Diff Wagoneer/Scout Axles and 33s

[aglinks]

I am working on my axle build (shoutout to @coldair for sourcing my front axle) and have most of the parts (see the list below for the plan). My concern is the lift, width, and tire size looking funny. Is anyone running 60" axles on 33x10.50's? I would switch to 35s but I don't want to cut my tub for clearance and I don't want to lift higher than it currently is.

- Dave's Customs Unlimited Full Width Kit and bumper
- '76 Scout Rear Dana 44, Yukon DuraGrip 4.27:1
- '75 Wagoneer Front Dana 44, ARB 4.27:1
- BDS 4" Suspension Lift with YJ Front Springs
- Tie Rod Flip Kit to clear diff cover
- Xenon 5" flares
- Stock backspacing on the wheels

Thoughts and pictures would be appreciated!

 

[caveman]

You should never have any problems with those axles and 33s.

 

[aglinks]

You should never have any problems with those axles and 33s.

Not worried about breaking them. I just don’t want it to look stupid so I’m hoping someone has a similar build on similar tires so I can see it lol

 

[NP435]

Not worried about breaking them. I just don’t want it to look stupid so I’m hoping someone has a similar build on similar tires so I can see it lol

Dont worry about looking stupid, your jeep, build as you want. 60's are almost impossible to break so enjoy them, I have Currie 44's I have been told they won't handle rock crawling abuse and power. My 1972 IHC truck had Dana 44's with a 392V-8 abused its entire life and they held up just fine.

 

[aglinks]

I guess I am just hoping to see someone with Wagoneer width axles on 33x10.50's to make me feel better about the project.

 

[CJ]

I guess I am just hoping to see someone with Wagoneer width axles on 33x10.50's to make me feel better about the project.

Did you look at the "Similar Threads" listed below for more information? Might have what yo need...

 

[aglinks]

Did you look at the "Similar Threads" listed below for more information? Might have what yo need...

View attachment 75398

I did, and I didnt see what I was looking for. Maybe I am just blind.

 

[CJ]

Nott blind at all but it helps to narrow a search for you (us).

 

[CJ]

Is this heelpful?

-->> https://www.offroaders.com/projects-installations/project-jeep-cj7/cj-7-dana-44-axle-swap/

 

[aglinks]

I keep going back and forth on my steering solution. Originally I planned to do a tie rod flip and make a longer tie rod/drag link. But doing some reading, people have suggested getting the Wagoneer tie rod/drag link and swapping to the Wagoneer pitman arm. I am going to use the CJ outers, brakes, hubs, etcs. Thoughts?

 

[Bent]

keep the wagoneer steering knuckles, tie rod, drag link, pitman arm and leaf spring pads. buy the steering box mount that relocates the steering box forward to provide clearance for the wagoneer components. You can even use the wagoneer variable ratio steering box if the CJ box isn't quick enough for you at the end of its range of motion. To use CJ spindles/hubs to reduce the width and keep 5X5.5, you need scout Dana 44 outer shafts, the wagoneer caliper brackets, gm car style D52 calipers (1973 Chevy Nova), late model CJ rotors (.88 thickness) and a master cylinder with a 1.125" bore.
You will see a lot of information about this brake swap using the earlier CJ rotors (1.125 thickness) and truck/wagoneer calipers. Even though they're close to the same thickness as the gm/wagoneer rotors, they're too close to the wagoneer caliper bracket to get the inside pad installed. The caliper bore on the car style D52 calipers is the same as the wagoneer, just machined for a thinner rotor. I believe the pre 1970 car D52s had the brake hose connect at an odd angle that will interfere with the steering knuckle. the early 1970s gm car D52 calipers are the same casting as the wagoneer calipers except they fit a thinner rotor. To use early CJ rotors and wagoneer calipers, you need an aftermarket caliper bracket.
If you use CJ outers, you can keep the CJ brakes, but you need to ream the knuckles for the larger tie rod ends from over the knuckle, and use a shorter pitman arm to keep the same steering ratio.
Either way you may want to build a custom Y link to lengthen the drag link and reduce bump steer. The stock wagoneer tie rod connects the drag link a long way away from the knuckle. Custom Y link kits lengthen the drag link so it connects closer to the steering knuckle. CJ outers with the tie rod over the knuckle will clear the differential cover.

 

[CJ]

keep the wagoneer steering knuckles, tie rod, drag link, pitman arm and leaf spring pads. buy the steering box mount that relocates the steering box forward to provide clearance for the wagoneer components. You can even use the wagoneer variable ratio steering box if the CJ box isn't quick enough for you at the end of its range of motion. To use CJ spindles/hubs to reduce the width and keep 5X5.5, you need scout Dana 44 outer shafts, the wagoneer caliper brackets, gm car style D52 calipers (1973 Chevy Nova), late model CJ rotors (.88 thickness) and a master cylinder with a 1.125" bore.
You will see a lot of information about this brake swap using the earlier CJ rotors (1.125 thickness) and truck/wagoneer calipers. Even though they're close to the same thickness as the gm/wagoneer rotors, they're too close to the wagoneer caliper bracket to get the inside pad installed. The caliper bore on the car style D52 calipers is the same as the wagoneer, just machined for a thinner rotor. I believe the pre 1970 car D52s had the brake hose connect at an odd angle that will interfere with the steering knuckle. the early 1970s gm car D52 calipers are the same casting as the wagoneer calipers except they fit a thinner rotor. To use early CJ rotors and wagoneer calipers, you need an aftermarket caliper bracket.
If you use CJ outers, you can keep the CJ brakes, but you need to ream the knuckles for the larger tie rod ends from over the knuckle, and use a shorter pitman arm to keep the same steering ratio.
Either way you may want to build a custom Y link to lengthen the drag link and reduce bump steer. The stock wagoneer tie rod connects the drag link a long way away from the knuckle. Custom Y link kits lengthen the drag link so it connects closer to the steering knuckle. CJ outers with the tie rod over the knuckle will clear the differential cover.

A great informative and articulate post, I owe you a

 

[aglinks]

keep the wagoneer steering knuckles, tie rod, drag link, pitman arm and leaf spring pads. buy the steering box mount that relocates the steering box forward to provide clearance for the wagoneer components. You can even use the wagoneer variable ratio steering box if the CJ box isn't quick enough for you at the end of its range of motion. To use CJ spindles/hubs to reduce the width and keep 5X5.5, you need scout Dana 44 outer shafts, the wagoneer caliper brackets, gm car style D52 calipers (1973 Chevy Nova), late model CJ rotors (.88 thickness) and a master cylinder with a 1.125" bore.
You will see a lot of information about this brake swap using the earlier CJ rotors (1.125 thickness) and truck/wagoneer calipers. Even though they're close to the same thickness as the gm/wagoneer rotors, they're too close to the wagoneer caliper bracket to get the inside pad installed. The caliper bore on the car style D52 calipers is the same as the wagoneer, just machined for a thinner rotor. I believe the pre 1970 car D52s had the brake hose connect at an odd angle that will interfere with the steering knuckle. the early 1970s gm car D52 calipers are the same casting as the wagoneer calipers except they fit a thinner rotor. To use early CJ rotors and wagoneer calipers, you need an aftermarket caliper bracket.
If you use CJ outers, you can keep the CJ brakes, but you need to ream the knuckles for the larger tie rod ends from over the knuckle, and use a shorter pitman arm to keep the same steering ratio.
Either way you may want to build a custom Y link to lengthen the drag link and reduce bump steer. The stock wagoneer tie rod connects the drag link a long way away from the knuckle. Custom Y link kits lengthen the drag link so it connects closer to the steering knuckle. CJ outers with the tie rod over the knuckle will clear the differential cover.

Thank you for the information! I scored a great deal on some Yukon Chrome Scout Stub Shafts and plan to use the CJ outers. I spoke with the owner of WFO Concepts yesterday and came up with a plan for how this project should go. See below:

Suspension:
The previous owner of my jeep REALLY liked to weld stuff on. So the winch mount and recovery points are very thoroughly welded to the outside of the frame horns (see the photo). To use the Dave's Customs Unlimited kit, or the M.O.R.E kit, I would have to cut all that off. WFO offers an outboarding kit that attaches to the bottom of the frame so it will be much easier for me to use. The caveat is that their kit is shackle reversal.

https://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/CJ-76-86-Full-Width-31-5/19732/3459/4328/4474

Additionally I am planning to use BDS 3.5" YJ springs with 4" WFO shackles.

Steering:
Given the sweet deal on scout stubs shafts and my desire to keep things simple, I am sticking with CJ outers. WFO offers a TJ/YJ pitman arm that is already reamed to accept the chevy drag link that should be the right length. So I plan to use that pitman arm, ream the CJ knuckles, and use an inverted T steering configuration.

Other:

• I am unsure how much flex I will get with the spring under shackle reversal and dont want to destroy my inner fenders; however, I am only running 33's.
• Based on everything I have read, the shackle reversal should make the jeep handle much better on the road even with the inverted T steering configuration.
• The owner at WFO said he doubts I will even need a sway bar with this setup.
• I already have a Tom Woods front driveshaft that has longer than stock splines, but I might need a long travel driveshaft.

Sorry if this is a lot! I hope I am not picking a stupid path for this project.

 

[j6824]

Biggest two things with the reversal will be front end dive when braking and the need for the longer front driveshaft if/when wheeling.

Too short and it comes apart...too long and you risk driving it through the tc output.

The rearward movement of your fronts toward the back of the wheel wells shouldn't be a big deal with the 33s, but something to keep an eye on

The BDSs aren't gonna flex all that much, though...they're solid, but stiff

SR really a mixed bag...what you get on one end you give up on the other. Really depends on what you want out of the rig.

 

[aglinks]

I wheel my Jeep quite a bit, so I may need a longer driveshaft. Tom woods advertised mine as having longer than stock splines, but I really won’t know until it’s all bolted together and on its weight. A new driveshaft won’t be the end of the world.

 

[aglinks]

I am getting closer to swapping in my new axles. Rear is built and ready, starting on the front now. If anyone is interested in my old axles, send me a PM! AMC20 with one piece axles and LSD, Dana 30 with ARB. 3.73's in both.

 

[NP435]

I doubt you will ever stuff 33's into the fenders. So far I haven't and about the same set up. 4inch springs and Currie44's 1ton chevy steering stuff. Woods Shafts too.

 

[aglinks]

I doubt you will ever stuff 33's into the fenders. So far I haven't and about the same set up. 4inch springs and Currie44's 1ton chevy steering stuff. Woods Shafts too.

Are you running a long travel front driveshaft or just the normal Tom Woods shaft? If I can save $450 on a long travel shaft, that would be great

 

[NP435]

Are you running a long travel front driveshaft or just the normal Tom Woods shaft? If I can save $450 on a long travel shaft, that would be great

I wish I could say for sure, I had a shop do the work and I don't have a parts list that would say, I think it must be a long travel shaft based on the down travel flex I have seen when out having fun.

 

[NP435]

I should have mentioned that my front spring shackles are reversed too.