Replacing body mount bushings

[tireman74]

It's time to move on to the next project on the never ending list of things to do to a CJ.
Looking for advice on body mounts bushings, best kind to go back with and best way to change them.

 

[Munypit]

I just used the prothane kit ordered from Quadratech. Job took less than an hour. I used a 1/2 inch impact to remove all the old bolts, then used my floor jack and a piece of 4x4 to lift 1 side at a time. Don't tighten any bolts until you have all the bolts started all the way around the jeep. ( when picking up the body 1 side at a time the body tens to shift from side to side)

 

[tireman74]

I know its personal preference on whether to go with rubber or poly, so tell me why you went with poly?

 

[Munypit]

rubber deteriorates (sp.) quickly when it is contacted by oil and grease. Being a cj it is going to leak.

 

[tireman74]

Have you had both? Can you tell a difference in the ride?

 

[Munypit]

No I have not had both. Just my experience with rubber in an industrial environment, Mobile hydraulic equipment that gets a leak will desroy a set of rubber tires in no time. If you touch it it feels to be a tar like substance that will get on everything.

 

[tireman74]

Thanks for the advice

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Rubber was OEM.
I went with the poly 20+ yrs ago, and very happy.
When your done-Spray'em heavy with silicon spray.
LG

 

[tireman74]

Should I replace the nuts and bolts or just use the existing ones? Also do either of you know what to torque the bolts down to? I can't find anything in the fsm that tells me.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Only if they look bad.
The nuts are captive.
Use copper anti-seize on the threads.
Start soak'n the nuts and bolt NOW--
LG

 

[tireman74]

Started PB Sunday afternoon when I decided it was going to be the next project

 

[Techlight]

I torqued mine to 30ft with blue locktite... It seems the body mounts go either really smoothly or really badly! Good luck with it.

http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f7/body-lift-torque-cj7-cant-find-21996/

 

[Lumpy Grits]

I snugged the bolts some but wanted the body to flex off road.
LG

 

[Only in a Jeep CJ]

I prefer the YJ / TJ smaller mounts. They are a perfect fit for the CJ and are way better quality than the CJ oem rubber or aftermarket rubber mounts. The cupped upper washer / sleeve combo holds the rubber and makes it far less likely to split and crack like the oem ones. Re use the CJ bolts with anti seize. Medium tight as the sleeve and upper and lower washers are fixed, the rubber does the flexing.

Why rubber?
For me, I use poly bushings on the suspension, swaybar, and transmission mount. This is for better alignment, control, sway, road manners etc. Poly on the trans as it resists any oil leaks there.
I use rubber on the engine as its smoother and less vibrations and rubber on the body for again, smoother road feel and vibrations AND the amount of flex between the body and the frame.

You need to remove all the bolts on one side and the grill bolt. On the other side loosen them where they are hanging down, but still threaded in a little. Use a 2 to 3 foot long 2x4 under the rocker and only lift as much as needed, watch the finger!

 

[tireman74]

Well I went with the Daystar poly, so that will be my project for next week.
Thanks for the advice everyone

 

[gutthans]

I use stainless bolts from www.totally stainless.com They have complete kits for Jeep plus all manner of individual grade 8 - 10 stainless bolt products.

Unfortunately, the factory captured nuts tend to rust or break loose and can be a nightmare for body bushing replacement. I remove all steel factory bolts, coat the nut and the new bolts with marine grease and reinstall stainless only...when I replace the bushing set. That way, it's done...and you'll never have to sweat it again as long as you own the jeep. Just my .02cents

 

[tireman74]

Took all the bolts out last night and went to my local hardware store at lunch today and picked up some stainless bolts to match what came out since po had random bolts. I will put one side back in tonight and at least get one side done tonight.
But I have one question, do I run a 2x4 length wise(front to back) under the drivers side rocker and use a 4x4 under 2x4 to lift body? In my mind that kind of distributes the weight some what evenly.

 

[gutthans]

Took all the bolts out last night and went to my local hardware store at lunch today and picked up some stainless bolts to match what came out since po had random bolts. I will put one side back in tonight and at least get one side done tonight.
But I have one question, do I run a 2x4 length wise(front to back) under the drivers side rocker and use a 4x4 under 2x4 to lift body? In my mind that kind of distributes the weight some what evenly.

I believe that the stainless sold at the hardware store is GRADE 2, NOT automotive Grade 5 bolts. Check the cap to see if there are any hash marks. Grade 5 has three; Grade 2 will have a triangle or nothing. You may want to think about that...Yes, I know someone is going to say they are only body bolts...but they can stretch and pop. Just sayin'

 

[tireman74]

I believe that the stainless sold at the hardware store is GRADE 2, NOT automotive Grade 5 bolts. Check the cap to see if there are any hash marks. Grade 5 has three; Grade 2 will have a triangle or nothing. You may want to think about that...Yes, I know someone is going to say they are only body bolts...but they can stretch and pop. Just sayin'

I guess you are correct, these only have some numbers and 3 letters on them. Where can a person get Grade 5 bolts?

 

[gutthans]

You can get non-stainless Grade 5 at the hardware store probably. I get ARP Stainless through www.totallystainless.com However, they aren't cheap.

If you buy a tube of Marine grease (useful for light bubs sockets too) and smear it onto the capture nut and along the length of the bolt, you'll probably outlast the Jeep, and likely never have a rusted bolt again at about a quarter of the stainless cost.