn't be showing them on a welding site." That last one was someone trying to show how various welding rods produce a weld. The guy was trying to help and he got endless grief for it. I absolutely know my welds are :dung:, but I'm trying and my welds are far better than they once were. My father was a certified welder so I know what a good weld looks like.
 
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I bought a Klutch 140 from Northern tool. All the features at 1/2 the price.

FREE SHIPPING — Klutch MIG 140SI Flux-Core/MIG Welder — 115V, 140 Amp, Inverter-Powered | MIG Flux Core Welders| Northern Tool + Equipment

I have been very impressed with it. If I still welded for a living I would have given more thought to name brands but for something that is "just for fun" I would stack it up with any bodies 115/140 amp machine. It will even carry a spool gun if I want.

I find the 2# spools are a PITA and the c-25 tank is way too small but it is actually rather hard to make a ugly weld. Of course I would not use it for anything heavier than 10 ga. I also have a Miller 225 HF that will GTAW and SMAW for any thing heavier.

All that said, I think you made an excellent choice and had a great bit of luck to find one used for a good price.

I would suggest to anyone reading this that it is an excellent habit to use a wiper pad on the wire before it enters the feed rollers/wire conduit, in my experience the most common problems occur when the inside of the conduit become restricted with dust carried in with the wire and even though these machines do a good job or enclosing the wire and feed rollers , for the cost of a piece of tack rag and a spring clip it is good insurance.
 

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