HEI replacement sparkplug wires

[Tectron]

Re: 80 CJ7 front driveline

Basically, measure from the center to center of the U joint. This is the measurement you will need to order a driveshaft from a place like Tom Woods

Thanks for the reply on that Bass, Do I need to know the travel? jeep has Im guessing right now has about a 3-4 inch suspension lift on it.

 

[cglax6]

Re: 80 CJ7 front driveline

Thanks for the reply on that Bass, Do I need to know the travel? jeep has Im guessing right now has about a 3-4 inch suspension lift on it.

If you give them the yoke-to-yoke measurement, and how much lift you have, and what CJ, that's all you'll need.

Just as a precaution, measure the size yokes you have just in case the PO did something wonky.

Tom Woods make great shafts and they're pretty quick, too. It's gearing up season, so don't be surprised if there's a wait.

You may want to check that rear shaft too.

 

[Tectron]

Re: 80 CJ7 front driveline

If you give them the yoke-to-yoke measurement, and how much lift you have, and what CJ, that's all you'll need.

Just as a precaution, measure the size yokes you have just in case the PO did something wonky.

Tom Woods make great shafts and they're pretty quick, too. It's gearing up season, so don't be surprised if there's a wait.

You may want to check that rear shaft too.

Thanks for the info cjlax6,

I will measure the yokes, they do look stock, Also noticed that the transfer case has the sye kit installed in it, explains the driveshaft that's in it, looked into that change a while ago and that's a lot of work/expense already done.

I did notice that the pinion seal is leaking probably due to the wobble on the front driveshaft, so I'll be changing that while I'm at it and if there are any pointers to get that seal done i'm all for it, hopefully I don't have to buy a special puller.

Since Ill be doing the Pinion seal on that front pumpkin do I need to mark the yoke position to keep it in phase with the rear yoke?

 

[cglax6]

Re: 80 CJ7 front driveline

Thanks for the info cjlax6,

I will measure the yokes, they do look stock, Also noticed that the transfer case has the sye kit installed in it, explains the driveshaft that's in it, looked into that change a while ago and that's a lot of work/expense already done.

I did notice that the pinion seal is leaking probably due to the wobble on the front driveshaft, so I'll be changing that while I'm at it and if there are any pointers to get that seal done i'm all for it, hopefully I don't have to buy a special puller.

Youtube is your friend. Watch some videos because it's not always a cut and dried process.

You can rent a puller from any parts store out there to get the yoke off. I've always had to heat the nut holding it on to get it to budge. A good impact wrench is your friend...if not a long breaker bar. If you use a breaker bar, a big pipe wrench will help keep you from spinning the yoke. IIRC, torque spec is around 180-210 lb-ft, but please verify before you put it back together.

If it were me, I'd order a new nut to replace the old. Murray Tools also makes a good split die thread chaser in case you mess up the threads taking the nut off. They're pricey, but waaaaay cheaper than replacing innards of your diff/transfer case. I screwed up the threads on my rear diff pinion about a year ago and used one to repair the threads. The $35 split thread chaser saved me from having to replace my R&P in the rear.

Get yourself a seal puller. It'll make your life easier getting those seals out. You don't want to damage the housing by hammering a flathead into the seal to try and get it out. Seal pullers are like $10.

 

[Tectron]

Re: 80 CJ7 front driveline

Youtube is your friend. Watch some videos because it's not always a cut and dried process.

You can rent a puller from any parts store out there to get the yoke off. I've always had to heat the nut holding it on to get it to budge. A good impact wrench is your friend...if not a long breaker bar. If you use a breaker bar, a big pipe wrench will help keep you from spinning the yoke. IIRC, torque spec is around 180-210 lb-ft, but please verify before you put it back together.

If it were me, I'd order a new nut to replace the old. Murray Tools also makes a good split die thread chaser in case you mess up the threads taking the nut off. They're pricey, but waaaaay cheaper than replacing innards of your diff/transfer case. I screwed up the threads on my rear diff pinion about a year ago and used one to repair the threads. The $35 split thread chaser saved me from having to replace my R&P in the rear.

Get yourself a seal puller. It'll make your life easier getting those seals out. You don't want to damage the housing by hammering a flathead into the seal to try and get it out. Seal pullers are like $10.

Thanks again, I'll check torque specs for the nut and get a new one. I do have a seal puller just not sure on the puller for the yoke, but renting one is a good idea. I've got a 3/4 inch socket set that might have a socket to fit that nut and i'm sure I can come up with something to hold the yoke in place without putting stress on the "innards" or breaking the the yoke, also have up to 3/4 inch drive impact tools. I used to do a lot of heavy equipment repair of my own.

 

[RiverandSand]

Re: 80 CJ7 front driveline

Basically, measure from the center to center of the U joint. This is the measurement you will need to order a driveshaft from a place like Tom Woods

A couple other driveline shops are Driveshafts Direct and Tattons drivelines.
I am considering Driveshafts Direct as I need a rear shaft because of the 4" lift.