Build Thread 78 CJ-5 project

[oldguy]

Progress on the axles. Ball joints done. I love the press and air compressor!

Front axle joints went the way of the ball joints - torch. If you buy greaseable joints I'd think you should grease them?? or am I wrong. (the powdery stuff is the rollers)

I should get a few BTU's in the wood boiler with the empties

and DONE.

I had some parts for the rear comming in today so I thought, why not reseal the steering box while waiting

ohhhh, shiny

and on the front axel. Again I missed boat when buying stock

all done except for the brakes, I'll mount the axle first.


Hopefully I'll get them slung back on the frame tomorrow and start the shock and swaybar mounts.

 

[Kane]

What an amazing build build so far. I like to fabricate as well but attacking a new frame like that is incredible. Great job

 

[oldguy]

Thanks Kane,

So many parts on order and so few deliveries!! With the lack of parts I took some time today to get the rear brakes together. The parking brake has been discontinued on this model, I use a line-loc like I used on the Camaro when I raced. It doesn't fill with mud and rust like brake cables, also one thing less to catch in the mud holes. This led to one more hole to plug in the backing plate.


Wish there was a way to make the whole thing water tight. Hopefully I see a truck tomorrow.

 

[Stormrider]

That's some great work Old Guy! Your Jeep is coming along quite nicely! Are you going to do some body work and paint next?

Louie.

 

[oldguy]

Thanks Louie,

I'll paint it but won't be to picky. It will spend it's life in and out of the brush, mud holes, two tracks, railroad grades ..... I was thinking flat white with flat black accents. That way not to much body work is needed. Well the shocks came in so I got the brackets fabricated and in today. First two pics are front, next two are rear




with the shocks on. Notice the offsets, they should give clearence when the system flexes. Also I made the mounts so all the shocks are the same, Gas magnums with 12 inches of travel. A bit overkill but what the hey.



Hope to get the swaybar mounted tomorrow and then red oxide all the new iron. Then black rustolium - by brush, it's thicker that way.

Dave

 

[Petescj]

I wish you were my slightly older brother.

 

[oldguy]

Company in the garage would be nice Pete. Since my son moved I'm on mmy own out there.

I had to modify the front shock mounts. After taking a closer look I think they sit the shocks to close to the frame. (1st) I moved the attaching point on the spring plate so now I know they will clear the frame when flexed and also angle twards the frame and back which is the spring travel when moving. (2nd)



I got the swat bar mounted but will make quick disconnect links when the drivetrain is in and body is mounted. That way the links will equalize any uneveness in the suspension. I was able to tuck it up under the steering box. The mounts are bolted in so they can be removed to axcess the box if need be.


I "HAD" to add a couple more gussets to the frame joining points and body mounts. I know me and if I don't do it now I will before I mount the tub so...


I tack welded 1/4 inch bolts to several - or many - places on the inner frame to attach brake and fuel lines to. They look long but I use insulated clamps and bolt them down then cut the bolts off to the depth of the nut. If you notice the clamp will sit tight to the bolt head leaving space between the frame and line so mud and can be washed off saving the lines from rust. I'm to cheap to buy stainless.

Well it's done and red oxide is on all the new iron.

Rustolium tomorrow!! And hopefull some parts.

 

[oldguy]

Well, rustolium today and hopefull parts tomorrow??

 

[rammbo]

can you give me any advise on welding the front perches on in the right location to get the correct degree angle of the front dana

 

[oldguy]

Rammbo, I got a little true level that I use in woodworking to get the saws at 90 degrees. Put the diff on jackstands and set the level on the floor under the diff and press the set button. It assumes the floor as level and reads everything else based on that. Rotate the yoke until the flat side is up and set the level on that (it's magnetic) which is pretty close to parallel with the pinion. Rotate the axel to read level and strap it down. Then use the level to set the perches at what you want 5 to 12 degrees down, which runs the housing up, and you'll have no problems, more than that and you "may" start to have lube problems at the pinion bearing. I've built mud runners at 45 degrees and had no problems but then again they are short run wagons. Hope this helps.

Got the fuel tank in the mount, the steering stabilizer and sway bar on so basically the frame is done until I get the engine, trans and transfercase ready.






Hopefully next time you see this it'll have the drivetrain mounted.

 

[oldguy]

Drive train is pretty much ready to go back in. Engine ended up .03 under in bearings and .05 over in pistons. Not bad for a 33 year old. All resealed and ready to go. Trans and transfercase needed only seals, these were rebuilt by the po so I was plesently surprised -- only some seals and ready to go.






Hope to get it reset in the frame tomorrow and then to lines.

 

[oldguy]

Back in the Garage yesterday (photobucket was down last night) after a few day break. I was having a "Pete" experience with the Heep. Last Thursday started off with this

NEW out of the box - broke at about five lbs - followed by this

supposed to have been REBUILT but when I set it on the bench fluid leaks, no pours out of the front bearing and seal. followed by this

The darn perches were moved by the gods of the "Jeeps are cursed realm" which I wouldn't have minded if they were canted in, which is what I wanted but noooooo they were canted out by about 3 inched (still can't figure out how I missed that one unless "the gods" did it) so I removed the axel cut the perches and fixed that. As a side note, Rammbo, since I had to cut the perches again I thought I'd post a couple of pics for you. I set the axel on stands with the pinion close to level (check the yoke)

I rotate the perches about 15 to 20 degrees, and again some people think it's to much, I've never had any problems but I use my Jeeps in the woods and they spend so much time up, down, sideways and ocassionally on their sides that the oild bath problem isn't a problem .. ie. they arn't primarily pavement dwellers. When welding I make sure the tube is clean, clean, clean and stich weld to keep the heat down.

Once that was done I went to reinstall and guess what -- the darn vent tube was in the way

moved that

put it all back together, hooked it up to the over head crane to check syspension flex again and guess what .. your right "the gods again" the tires hit the shock mounts and rear body mounts (didn't before) so I fixed that problem to


Oh and as a kicker the front drive shaft needed to be extended 2 inches which I new when I set the frame but the spline and both yokes needed to be replaced also, I'm not sure how it didn't break before the splines had about a quarter thickness left and the rear yoke bent pressing in a u-joint. Got that back from getting balanced yesterday. So it's now back to where I started LAST THURSDAY. I do hope today goes better!!

 

[oldguy]

Yup, today was better. Got the front brake line brackets welded in - the brake lines run up to the proportioning valve, front and rear - fuel lines run up to where the filter "may" go - axle vent tubes run




fabricated a throttle bracket


got the power steering pump together and mounted, modified two of the mounting brackets for the alternator so it lines up to the crank pully, carb on, distributor in and most everything that's not black painted black - gotta love rustolium.


Seems like the curse is lifted for now. Next the proportioning valve, clutch linkage and then on to the body.

 

[oldguy]

Spent a few days in Rochester MN enjoying grandparenthood. Not much can keep me from the garage, but she can.

Today I was able to get the bumper brackets set (I'll finish up the tube bumpers when the tub is on)


and modified the clutch brackets to fit with the relocated engine


Then I was on to the proportioning valve. I wanted to set the exhaust manifolds to check for clearence when guess what -- the gods are back!!! The drivers side exit flange clips the frame rail by about 1/4 inch, didn't before!!
I'll have to extend the lower portion of the frame and notch the top to clear the pipe.

But one thing I've learned on this project is that when building a frame, not reinforcing it, you can expect to continually modify as you go. Builds patience I guess. Back at it tomorrow.

 

[oldguy]

Got it cut and the lower piece in
fishplated

painted, again!

and we got clearance

pass side, no problems (yet)

thought I'd mount the valve behind the shock tower, it's up and out of the mud that way.

bud time --

 

[oldguy]

Trying to get the seats ready for mounting. The passenger seat was pretty straight forward, four mounting points in the corners - a bit bigger than stock but not bad.

Drivers seat however had a bunch of under it. It tilted, lifted, angled forward and back, basically had a bunch of stuff that was in the way so I removed it, all this came from under the seat

then I made new slides.


Next I thought that mounting the seats and belts through the fiberglass tub was kinda foolish considering all the work I put into the roll bar and attaching it to the frame in six places so -- I built a roll cage.

note the belt attachment points (white)

and the seats in to make sure the fit is right between the seat and the wheel and floors.


Now to remove the whole thing, weld it up and coat with "rustolium"!

I still wish someone could identify the seats. I'd like to get vinyl covers for them since mud and cloth don't mix. I checked with an upholestry shop today and the cost to cover -- $550.00 aprox..

 

[IOPort51]

Neoprene seat covers will cost you close to $200 by the time you get them.
Mine cost about 200 for the shop and 1-150 for the marine vinyl Still better than the after market stuff and got the seats I wanted with the colors my girlfriend wanted (orange and red?). I think I would look for another trim shop. They are close but still a bit high , IMHO.

 

[Stormrider]

Coming along quite nicely there Old Guy. Every time I look, your Jeep is looking much better! I paused on mine for a few weeks but I am back at it. I am getting ready to put some leather seats that I bought off of Craigslist awhile ago in myself. Keep it up!

Louie.

 

[oldguy]

Thanks for the comments IO and Louie, glad you like it. IO, I've talked to several places now and they are all within a few bucks of each other. Not sure what I'll do, possibly make my own type of slip cover. Got the cage out and welded up and painted.


and on to the wireing -- what a mess!! It's kinda hard to see but there are several fuse blocks jury rigged together.


I love a good challenge though. I'll probably try to replace everything with spade type fuses and definitaly reduce the amount of wire by half. I think every previous owner added a bit here and there.

 

[dalenelson]

Very nice. Did you build the roll cage from scratch? How are you going to attach the roll cage thru the fiberglass to the custom frame?