Tie rod on TOP of steering arm?

[ColeTrickle]

I just received my Rusty's HD tierod and drag link replacement today!
Talk about beefy, at least compared to the stock components.

I was wondering if anyone here has gone ahead and installed their steering components on the top side of their steering arm?

Are the holes tapered from the bottom up or would I have to drill the top side out?

Just curious is all. I really like to tuck everything up even though it may just be 3-4"

 

[Torxhead]

I had mine welded up and reamed from the top, this allows using the oem style pitman arm with no drop to affect steering.

 

[ColeTrickle]

What did you weld? I can see having to ream from the top.

 

[Sasquach]

The taper would be the wrong way. Possible to go upsize on the ball end though.

 

[Torxhead]

Yeah, I did install a larger tie rod/rod ends, The oem style is quite a weak setup, I have seen guys bend them with stock size tires.

 

[CJ]

Here are some good links on the tie rod flip and the differences between using a ream and a bushing.

http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f19/tie-rod-flip-10552/

http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f19/tie-rod-flip-kit-reamer-22330/

http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f19/tie-rod-flip-3718/

 

[Rube83]

I used thesee. Just simply drill and insert.

Tapered Steering Knuckle Insert - RuffStuff Specialties

 

[tarry99]

I just received my Rusty's HD tierod and drag link replacement today!
Talk about beefy, at least compared to the stock components.

I was wondering if anyone here has gone ahead and installed their steering components on the top side of their steering arm?

Are the holes tapered from the bottom up or would I have to drill the top side out?

Just curious is all. I really like to tuck everything up even though it may just be 3-4"

First off better check your assumed new vertical clearance between the tie rod & frame during full compression of the suspension..........It can get close in there. If you already have the new parts and there setup for the standard early Jeep taper you have no other choice to upgrade from there due to the threaded shaft size in your parts that attaches to the tie rod or drag link , which will be to small to go to a larger taper and shaft as found in the 1-ton versions.................as far as bushings , I like the these, drill the hole push them in a tack weld the flange........ Goferit Products!

 

[GatorBate]

I'm with Terry99 on this one. I used the Goferit Products! inserts. they were easy to install and so far (about a year now) they have worked great.

 

[certifiablejeep]

Flipped them when I put the front locker in and beefed up the steering... used the inserts... drill, weld and slap them in.




The only issue with beefier drag/rod links is that the stock steering damper won't fit.

cb

 

[PaRenegade]

I used the tapered inserts from OK4WD in Md. for like $15ea. I did both the tie rod and drag link. I choose these so I wouldn't have to remove much metal from the steering knuckle arm and if I screwed it up I could still drill it out and use the bushing type. I borrowed a taper from one of the guys at jeepforum so it only cost me shipping but I threw in a twenty for "rent". I wasn't going to flip my tie rod but I had clearance issues due to my diff. guard I added, so I had to.
The pic is without any body on the frame so it will level out even more than shown.

 

[Old Dog]

I used the Goferit Products! inserts. they were easy to install and so far (about a year now) they have worked great.

I used the tapered inserts like Pa did, they worked for a few years while I ran them (switched to a Dana 44 now) But if I were to do it again I would go with the Goferit ones as I believe they would be stronger over the long run.

 

[ColeTrickle]

Appreciate the replies guys!

Next question is would anyone happen to have the "taper" to ream out the spindles?
Forgive me of my vocabulary, I'm not much of a machinist.

Think I'll go for the goferit. Wish I would have done my research before buying the drop pit arm I now have...

On second thought, I really don't want to weld a solid steel piece to cast iron. I don't trust my welding capabilities that much.
Maybe I'll go with the other brand that doesn't require welding...

Thanks again, Gentlemen.

***Last Thing*** I'm new to the CJ thing but not Jeeps. I've seen ALOT of pictures of the steering box braces on peoples CJ's. I'm guessing this is a big plus to have? Thanks again!

 

[Torxhead]

The steering box brace, I would say is an absolute must, especially with oversize tires. Some guys like to put in a heavy duty steering box mount, with or without an additional brace. the main thing is to stop the steering box from moving around as it can help fatigue the front crossmember causing it to crack at the welds in each of its corners. PaRenegade sent in a good pic of his in an above post with the steering box mount.

 

[ColeTrickle]

Yah, I saw that pic and it reminded me to ask about the brace. I've seen them in quite a few pic now. I didn't have any idea that area was that weak. Guess that's on the list now. Thanks again.

 

[tarry99]

Appreciate the replies guys!

Next question is would anyone happen to have the "taper" to ream out the spindles?
Forgive me of my vocabulary, I'm not much of a machinist.

Think I'll go for the goferit. Wish I would have done my research before buying the drop pit arm I now have...

On second thought, I really don't want to weld a solid steel piece to cast iron. I don't trust my welding capabilities that much.
Maybe I'll go with the other brand that doesn't require welding...

Thanks again, Gentlemen.

***Last Thing*** I'm new to the CJ thing but not Jeeps. I've seen ALOT of pictures of the steering box braces on peoples CJ's. I'm guessing this is a big plus to have? Thanks again!

The Goferit bushing doesn't require full welding , what they suggest is tacking the flange to the Arm........in theory the Tie Rod end and the nut an washer below holds the bushing in place.............again a tack weld is just icing on the cake. One more thing , I know allot of folks have drilled those spindles while on the vehicle.......a reamer in that case may work better........I like to pull them off and get them clamped down to either drill or ream and insure the hole is straight.

 

[ColeTrickle]

Thanks for the reply, Tarry.

The more I thought about it I come to realize that welding wasn't necessary except as you mentioned "icing on the cake".

I would like to drill the spindles while on the vehicle. Just take it nice and slow.

Just got done reading 10 pages here and have learned A LOT. Looks like I'll have a go at drilling while on the vehicle.

Thanks again for the replies.

 

[Sasquach]

I drilled mine in place with ok results, going slow is not your choice as the drill bit screws itself through the tappered hole and all you can do is hang on.

 

[hdgapeach]

Use lubricant! And don't be a scrooge with it. Put a drain pan under it to catch the oil, spray, whatever.

Another tip; use a slow speed drill and just let it eat. I used a 1/2 drill with an extremely slow speed and still cycled the switch on and off throughout the process. If you have a good sharp bit and plenty of oil, PB Blaster, motor oil (any kind of lube) and go slow, you shouldn't have too much trouble.

And if you're slow enough, whenever the bit bites too much and stalls, you shouldn't get s**t whipped into the fender like a dish rag!

 

[ColeTrickle]

Just curious...has anyone ever drilled from the bottom up? That way there's less chance of the bit binding?

The more I think about this, I kinda want to go ahead and change out the ball joints to give me an excuse to pull the spindles... I've been through the rear axle may as well tear down the front. Whats yalls thoughts?

Odometer says 158k+
Opinions are more than welcomed!