Diff Wagoneer/Scout Axles and 33s

Differentials
Diff Wagoneer/Scout Axles and 33s

aglinks

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Location
Flagstaff, AZ
Vehicle(s)
‘83 CJ7, 4.8L Vortec, TF999, D300, AMC20, D30
I am working on my axle build (shoutout to @coldair for sourcing my front axle) and have most of the parts (see the list below for the plan). My concern is the lift, width, and tire size looking funny. Is anyone running 60" axles on 33x10.50's? I would switch to 35s but I don't want to cut my tub for clearance and I don't want to lift higher than it currently is.

- Dave's Customs Unlimited Full Width Kit and bumper
- '76 Scout Rear Dana 44, Yukon DuraGrip 4.27:1
- '75 Wagoneer Front Dana 44, ARB 4.27:1
- BDS 4" Suspension Lift with YJ Front Springs
- Tie Rod Flip Kit to clear diff cover
- Xenon 5" flares
- Stock backspacing on the wheels

Thoughts and pictures would be appreciated!
 
Solution
keep the wagoneer steering knuckles, tie rod, drag link, pitman arm and leaf spring pads. buy the steering box mount that relocates the steering box forward to provide clearance for the wagoneer components. You can even use the wagoneer variable ratio steering box if the CJ box isn't quick enough for you at the end of its range of motion. To use CJ spindles/hubs to reduce the width and keep 5X5.5, you need scout d44 outer shafts, the wagoneer caliper brackets, gm car style D52 calipers (1973 Chevy Nova), late model CJ rotors (.88 thickness) and a master cylinder with a 1.125" bore.
You will see a lot of information about this brake swap using the earlier CJ rotors (1.125 thickness) and truck/wagoneer calipers. Even though they're close...
Diff Wagoneer/Scout Axles and 33s
Progress update:

Both axles are assembled. Yukon Duragrip and 4.27s in the rear, ARB and 4.27s in the front.

Scout stub shafts are installed with new u-joints.

New steering box and M.O.R.E mount are mocked up (you will note in the picture that one bolt is missing. That hole doesn't line up so I need to do some work with a carbide bit).

All parts have arrived and I am chipping away at it bit by bit. I will continue to post pictures and can post a complete parts list at the end if anyone is interested.
 

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Axles are in but I have an issue. Both new pinion seals are leaking like crazy. I used Motive seals that came with my install kits, cleaned the yokes with scotchbrite, and greased the seals before I installed the yokes. What did I do wrong?
 
Now that the swap is done (just waiting on backordered fender flares) I wanted to write up a summary of what I did for anyone that may be interested in doing the same thing. I know my approach wasnt the "right" way to do it, but it was easy and the jeep drives SO GOOD! So, lets get started.

The axles:

Front Axle is a 1975 Wagoneer Dana 44. I went with Motive 4.27 gears, ARB air locker, International Scout stub shafts, and CJ outers. You will note in my pictures that I painted the knuckles chevy orange. That automatically makes them Reid knuckles, right? lol. Now I know I am going to get some hate for using CJ outers instead of stronger Ford outers, but whatever. My thought is that running weaker hubs will act as a fuse, they are cheap and easy to replace, and if I break one, I can still drive home in 3 wheel drive.

Axles Pickup.jpgAxles Unloaded.jpgFront Open.jpgFront axle.jpg

Rear Axle is a 1976 International Scout Dana 44. I scored a brand new Yukon Duragrip with bearings on Facebook Marketplace for $200. Again I went with Motive 4.27 gears and a Motive install kit. The breaks were in great shape but I went ahead and replaced the wheel cylinders to avoid any future leaks. I re-used my CJ parking brake cables and they work perfectly.

Rear Open.jpg

Axle Swap Kits came from RuffStuff. I used their "simple swap kits."

Suspension:

I worked with WFO Concepts to spec out my suspension and steering and cannot recommend them enough. Trevor was AWESOME to work with. I went with shackle reversal, BDS 3.5" YJ springs, and 4" shackles. I set my shackle angle to 6 degrees and absolutely zero noticeable brake dive. Honestly my 2020 4Runner has more nose dive.

Shackle Hanger.jpgFront shot.jpg

Steering:

Since I am using the CJ knuckles, I reamed them for top down GM 1 ton TRE's and used WFO's Inverted T kit. I also used M.O.R.E's steering box mount that moves the box an inch forward. Also, my factory box and shaft were worn the heck out. I replaced them with a Redhead steering box and a Borgeson steering shaft.

Steering Gears.jpgSteering Progress.jpgSteering Welding.jpg

Thoughts:

This thing drives like never before. 80MPH on the freeway one handed. The nose sits a little high for my liking but I am hoping the front springs settle. My brand new pinion seals leak like crazy so I ordered some emery cloth and new seals. I will polish the yokes and re-install and hope for the best. Once my flares from Xenon come in, I think it will look amazing. If anyone wants a parts list, I can totally post that too!
 

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Get some speedy sleeves and Indian Head Shellac, the parts store will tell you what to measure before ordering parts.
 
Just providing a quick update after 6 or so months of use. The jeep still drives amazing and flexes way better off-road. I installed the Xenon flares but thought they looked pretty silly with 33s so I ended up going back to the stock flares. I think the jeep looks great with the wider axles and am so happy I did this swap! My only complaint is that the front is still higher than the back. I will work with BDS and WFO to get a spring/shackle combo that works better. Here is a picture of how the jeep sits now (yes, I know I need to re-spool my winch)!
 

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Progress update:

Both axles are assembled. Yukon Duragrip and 4.27s in the rear, ARB and 4.27s in the front.

Scout stub shafts are installed with new u-joints.

New steering box and M.O.R.E mount are mocked up (you will note in the picture that one bolt is missing. That hole doesn't line up so I need to do some work with a carbide bit).

All parts have arrived and I am chipping away at it bit by bit. I will continue to post pictures and can post a complete parts list at the end if anyone is interested.
would love a complete parts list with links or part numbers if possible?
Which pitman arm did you end up using?
I'm in the process of sorting out my Scout Dana 44 that is currently in my jeep but have a FSJ Dana 44 front that I'm going to build in my off time since I have it on hand and it has better built in castor. I'm running/want to run a very similar setup. Spring under with RE 4.5" lift, 33.x10.5 tires, 4.10 gears, and hope to use my CJ outers to keep the brakes simple.
 
would love a complete parts list with links or part numbers if possible?
Which pitman arm did you end up using?
I'm in the process of sorting out my Scout Dana 44 that is currently in my jeep but have a FSJ Dana 44 front that I'm going to build in my off time since I have it on hand and it has better built in castor. I'm running/want to run a very similar setup. Spring under with RE 4.5" lift, 33.x10.5 tires, 4.10 gears, and hope to use my CJ outers to keep the brakes simple.
I kept a spreadsheet with part numbers and links. I will get that posted in the next few days!
 
Dana 44 Swap Parts
Front
PartQuantityLink or Part Number
Locker1https://www.desertrat.com/i-23365435-arb-air-locker-dana-44-30-spline-3-92-up.html#!
Gear Set1https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/motiv...atio-ring-and-pinion-d44-427/_/R-GGNW-D44-427
Gear Install Kit1https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mgr-ra28lrmkt/make/jeep/model/wagoneer/year/1975
Ball Joints2https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...dYrMqP-5d-zyP_Y12e5tKTaOzl1CrRqcaAln4EALw_wcB
Axle Swap Kit1https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/D44FSS.html
Leaf Springs2https://bds-suspension.com/product-display?sr=004351
Stub Shafts2https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aly-10128/make/international/model/scout-ii/year/1975
Rear
Yukon DuraGrip1https://www.summitracing.com/parts/yga-26027
Gear Set1https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/motiv...atio-ring-and-pinion-d44-427/_/R-GGNW-D44-427
Gear Install Kit1https://www.jegs.com/i/Motive-Gear/683/D44IK/10002/-1
Axle Swap Kit1https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/D44SS.html
Pinion Bearings1https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/dana-spicer-outer-pinion-bearing-kit-706030x/_/R-FSGR-706030X

https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/dana-spicer-inner-pinion-bearing-kit-706031x/_/R-FSGR-706031X
Steering and Suspension - Anything without a link is from https://www.wfoconcepts.com/
Steering Box1https://www.redheadsteeringgears.com/shop?year=1983&make=Jeep&model=CJ-7&options=24
Steering Shaft1https://www.quadratec.com/products/56113_910.htm
Jeep CJ 76'-86' Shackle Reversal Front Drop Box, Full Width 31.5" Spring Width, 2.5" Springs1WFO FBD-CJ-315
Jeep CJ Outboard Shackle Hanger Mount KIT, for 31.5" Springs1WFO SH-CJ-315-KIT
4" shackle kit with 9/16" holes (4 shackles)1WFO 6104-9-KIT
Bolts49/16" Bolt Kit G8 - 4.5"
Full High Steer Inverted T Kit, 1.5" DOM
w/ Weld In Bungs & Tierod/Draglink
Ends, NO PITMAN ARM
1WFO IT-15-KIT
M.O.R.E Steering Box Bracket (1.5" forward)1SB7686-1
YJ Large Leaf Spring Bushing Kit w/ 9/16" Sleeve, (4 bushings & 2 sleeves)4WFO 4200-9
Flat Adjustable Pitman Arm that has been reamed out to customer's measurements Draglink taper, bottom up, 5.25" long hole to hole1PM536FPA - REAMED

Hopefully this is easy enough to follow. If you have any questions, let me know. It all went together great and drives amazingly. I know everyone says to NOT use the CJ outers, but I did an it works well for me.
 
Thanks for the detailed parts break down.
After lots of reading and thinking it over I may end up keeping my scout knuckles and running them on the Wagoneer axle even after I build it and using a Y Link (might also be called inverted T) style steering setup.
I'll test it out on the scout axle currently in my jeep in the coming months. Going to be doing a new power steering box very soon (trying the H1 upgrade so we'll see how that goes, a little nervous about the quicker ratio) and bought all the components for the Y link steering already. This will move the drag link engagement point back (relatively speaking) on the knuckle. So instead of attaching way out at the front which is around 9+ inches from center hole to ball joint center hole, it will be pushing at the tie rod attachment point on the knuckle which I think is closer to 7.5 inches center to center. My pitman arm is about 6 3/4" center to center so this should give me a big improvement in turning radius, though still probably not as great as stock CJ components. I think a Wagoneer pitman arm is 7" center to center so I may add that as well.
The nice thing about the scout knuckles I'm noticing is even with my spring under 4.5" lift the tie rod angle is very minimal. Like almost flat. If I can keep that and make sure there is no draglink/tierod interference I think I'll be good. And no messing with brakes/hubs/spindles etc.
If not I'll build the CJ7 knuckles to mount on the Dana 44 and do crossover steering. I know crossover is the superior design but I'll see how the Y Link feels.
 
@Nikwho helped me out with his awesome welding skills! We welded the WFO spring hanger to the frame and added a piece of rectangular tubing to box the end of the frame. I still need to put the winch line back on and paint everything, but its too friggin' cold outside.
 

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Summit Racing brand winch line is on! My old warn line had a few bad spots that I didn’t trust. I went with 100’ of 3/8” cable and a new hook for about $57.
 

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Not to bad a price
 
Turned out nice! Great info too.
I'm starting a Wagoneer front Dana 44 swap right now. I'm gonna shorten the long tube 4" though, to better match the width of my rear Scout II Dana 44.
I also like the idea of keeping everything from the CJ knuckles out - especially since mine has all new parts on the recently-rebuilt Dana 30.
 

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