Gears and axles

Gears and axles

callerys

Jeeper
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Location
Castle Rock, CO
Vehicle(s)
1984 CJ-7, 258 I6, T5
So I now have the funds to change the gearing and do some lockers. I have the Dana 30 up front and AMC20 in the back. Both gears are currently 3.31.

I want to go to 4.10 with the auburn ECTED electric lockers along with 1 piece axles in the back. Any recommended brands or kits for the axles? I have seen some from G2 etc.
 
What size tires?
I run 4:88 R&P with 33" BFG/AT's, on 8" wide, 15" rims.
Moser for the axles.
Might also look at a 4:1 kit for the t'case.
LG
 
4:56-4:88 would be a good R&P choice IMHO.
Your 1st gear becomes a 'granny', and you don't need it on the street most of the time.
With the snow you get. Why not look at an LSD for the front and rear like a Powder Lock.
Good outfit to deal with.
https://www.ringpinion.com/

LG
 
I know that with the Eaton Elocker, 3.73 was where the carriers changed.
 
I want to go to 4.10 with the auburn ECTED electric lockers along with 1 piece axles in the back. Any recommended brands or kits for the axles? I have seen some from G2 etc.
Remember, auburn ECTED electric is a Limited slip and it has lower torque limits then a locker or open diff.

Nothing wrong with G2, paid $225 free shipping for a set.
 
Remember, auburn ECTED electric is a Limited slip and it has lower torque limits then a locker or open diff.

Nothing wrong with G2, paid $225 free shipping for a set.

Best I can tell from reading is that the Auburn is yes a LSD but then a selectable locker when engaged. Not sure yet if I am just going to rebuild the 258 or go with a 5.3. Can you tell me where to find the torque limits as I certainly don't want that to be a limiting factor.

Maybe ARB is the better choice? I just didn't want to mess with the compressor.
 
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Best I can tell from reading is that the Auburn is yes a LSD but then a selectable locker when engaged.

Can you tell me where to find the torque limits as I certainly don't want that to be a limiting factor.

I wouldn't use the word "selectable" in describing a LSD. There is a preload spring that gives a thrust force pressing the clutch pack together locking both wheels and passing that info alone to them. They've had a lot of problems with Auburn LSD early on but they have improved since that time. You would need to use an additive as well.

You could ask the manufacturer what their torque rating is but I doubt they would give you a straight answer. I would suggest nailing down a tire size and figure your torque at the rear wheel and pass that info alone to them as well. Also, I posted a video with plenty of locker info on this site if you do a search, may even be a sticky.
 
Hav'n installed over 75+ ARB's, I will disagree strongly.
In fact, it got to a point I refused to install them because air seal issues.
I have a background in R&P work- Want to know what I run in my Jeep? Front and rear Detroit Lockers. They are the KISS of true lockers.
LG
 
Lumpy Grits;245347 Want to know what I run in my Jeep? Front and rear Detroit Lockers. They are the KISS of true lockers. LG[/QUOTE said:
And you live in the desert. They would suck in in the snow and ice on the streets. A selectable locker is the best way to go. Jeep used them in the Rubi for a reason.
 
Agree about the snow/ice deal and a 'real' locker(I was born and raised in Colorado:D). A Detroit Locker can even be 'entertaining' in the rain. ;)

That's why I would go with a good LSD, like a Power-Loc front and rear.
If I were to move back to Co, I would install'em PDQ in my '7'.
LG
 
Do I need a new carrier to go from 3.31 to 4.10 or lower?

Carrier split for the Dana 30 is 3.54/3.73 & the AMC20 is 2.72/3.08 so you wouldn't need a new carrier for the rear. But since you plan to install a locker, you won't need a new open carrier. Just get the locker for the correct gear ratio.
 
Most of the folks I have talked said doing anything with an AMC20 is a waste and I should swap to Dana 44. I'm not doing any hardcore wheeling or crawling. At most an intermediate jeep trail.
 
Few really want to embrace the idea of swapping out their AMC20 for a Dana 44. Since it can be more or less a direct swap there is no real increased work involved. The only thing I would suggest is doing some research in your local area. You might find that 44's are easy to find at a reasonable price or darned near impossible. Then move forward from there.

If you listen to many that offer advice here on this forum you are lead to believe an AMC20 isn't strong enough to drive across the road without spinning an axle. I had one in my '80 CJ5. it might have been ignorance, but it never failed me and I drove it everywhere from highway use to grinding through rocks in a dried up river bed. But that was with the stock differential. Dropping in a locker is an entirely different stress load.
 
I have had both and in my experience they very similar in strength. If you put 1 piece shafts in the AMC20, then IMO the biggest downfall of the axle is the tubes. While I've never personally seen one with bent tubes, I have seen 1 spin the tubes. The AMC20 actually has a bigger ring gear (8 7/8" vs 8.5" IIRC) and larger pinion gear.

I broke spider gears in both the AMC20 and Dana 44 on the street (360 and 33s). The only reason I switched to the Dana 44 after the AMC20 was I got a matching NT Dana 44/Dana 30 combo with 3.73 dirt cheap. Both axles were over 30 years old and I believe the failures were largely due to worn spider gears. Also, the only Dana 44 that would be a direct bolt in would be from an 86 CJ7, and the ones I've seen for sale are stupid expensive ($800-$1000) and would usually need to be regeared.
 
So I am heading back to Kansas this weekend and found an ad for a Dana 44 out of a 86 CJ. Guy wants $250. I have heard things about this paticular axle that parts are not readily available that the axles themselves were custom?

Can you tell me if this is a decent deal and I should jump on it or what I should look for.
 

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