Build Thread 1983 CJ7 FRANKEN-J build

Build Thread 1983 CJ7 FRANKEN-J build
Picking up 4bbl intake today, got a lead on a radiator and Edlebrock carb as well.
Gotta get cracking on that frame resto
 
Can I offer you $100 for the dana three hundred…

I know they go for more, but I don’t know the true condition and also the shipment is very expensive.
 
Can I offer you $100 for the dana three hundred…

I know they go for more, but I don’t know the true condition and also the shipment is very expensive.
as much as I'd love too, I paid $300, and will probably try and sell it locally, but I appreciate the offer, and betting shipping would be outrageous.
 
Yes, thank you.
 
new problem, using the chevy NV3500 5spd as is with chevy TC case, total length is 47", puts it about half way down the current drive shaft, how short is too short for a drive shaft...do I have to turn this into a Scrambler and/or lengthen rear axle distance from trans remounting springs extending the frame?
 
Ok, some unpopular decisions made, but what the hell right, everybody is different. Drivetrain, 96k mileage 1984 Iroc Camaro 305 crossfire...already removed crossfire, going 4bbl Intake and Edlebrock carb &HEI. Now have a low mileage 5spd from a 97 Silverado, NV3500 HD with transfer case. Chevy 5spd and TC measure 47" from integral bellhousing to end of tailshaft snout. This puts it a good ways past where the current automatic driveshaft sits making what would be the newer one a lot shorter...how short is too short, extend rear axle? extend body and frame? Scrambler it?
No I'm not changing my drivetrain at this time, other ideas or thoughts?
Also, what flywheel clutch combo will put these 2 together, yet to check if 1 or 2 piece rear main. NV3500 setup for external slave:tu:
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something along these lines, but I've also seen some real hack jobs...
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Will it take away too much from the looks? Hacking the body...really have a hard time wrapping my head around it.
Bonus I guess...longer frame might mean a larger fuel tank stuffed under there
 
Will it take away too much from the looks? Hacking the body...really have a hard time wrapping my head around it.
Bonus I guess...longer frame might mean a larger fuel tank stuffed under there
This your 5 or 7 you're doing this with?

Wrassled with this myself not too long ago trying to decide how far to go with it

Really depends on how much you're trying to get out of it and whether or not you can abide the full comp cut
 
CJ7, I don't really have a lot of emotion invested in it yet, but hoping I will after it all said and done, that being said, I don't want to make something I won't like either. So I guess, what i will do is, get the frame ready up to that point, rolling suspension, drop on the running gear...and decide from there.
 
Since the YJ rear leaf is approx 43" eye to eye(using YJ frame and leafs) what about an older GM set of leafs, either 52" or 56" regardless of how many leafs and disassemble them to either a 5 or 6 leaf setup to get the correct ride height, extend rear of frame to accommodate leafs, and open up rear of body so as not to extend the body?
This is going to be driven a lot in the summer even on blacktop, Limited highway.
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Armyvet, I think you are about to embark into disappointment and frustration. But, of course, we can to do whatever we want. My advice is you use your dana three hundred, a CJ style front axle (manual locking hubs are better), don’t use the NV3500 and TC, use CJ or YJ lift kit (if you want a lift), and stay away from a CV driveshaft if you can. Unless you want an all out rig, then stretch the wheel base and mutilate the tub. Good luck, bud.
 
Armyvet, I think you are about to embark into disappointment and frustration. But, of course, we can to do whatever we want. My advice is you use your dana three hundred, a CJ style front axle (manual locking hubs are better), don’t use the NV3500 and TC, use CJ or YJ lift kit (if you want a lift), and stay away from a CV driveshaft if you can. Unless you want an all out rig, then stretch the wheel base and mutilate the tub. Good luck, bud.
Thanks for your advice, I'm not sure what
I want lol, but still leaning towards sbc
 
That SBC will NOT disappoint.
 
yayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy, there's light in dat dar tunnel :jeep:

Did you take pics of the install/disassemble etc? May call on you for insight if I go this route
It's been a few years but Ill help however I can. I rebuilt the D300 with new bearings and such when I took it out of the old Jeep. Figured since I was in it, might as well update it.
 
It's been a few years but Ill help however I can. I rebuilt the D300 with new bearings and such when I took it out of the old Jeep. Figured since I was in it, might as well update it.
Hoping I don't have to rebuild it, the 4x4 will only be incidentally used in sand or water crossings, not an all out rock crawler
 
Hoping I don't have to rebuild it, the 4x4 will only be incidentally used in sand or water crossings, not an all out rock crawler
Yeah, I remember pressing gears and such. It was fun when I was younger and first starting my build. I could get it done in a day. Now it probably take me all week lol. Fist step, get the unit out and let it sit for a week while I recoup hahah. But if you do have to do an adapter shaft, you'll have to press the gears and such off the old shaft unless you just replace them new, then you have to press the new ones on. Maybe you can buy the whole shaft with gears and everything from Novak or JB conversions. Then it's just take out and replace. My Jeep is a mixed bag.... Jeep engine, Chevy Trans, Jeep TC, Chevy front w/ Ford spindles, ford rear, Chevy calipers w think Durango roters on the rear. Durango steering box.....
 

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