Gears and axles

[HackFabrication]

I think I have enough in the budget...

From a guy that put way too much money into the Dana 30 / AMC20: Let your budget build and save for a Dana 44/D60 rear. Or Ford 9" axles.

I don't wheel my Jeep (right now), but it's a dark rabbit hole that you decend when upgrading both those axles. I put Moser 1 pc axles in the rear, 4.56 gears, ARB locker. The Dana 30 got ARB and 4.56, and a complete rebuild.

 

[mriplaybass]

So I am heading back to Kansas this weekend and found an ad for a Dana 44 out of a 86 CJ. Guy wants $250. I have heard things about this paticular axle that parts are not readily available that the axles themselves were custom?

Can you tell me if this is a decent deal and I should jump on it or what I should look for.

I can't tell you for sure which axle is which as far as when they changed, but I am pretty sure that your 77 has a narrow track axle and the 86 is a wide track. When we changed out the AMC20 for a Dana 44 in our 79 CJ7, we used the axle out of a 72 CJ5. The only thing I had to do to physically make the axle fit was to move the spring perches out to accommodate the wider rear section of the frame on the 79. I am not sure if your 77 also has the wider rear frame, but I'm almost positive that you still need the narrow track axles.

 

[mtnwhlr]

I can't tell you for sure which axle is which as far as when they changed, but I am pretty sure that your 77 has a narrow track axle and the 86 is a wide track. When we changed out the AMC20 for a Dana 44 in our 79 CJ7, we used the axle out of a 72 CJ5. The only thing I had to do to physically make the axle fit was to move the spring perches out to accommodate the wider rear section of the frame on the 79. I am not sure if your 77 also has the wider rear frame, but I'm almost positive that you still need the narrow track axles.

He's is a '84 CJ7 so it has the wide trac axle so the '86 is the only direct bolt in.

 

[callerys]

Ya its a wide trac 84. Just trying to figure out if there was something different with those from 86.

 

[mriplaybass]

Oops! My bad! I don't know where I got that the OP had a 77. Time to get stronger glasses!

 

[Lumpy Grits]

You will most likly have to change the R&P to match your Jeep.
It should just bolt into that '84.
LG

 

[Hedgehog]

Bass- Somehow I had '77 as well. Where I got that I don't know either.

 

[callerys]

This is it here. Not sure if it's a good deal or not.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

WHY, is it torn apart?
That alone would worry me.
LG

 

[jp360cj]

WHY, is it torn apart?
That alone would worry me.
LG

It'd worry me too. And I can't tell for sure, but it looks like the bearing caps are laying on the ground also. I would make sure they're marked for which side and orientation.

 

[Hedgehog]

In a way being apart might be a good thing. It would be easy to inspect ALL the parts that are impossible to see when together. I'd inspect the axles for straightness, the bearing surfaces, the differential housing. All the good stuff. Hope the input shaft hasn't been removed or that the shim pack is still in place. There is no base line to start with when setting up the carrier.

 

[GS1200]

I am at the same point. Dana 30 front, AMC20 back, running 273:1 at the moment with 33" tires. my top speed at the moment is about 65 mph flat out. I dont wheel much, more of a disaster escape vehicle really, but would like to get more top speed and be able to go up a hill on a road trip faster then 40 mph.

I had decided on going to 373:1 r&p front and rear, detroit lsd in the rear and leaving the front open diff, and putting in the one piece axles in the rear.

For a mostly street, any reason to go to 410 or more?

258, 4 speed

 

[Lumpy Grits]

33's would work very well with 4:10 R&P
PLZ look into a LSD for the front. Really makes a difference.
LG

 

[Hedgehog]

2.73's are street gears and you should be able to go faster than 65. 3.73's are streetable leaning a little towards off road.

 

[Torxhead]

For me, with a 4 speed tranny, 4.10s are a bit low for a long distance drive on the freeway. Great for local street cruising and the trail.

 

[mtnwhlr]

2.73's are street gears and you should be able to go faster than 65.

2.73's and 33" tires = slug. I think with 33's you need at least 3.54's

 

[Lumpy Grits]

At 65mph w/33's, you are turning 2700 rpm. You have nut'n to worry about.
https://www.ringpinion.com/calculators/Calc_RPM.aspx

LG

 

[Torxhead]

Using a calculator like that is what led me to chose a 4.10 gear ratio. With a 33" tire on the ground and 28 p.s.i., for decent tire wear and a good ride, the rpms are a bit more to the point where for me is too much engine noise. As I recall, it was around 3200 rpm, which is what you should be getting per the calculator in 4th gear. I also have a calibrated speedo.

 

[Hedgehog]

I read his main complaint is the fact that he can only go 65 mph on the highway in a street CJ. With 2.73' 65 should be no problem. Suppose he might not have enough power to go faster, but that shouldn't be the case. It seems like an I-6 WITH a T-5 (until the T-5 blows up) should be able to push 33s faster that 65 mph. Something is wrong. ...... unless, that is 65 without compensating for the bigger wheels which would be well over 70 mph.

 

[GS1200]

Transmission is a T4, not 5. Speedo indicates a bouncy 50-55 flat out, but I am keeping up with traffic that averages 65. Tach is inop, along with the temp and gas gauges.

Sorry it took so long to get back to this, been dealing with hurricane clean up. Which bills have put off any drive train work for a while, of course.

I read his main complaint is the fact that he can only go 65 mph on the highway in a street CJ. With 2.73' 65 should be no problem. Suppose he might not have enough power to go faster, but that shouldn't be the case. It seems like an I-6 WITH a T-5 (until the T-5 blows up) should be able to push 33s faster that 65 mph. Something is wrong. ...... unless, that is 65 without compensating for the bigger wheels which would be well over 70 mph.