Build Thread 1974 CJ5/1.8L 4FB1 Isuzu Diesel

Build Thread 1974 CJ5/1.8L 4FB1 Isuzu Diesel

DieselJeep

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Mansfield, OH
Vehicle(s)
1974 CJ5, Isuzu 1.8L 4FB1 Diesel
Hi everyone.
New to the site. Lots to learn about my new project, a 1974 CJ5, with an 1.8L 4FB1 Isuzu Diesel. My build is a first to me in almost all ways. This is my first 4x4, and is the first diesel I have ever owned personally.

The 1.8L 4FB1 I found on CL, out of a Chevette, with @ 55,000 original miles. Auto trans was left behind, as of no interest to me whatsoever. Got it cheaper, too. I have been meditating on the concept for a year, so when I saw the 1.8L, I did some fast research, and I jumped. Parts seem to be a slight concern, but they are out there. But the tiny size and proven reliability should more than compensate. Actually just spoke with a guy who has plenty of spare motors just a few hours away...

And for those out of the loop, these weigh @ 368lbs FULLY DRESSED, and have almost ALL the features of a high end boosted diesel. Piston squirters, beefy rods and crank, ect...

Goals of the project are:
1) Mechanical injection exclusively. NO electronics on running motor. I don't care if it hurts economy slightly.
2) Cheap Fuel The ability to dump nearly any kind of waste/junk oil into the tank. Constructive input welcome here, but I have personally seen everything from used soybean oil, used motor oil, to old auto trans fluid used in various diesels (including common rail). No strange additives, mixing, ect. Works great, cheap, and easy. I have seen mid 90's Ford common rails burning just about anything. My personal thoughts are if the "junk"(filtered to 1 micron) is cut with diesel #2, you would have no real concern. Diesel #2 has a much higher sulfur content, which is very slippery...And #2 is STREET LEGAL in a diesel older than mid or late 90's(correct me if I'm wrong for OH at least). Just read the placard on a diesel #1 pump the other day. It said RECOMMENDED for older than late 90's...
3) Power Perhaps @ double or triple factory HP, which is possible.
4) Reliability
5) Simplicity
6) Cost (as in, as little as possible), but with a huge nod towards safety and reliability. And after buying the CJ, and the motor, I am WELL under my goal of > $2,000 so far. And still have plenty $$$ for trans., transfer case, and tires(which I feel will be the pricier items).
7) Fuel economy I know a 4x4 brick is not efficient, but if I can bag 30-40 MPG on the highway, I'd be happy. And no I don't want huge knobby swamper/mudder tires.

I noticed a Isuzu P'up at another site, that is running an Eaton M90 SC. Works very nice. Used Cummins 4BT boost timing components installed inside of the Isuzu "Altitude Compensator". I am awaiting some more info on the successes/concerns of the mod. It's of particular interest to me as the gentleman I bought my 1.8l diesel from threw an M90 in, along with a inter-cooler(i believe from a Saab). It reminds me of a modern radiator, with plastic tanks on either side.

However in the mean time I am tossing the idea @ of using it, as it is on hand, free and ready to roll(as far as the unit itself goes). Versus trying to buy/ship a turbo(or two) that probably wouldn't be quite right anyways. I noticed the T25's are too big really, and the T-15's seem small. To use the turbine side of a T-15, and compressor from T25, well, there's 2 used turbos I gotta buy, still have to have it balanced, rebuild the unit. Then fab pressure oil line, return...
Prelim very rough calculations if I were to use the M90 reveal @ 1 to .95 (appx) drive would yield @ 12- 15psi at 6,000 RPM's. The blower would live dang near forever. I know TECHNICALLY the M90 is way too big. But it's THERE and READY. I think personally for my project my goals are to get full boost at 5,000RPM(this motor's Red Line), and keep it conservative, as I won't go that high often(hopefully). I'd like to HAVE the power there, available, but actually use it as sparingly as possible(so I don't stand out like a lil ol' lady angering everyone else merging with traffic!) My biggest concern is parasitic losses @ cruise, and at redline. Tiny motor can't afford much HP to spare...But decent economy is also a factor, but then it WOULD be uber reliable, and 150 lbs torque is fine... And perhaps I could wire up a on/off switch to a A/C clutch, ala Mercedes Benz and/or Mad Max.:D

All the project goals are slightly variable, to a point...
Any thoughts?
 
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P/O garage, removing stock drive train.
Hard to see, but frame/suspension beautiful, aside from new fuel/brake lines.
Lotsa Body work to do, but complete body wise.
What repairs must be done, I don't have to research the original shape of the stamping.

Seats hacked, as well as the 1" cut fenders, quarters, and the "body lift".
Short nose going on.
Better pics soon.

View attachment 5162

View attachment 5163

Think I'm going with Dunlop Radial Rover A/T's @ 235/75R15 standard sidewall. They are fairly lightweight, same weight as regular passenger tire (29 lbs). But also, 29" in diameter, with some lug. Great reviews, even off road and in snow. AND under $400.
View attachment 5167

Also decided base color will be a "silver", as the base for the pixel urban camo...
 
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Update!
FINALLY got her home!

Bought a can of JB Blaster, and crawled all over it hosing down every screw and bolt I could.

AND, the buddy who lent me the trailer gave me:
A set of military tailights(one is glass lens!!), a spare tire mount, a Gerry can from 1945( I already have one from '51).

He aslo has a set of 4 NICE chrome 15x7(instead of the 8's that stick out 2+ inches) that he'll sell CHEAP!! Mounted a 235/75R 15 on it, and it's about right. Sticks out from under the tub BARELY. Worried about water "rooster tails" as I go down the road (or trail) with no flares... Detailed pics very soon.
 
Update:
PO said he found a set of the military 16x4.5 wheels he'd trade for my crappy 15x8's!
Think I'll widen them to @ 7-8", in the future(as $$$ allows).
That will really help with the look I'm shooting for, AND help with tire selection, as 15's are slowly going away.

STILL have to get back down there and pick up my roll bar and axles.


MAN, I'm having a HARD time finding a short nose!!!
 
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I said axles. :rolleyes:
I MEANT driveshafts. Picked 'em up,and roll bar.

NICE T5 this week!!

Leaving only the D300 to buy!!


:D
 
Busted tail and took names yesterday, big time.

Had to clear out half of a barn, 20 years of haphazard misc. stuff; re-arrange toolboxes, table saws, plywood, 2x4's, ect. Mostly by myself.
Then get the cj in shoved into the barn. Can't let this stupid rain hold me up anymore.

But I was just getting started.

I worked till @ midnight, and also managed to get the hood, fenders and grill removed, dash, wiring and steering wheel out, seats, windshield and windshield hinges removed.

Yes, the tub is now almost completely stripped, and ready to come off.

It was a very good day's work!

:chug:

Also compared the Isuzu bell housing with the T5 I picked up in Michigan. The throwout bearing guide/front seal hole is a little smaller than the jeep seal. Have to have that machined out @ .100 or so. BUT the bolt pattern looks identical... Also looks like the T5 is getting a complete overhaul. Most of the gears look great, but the forward gear on the main/input shaft has all the teeth sheared off. Probably some kid launching it like a drag car. I actually think the gear below it might be good, too, after a cleanup and inspection. Didn't see any visible damage on the outside of the teeth. I figure the thing is 25 years old, and the Jeep T5 casing is beginning to get kinda getting scarce, so I'll just keep this one, and completely rebuild it. I'll still have less than $300 in it(only have @ $70 in the trans. at this point, with the gas $$$), and it will be a brand new unit.
 
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:chug: :chug: I look forward to your reports on how your jeep turns out... I hope your T5 can suvive the torque of a diesel :rolleyes:
 
Thanks Gert.

Well if freshly blueprinted, and using ATF from start, I think it will live just fine with 150-200(if lucky) Ft lbs. Built with right parts, they can handle 500+ ft lbs. But I'm spending @ $300(hopefully, so far) or so, not $1,200+...

I've heard all the rap the Jeep T5 gets. But personally have seen stock 1983 280ZX T5 live vehwee long time in a hopped up 1971 240Z with 400 HP(tuning during dyno runs, various stock Datsun 2.8L I6 parts, mostly, and run with ATF), so we'll see.:rolleyes:
 
Frame is COMPLETELY stripped.
Fuel lines, brake lines, emissions, brackets.
Even cut the rivets holding the front(cracked at rivet pin holes) and rear cross members, as they are bent rather nicely. I want to restore what I have, so will help having them off to square them up. That's OK in turn, as it helps to reach a few extra areas for rust abatement.
Steering gear and bracket is off as well, so extra detailing/rust abatement areas.

The frame is CLEAN, I mean CLEAN, so very few rust pitting areas. Just a :censored:load of North Carolina sand everywhere. But man, the insides of the rails look GREAT!

Finishing up the paint, so pics later today.

:chug:
 
SCORE!

A set of fenders, to replace mine that were "radiused"(POORLY) for big tires.
Will be shaved down the 4 inches required.

D300 transfer case. Twin stick mod coming, definately!

$250 for all, and $15 in gas.


Schweet!

:chug:
 
where is the pictures man! i see all the pots that say pictures up later today, but i dont see any..
 
So sorry guys.
My camera went AWOL, so I'll have to borrow roommate's.

I have been crazy busy, so not much has been done last month or so.
But, here's where I'm at:

The tub is off, stripped of all hardware, and accessories. EVERY nut and bolt attached to the tub is off. I WAS trying to kill the rust myself on the tub, but it ain't happening. Too slow, not thorough enough for me. And I don't want to blow my roomie's compressor.
I want the tub PERFECTLY rust free.
So, I am cutting out the bad sections, removing the tub cross supports, then taking it to a pro sandblaster.
Some repair has to be done on a few braces. Looks like they were launching her over some ramps, or embankments or something, as a few places where the body mounts to the frame are slightly crushed.

A few friends suggested POR 15, but I ain't using that. I want the rust GONE, not sealed up.

Can't remember if I mentioned it, but the frame is nearly done.
I have a few cracks to fix, but it is completely wire wheeled in a grinder, chemically treated, etching primer, then rattle canned gloss black. Then mild wet sand.
Looks better than it probably has in 40 years. Like new.

After I finish R/R a quarter panel on a buddy's HHR, I'm back at it on the Jeep.

I'll get some pics up soon, just bear with me guys.

Thanks for the interest!:chug:
 
That's beautiful.

-Jon
 
thats too, cool, where did you source the motor from?

edit, sorry.....cl from a chevette? that sounds beyond odd, i wonder where one of these could be had other than random cl stuff.
 
TY JD and Rufus.
The other stateside source for the 4FB1 is an Isuzu I-mark. Another rare bird.

What makes me mad, is these motors are built EXACTLY like a semi truck motor, esp like a OHC semi motor. Steel ring lands, forged everything, piston squirters, ect. They were built FOR boost, and were turbo'd EVERYWHERE in the world, EXCEPT the USA, because the brake booster interfered with the turbo.

So, we got an awesome, reliable, efficient diesel, WITHOUT the turbo, killing the power from @ 100HP to about 60. Wasn't very popular in the mid-80's. Seems >6% of Chevettes had them. However they live forever, and can take over 20PSI boost STOCK. Proven and been done. But finding gaskets and parts? Psh. Had to order NOS cam bearings from TURKEY. However, they are AWESOME little motors, PERFECT for what my goals for the CJ are. I don't feel the need to impress other men by blasts through a mudder/swamper/bogger/whateverTF hole, or driving around with stupid power I almost never use, killing economy. I wouldn't be surprised if I reach 30-40 MPG on the highway, @ >50 a Gal, in a brick. The Chevette got 55+ MPG.

Holden owner upgrades after 22 years, 869,000 miles - Autoblog

Still Holden on: Gemini clocks 1,000,000km | News.com.au

So yeah. I have two of these now, they meet or surpass all the specs for the original 4 cyl gas in a CJ5 for the first 15 years, so I will be fine, even N/A. But turbo sizing in works...
 
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I worked for an Izuzu dealership in the 80s. We had a turbo Pup as it was called... That little parts chaser haloed ***! We also had several IMaeks that flew......
 
lol

I have a V6 Fiero GT to fly in. She inherited the M90. And 350HP in something that weighs 2,400lbs is ridiculous. I look UP at new corvettes. My eyes are equal with their tail lenses, and most of the local vette guys , musclecar guys, the "drift" crowd, and whoever else know not to waste their fuel. They will lose.


The CJ and Fiero both were to stop paying obscene amounts of money to big oil. The Fiero is because I am a weak man who cant stop making horsepower. But it still gets @ 30 MPG hwy.
 

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