Replacing body mount bushings

[tireman74]

You can get non-stainless Grade 5 at the hardware store probably. I get ARP Stainless through www.totallystainless.com However, they aren't cheap.

If you buy a tube of Marine grease (useful for light bubs sockets too) and smear it onto the capture nut and along the length of the bolt, you'll probably outlast the Jeep, and likely never have a rusted bolt again at about a quarter of the stainless cost.

Went back by hardware store on my way home, exchanged previous bolts for non-stainless grade 5, used anti-seize instead of marine grease but got it done tonight. Happy with job but I think I have a problem with one of the back mounts. It did not have a bolt in it and when I put the new bolt in and tightened it down it would get to a certain point and pop and would be loose. I tightened it to that point but I think the po put stupid strengthen to it and stripped the nut out. Going to watch it and figure out a plan to get to it and replace it one day. At least I have 8 good tight bolts on it though.

 

[Only in a Jeep CJ]

For a temporary fix on that, remove bolt, insert a small length of bare wire into the hole (MIG wire works great) and insert the bolt and it will tighten fine. Otherwise, you may lose your bolt and bottom bushing.

 

[mtnwhlr]

For a temporary fix on that, remove bolt, insert a small length of bare wire into the hole (MIG wire works great) and insert the bolt and it will tighten fine. Otherwise, you may lose your bolt and bottom bushing.

Our you can even use some fishing line.

 

[Orion21500]

How did you access the front bushing mount under the grill? I get the bottom nuts off but there is a second nut, when I turn it, the whole bolt spins and I cannot see how to brace it without removing the radiator and trying to access it from the backside. Any suggestions?

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Sounds like the nut-plate is broken lose.
You'll have to pull the radiator to get to the nut plate.
LG

 

[Orion21500]

Thanks LG. I was afraid of that. Oh well . I had to cut the sheet metal in the back to get to another plate because that broke free as well. Not a big deal to use flat washers and lock washer instead of dealing with tack welding the plate back in, is it?

Thanks again.

 

[Only in a Jeep CJ]

You don't have to go to the back or remove the radiator. Gently lift the sheetmetal that is on the front center of the grill above the bottom mount. You'll most likely see whats left of the nut cage that has rusted away. Slide in a pry bar or pickle fork and wedge it tight against the flat side of the nut. Heat may be needed as well. Impact gun on head of bolt underneath helps too. When you bend the sheetmetal back down, slightly fold in the forward corners and it will stay locked in place.

 

[AZ75CJ5]

Any suggestion on part#. Im going to be doing the same thing soon when I redo my suspension. Thanks

 

[tarry99]

For all you folks that have early Jeeps, the best mounting system I have seen and used is from the YJ era 87-96.......two rubber mounts per location one on top of the mount btw the body and the other at the bolt end.........much better ride & easier on both bodies!

 

[AZ75CJ5]

For all you folks that have early Jeeps, the best mounting system I have seen and used is from the YJ era 87-96.......two rubber mounts per location one on top of the mount btw the body and the other at the bolt end.........much better ride & easier on both bodies!

Havent even thought of looking at those, but looks like may be worth the extra money. I'll take the smoothest ride I can get, my body can only take so much beating now that I am getting older, not to mention she is getting older too. haha..

 

[tarry99]

Havent even thought of looking at those, but looks like may be worth the extra money. I'll take the smoothest ride I can get, my body can only take so much beating now that I am getting older, not to mention she is getting older too. haha..

They are a little larger OD so make sure they will fit your OEM mounts especially the bottom one inside the flange.......the change over takes a little more effort and is not a direct bolt in...........I normally just buy the individual parts from Energy cause the bolts supplied in the kits will be wrong for your older application.

As you notice they do hang down and if your into rock climbing they will get hung up.........most folks that do climb have shields over the exposed bolt that hangs down............just stuff you have to do to take advantage of a better mount system.

 

[1986cj7]

Only if they look bad.
The nuts are captive.
Use copper anti-seize on the threads.
Start soak'n the nuts and bolt NOW--
LG

I know this is an old post but I have a few that the captured nut seems to be spinning inside. I guess I will have to cut a hole in the frame to access the nut?

 

[tireman74]

I know this is an old post but I have a few that the captured nut seems to be spinning inside. I guess I will have to cut a hole in the frame to access the nut?

Yep just large enough to get a wrench or pliers in.