Build Thread 78 CJ-5 project

[oldguy]

Thanks, if you look back to a post from 3-11-11 (I think) you'll see two double tube mounts for the front of the bar and some tube mounts that go under the rear wheel wells that are welded to the frame. The roll bar bolts to these with 8 - 7/16" grade 8 bolts. The cage is home made. Thicker pipe!

 

[dalenelson]

Thanks, that helps out alot. Mine will have to be custom bent or multiple angles cut- my frame seems skinnier than yours so I will have to come down from the rollbar and in towards the frame- not a straight shot down.

 

[oldguy]

Thanks, that helps out alot. Mine will have to be custom bent or multiple angles cut- my frame seems skinnier than yours so I will have to come down from the rollbar and in towards the frame- not a straight shot down.

The frame I made is 2 inches narrower than stock. If you take a close look at the tube supports for the front and rear of the roll cage you will notice that they angle in to the frame also. I'd suggest using 1.5 inch square tubing, 1/8 inch thick. It's rather stout and will hold up to a rollover (experience talking). I'd really recommend connecting the roll bar to the frame reguardless of the type of tub you have. In a rollover, even at slow speeds the roll bar can punch through the tub. Safety first!!!

Got a bit of garage time between yard stuff. With the slight body lift and rearward position of the engine, trans etc.. I ran into shifter boot problems so -- I cut a hole

and made a cover plate

the red thing is the line lock (emergency brake).
Hopefully I can start some fiberglass repair on the grill/radiator support and fenders in the next couple of days. The tub isn't to bad but I got a couple of spots that need some glass mat layed and bolt holes plugged. Then bed liner and paint.

 

[oldguy]

Damn, forgot the rear seat brackets and storage box clippy thingy. Got to do that before I start the fiberglass work. I decided to cut a couple of holes in the rear floor to access the electric fuel pump and top of the fuel tank. Makes emergency repairs easier when on the trail.

Electric fuel pump, the studs at the ends of the pump are for the filter and pressure regulator.

rear seat/storage box clips

with seat in


front bolted down (I'll make t-handle bolts for these)

now for paint. I was able to start on the fiberglass - sort of. I still have not figured out what this was for

but I'm going to remove it and fix the hole right. It looks like glass mat was draped over the hole and resined. ?????
along with about a 3 inch hole in the rear of the tub that was filled with bondo. ????

Anyway they are cleaned out and ready for glass mat.

Got a few days before I'm off to Saint Louis for a daughter / son-in-law visit. Can't wait for the warmth!!

On a side note. Took a 100 mile 12 hour 4-wheeler ride yesterday with a neighbor up through some really great mud run trails. If any of ya'll are from here in the UP the Clowery and Mulligan truck trails are prime - bring a come-a-long, a few chains, hip boots and something cold to drink. I can't wait to hit em with the CJ.

 

[oldguy]

Got it all patched and cleaned up (there are two additional layers of glass mat around the rear access holes)


and the box liner is in and waiting to dry


Rear cover plate

I'll start putting it back together when I get back from St. Louis.

 

[CjDan]

By the looks of your pictures and everything, it looks like you are building a tank. This is awesome, seems like this thing is super tough and is a tank that cant be destroyed with all the welding your doing and all custom stuff, this is a freat rebuild so far, cant wait to see the final product.

 

[oldguy]

Thanks Dan. Got started on the body. Found cracks where I'd expected , and some where I didn't. If you got a glass CJ body and do a lot of brush riding get familiar with these

A little step by step for all ya'll, for what it's worth
clean up the surface where the glass mats going

slap the resin on followed by the mat (make sure its bigger then the affected area your fixing) and more resin, make sure the white glass fibers disappear. A second mat a bit smaller will strengthen the area. It's actually easier than patching steel.


Close up of the edge of the repair

I laid another layer of glass around the edges of the hood,

the lip of the fenders,


the rounds corners of the grill support and the top slots of the grill


-- in other words, the weak areas of the glass body.
Hopefully I'll get it primed in the next couple of days then a trip downstate and paint the first weekend of June. If all goes as planned.

Any one interested who lives close to Ishpeming (Marquette) Michigan I got a set of inside the frame headers for a CJ you can have, a power steering (dual pully) pump and brackets and a set of seat brackets. Yes you can have -- free!! I'm heading down state to Tawas (by way of West Branch) this Tuesday the 31st if that helps, they will fit in the trunk of the car and I'll bring them that far.

Oldguy

 

[72rtchallenger]

love the build, went thru the whole post,,gave some better insight when I get started on mine,,but not near what you did,,again excellent job,cant wait till see it finished..



Terry

 

[oldguy]

Primed

 

[oldguy]

Sorry about that, hit the wrong key.

Primed


Painted




Now it'll cure for a couple of days and I'll block sand and buff then on to the assembly, wiring, fuel, brakes ....

 

[AK4wheel]

Awesome job That looks Great !!!!!!!

 

[mountain poppa]

Oldguy, what an amazing build! Congratulations! Do all of you guys in MI have such incredible skill sets?

 

[oldguy]

Thanks AK & Poppa,

Instead of sanding and polishing I thought I'd get it together and running (not driving) before I worry about the finish. so --
Brakes - done (I hope)

fuel system to engine - done


electrical HOLY !!! I knew it was bad but the ppo, thats previous-pevious owner created a nightmare.



but after a few hours I got it cleaned up and the wires needed labeled and the ones not needed removed.

Now to run the internal grounds needed for the fiberglass body and re-tape the harness. The weather looks rainy or a few days so I hope to hear it run by next weekend -- thats if a few key parts show up.

 

[oldguy]

Anyone out there got a picture of the fuse block?? The lettering is gone and most of the fuses are broken . I've repaired the broken spades so it can be plugged together (the ppo had drilled a hole in the firewall and run splice wires through it without the use of the fuses . I can trace them down but a picture would sure make it easier.
Thanks Dave

 

[billyocup]

Dave - Attached is a photo of the fuse block out of my 75. I'm assuming the 75 & 78 are close to the same, so I hope it helps. Also is a pic of the fuse block that came with my Painless harness. I'm not as brave as you are

The build is really looking good - Bill

 

[oldguy]

Thanks for the pics Bill, they really do help. How's the Painless system?? The PPO had a small one rigged into the engine compartment for the electric fan, fuel pump and a radio that even the totally deaf could hear. Darn thing had a cable running to the amp bigger than the starter cable. Probably why the alt was shot. Again thanks Dave

 

[billyocup]

Dave - Glad I could help. Haven't really got into the wiring yet. Hope to hang the front to rear harness on the frame this weekend. For $400 though it's got to be a lot better than the rat's nest that was on it. Bill

 

[oldguy]

Back at it -- finally!! Had some problems with the brakes, everything was new except the master cylinder (which was new when I parked it) and guess what -- yup the master cylinder was bad, got a new one, that was bad so here is #3

so far so good.. got the dash wireing done and the dash in

I had to extend a few wires through the body plug. I figure since I want it as water tight as possible thats as good a place to run them as any. Besides I want to keep the wires as central as possible.

tilt column in and roll cage bolted back down

I started to install the grill and radiator and guess what -- thats right, modification 33.2A.

I kind of expected this though since it is a slighly bigger radiator. The pic doesn't show it real well but it sticks out an inch lower than stock.
.
I hope to here it run this weekend - not move, just run.

 

[oldguy]

I was asked by pm about what I'd do for heat protection since the exhaust manifolds are so close to the tub. I installed heat shields. This is kinda what was done to Big block Corvettes. I used 16 guage sheet metal covered with heat shield material from Jegg's. It's good to 1100 F. There is about 3/4 inch between the tub and shield for air flow and 1 inch between the exhaust and the shield. Should work -- I hope.

 

[oldguy]

Damn brakes are still !! New rear cylinders, front calipers, master cylinder, lines, pads, shoes, springs only things not new are the proportioning valve and line lock. If I pump them fast 5 or 6 times they pump up good - hold pressure standing on the pedal and no leaks. I've adjusted the rears and no help - I even adjusted the rears until they are locked and still nothing. I've vaccum bleed a gallon of fluid through the system.. Got any suggestions??

Any way I'm down to finishing the wiring, installing the fuel pressure regulator and the last bit of fuel line from the regulator to the carb and it can be started! A couple of small things, filling fluids greasing lights etc. and I'll drive it - brakes or no brakes.