Electrical Dash electrical questions...Speedometer, Blower and Courtesy Lights

Electrical Dash electrical questions...Speedometer, Blower and Courtesy Lights
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UncleMike

Jeeper
Posts
36
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5
Location
Shrewsbury, MA, USA
Vehicle(s)
1979 Jeep CJ-7, 5L
Happy Thanksgiving Jeepers...had three questions regarding my dash/electrical rebuild:

1979 CJ7 - which speedometer is supposed to go in this? Mine has the 4x4 light and brake light. It doesn't work, so might have to replace after i test everything. When i search for 1979, all the parts sites pull up the one with the oil and temp lights, not the 4x4 or brake light. Which one should i have? I haven't yet traced all the wires, but since mine had been fiddled with by PO, wanted to see what SHOULD be in here. Trying to go as stock/original as possible.

Second question....rebuilding heater box and upgrading to blazer blower using tips i found here and a great rebuild thread elsewhere. Question is...will stock resistor work? Mine was rusted out, but found a replacement to match OE. Any other electrical issues related to hte upgrade?

Third...both foot well lights are shot. I would like to replace with the LED ones that look like stock like these. But...can't seem to find the connector anywhere...any ideas on what to search for? Seems to be the same light that fits a lot of Dodge trucks/vans and jeeps.

Thanks!
 
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Your Jeep info says 1979 CJ7, 5L but no more info (might want to add engine, difs trans / transfer case etc so we can help later on) so i'm going to assume you have a 304 if it's stock.
Are you following this thread for the Blazer upgrade? -->> https://jeep-cj.com/community/threads/blazer-motor-upgrade.46990/

  1. By your speedo description I'm guessing you have a turbo400 trans and a QuadraTrac transfer case. If so that is the correct speedo.
  2. Stock resistor is ok.
  3. Those are not stock so they were added by the PO. Maybe they were never hooked / wired up?
 
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My experience with repop spedometers is unhappy. 4 failed to be calibrated correctly and the 5th was smashed during shipping. My solution was SpeedHut GPS based and now I never have to worry about calibration for any reason. Its is not cheap but looks like a CJ speedometer and some tech skill required during set up. I cant help you there as i had a shop do that job.:cj7:
 
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CJ said:
Your Jeep info says 1979 CJ7, 5L but no more info (might want to add engine, difs trans / transfer case etc so we can help later on) so i'm going to assume you have a 304 if it's stock.
Are you following this thread for the Blazer upgrade? -->> https://jeep-cj.com/community/threads/blazer-motor-upgrade.46990/

  1. By your speedo description I'm guessing you have a turbo400 trans and a QuadraTrac transfer case. If so that is the correct speedo.
  2. Stock resistor is ok.
  3. Those are not stock so they were added by the PO. Maybe they were never hooked / wired up?
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply. I have not yet identified diffs and T/C, but it is the 3spd. It is the 304 AMC. Is that enough to figure out what the speedo should have been? I do already have oil and temp gauges, so would rather have this one with quadratec and brake light anyway. How can i tell if this is the original or an aftermarket? Speedo works, but no lights and neither fuel nor water temp work...of course, ground was definitely an issue (2 posts rusted and two not even secured), so i plan to go through the tests and i understand that they can be rebuilt.

I acquired in last few months and just trying now to address the issues that the Peoples Republic of Massachusetts will fail on the inspection (lights, horn, etc...), but got into the dash (which led to heater, etc...) as a result of bad grounds.

I did find the blazer motor thread helpful, thanks! I found this thread on another blog that has an incredible write up on the heater that answers a few of the questions on the cj thread. Only thing i didn't find was the resistor question, so good to know that is ok. Was able to find all cables and most parts, so rebuilding both boxes in next week or so.
 
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NP435 said:
My experience with repop spedometers is unhappy. 4 failed to be calibrated correctly and the 5th was smashed during shipping. My solution was SpeedHut GPS based and now I never have to worry about calibration for any reason. Its is not cheap but looks like a CJ speedometer and some tech skill required during set up. I cant help you there as i had a shop do that job.:cj7:
Click to expand...
I hadn't seen that speedhut unit before...thanks for sharing. Definitely worth considering, as i am hearing horror stories on the crown and ada units. Any issues pairing with stock fuel and temp senders?
 
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SpeedHut or Dakota Digital is the way to go for sure. All digital, bright LED lights, programmable where needed, and in the case of Dakota Digital, can be interfaced to an ECM for a fuel injected engine swap. Look quite stock, unless you opt for some optional add-ons like a built-in tack readout, etc. Love mine. Here's your connector for those courtesy lamps:

connector.jpg

- or -

Lamps with connectors on eBay

lamps.jpg
 
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What cables did you get ? MTS are good quality.
 
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Belizean said:
What cables did you get ? MTS are good quality.
Click to expand...
The dash cables are Crown, and not sure about the intermediates...1 off ebay, 1 off an online parts vendor. I am learning the valuable lesson of checking this forum first before buying parts, as the "easy" google route seems to always lead to omix-ada or crown, and a little digging will get you to better stuff. Upside is they are cheap, and i'll get practice replacing them in the future!
 
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UncleMike said:
The dash cables are Crown, and not sure about the intermediates...1 off ebay, 1 off an online parts vendor. I am learning the valuable lesson of checking this forum first before buying parts, as the "easy" google route seems to always lead to omix-ada or crown, and a little digging will get you to better stuff. Upside is they are cheap, and i'll get practice replacing them in the future!
Click to expand...
As luck would have it, the secondary cables are both MTS...so at least those are the hard ones to access...
 
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You will feel the difference and notice where they connect at the dashboard.
 
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I was only referring to the heater box cables.
 
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I did the blazer motor upgrade last year, it's a straight one for one switch with no extra wiring. I did have to adjust the hole in the firewall though.

Sent from my SM-A528B using Tapatalk
 
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UncleMike said:
I hadn't seen that speedhut unit before...thanks for sharing. Definitely worth considering, as i am hearing horror stories on the crown and ada units. Any issues pairing with stock fuel and temp senders?
Click to expand...
The fuel sender will want all new wires if you want accuracy and if I recall a , new temp sender and wire supplied by Speed Hut, the stories on crown and omix ada speedos are true. Junk.
 
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NP435 said:
The fuel sender will want all new wires if you want accuracy and if I recall a , new temp sender and wire supplied by Speed Hut, the stories on crown and omix ada speedos are true. Junk.
Click to expand...
Yep. The Speedhut or the Dakota both have their own temp/oil sensors and will require their supplied wiring be run and used. The stock fuel sender can be used, but they recommend an extra wire for the Speedhut unit (chassis ground can be used). The Dakota uses the existing single stock sender wire. The Speedhut can use a GPS sender for the speedo. The Dakota has a sensor that screws into the x-fer case where the stock cable was and then has wiring to the gauges. Don't know on the Speedhut, but the Dakota also has a BIM interface if you have an ECU with a CAN bus port.
 
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Scout1067 said:
I did the blazer motor upgrade last year, it's a straight one for one switch with no extra wiring. I did have to adjust the hole in the firewall though.

Sent from my SM-A528B using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Great upgrade for sure. And an easy mod if you're working on the air box assembly anyway. I purchased my motor on Amazon using "VDO PM102" for about $30. You do need to make sure the shaft is 1 3/16" to the end of the threads. There is another motor for the Chevy Blazer that has a longer shaft, PM105 with a 1 13/16" shaft, that doesn't fit. Sometimes wrong one in the box...
 
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TSB8C said:
Great upgrade for sure. And an easy mod if you're working on the air box assembly anyway. I purchased my motor on Amazon using "VDO PM102" for about $30. You do need to make sure the shaft is 1 3/16" to the end of the threads. There is another motor for the Chevy Blazer that has a longer shaft, PM105 with a 1 13/16" shaft, that doesn't fit. Sometimes wrong one in the bo
Scout1067 said:
I did the blazer motor upgrade last year, it's a straight one for one switch with no extra wiring. I did have to adjust the hole in the firewall though.

Sent from my SM-A528B using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
I'm jazzed about the blazer upgrade. Now i have all new MTS cables coming, and McMaster-Carr materials for all the gaskets, which i will custom cut. If i get ambitious, I'll post pics and part numbers, but largely most of pieces are either on here, or hunt/peck at Ace. Looking to add a soft-top (have a hard-top with no doors) so i am hoping the extra heat will make this thing comfortable.
Click to expand...
 
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NP435 said:
The fuel sender will want all new wires if you want accuracy and if I recall a , new temp sender and wire supplied by Speed Hut, the stories on crown and omix ada speedos are true. Junk.
Click to expand...
I see the gauge had lights for 4x4, hi-beam, and brake...i assume there are relatively straightforward mods to make all this line up properly? Really digging what i am seeing on the speedhut gauge.
 
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