Removing trans / t-case. Do I need to drain? T-5 / D300

[Flex BT]

My throwout bearing is squeaking. Sonofa....

I don't have a trans jack so I'm inclined to remove the transfer case and transmission one at a time. If I do that, do I need to drain the trans to prevent oil from getting all over my driveway, or should it be all sealed up?

Bonus question: Any way to get this thing replaced without removing the bellhousing?

 

[Petescj]

Neither should leak per say but you can leak some from the Dana 300 if you angle it wrong aka toward the transmission when letting it down. There is actually supposed to be a gasket between the trans and T-case. The trans shouldn't leak either. It will leak out of top at the shifter if you have to angle it hard to get it to clear the body.

Now is the time to replace any seals or gaskets if your t-case is leaking. I usually go as far as cleaning and painting while their out. If you want to ensure a clean driveway I'd drain both. They are probably due for a fluid change anyway? At least put some cardboard down.The bell housing does not need to be removed to change the throw out bearing.

 

[Posi]

The transmission and transfer case is a sealed unit and will not leak fluid if kept upright.

 

[Petescj]

Also I bought a Harbor Freight trans jack cheap. Works great but you have to have the Jeep pretty high. I have about 6 in of lift with 35s and still had to slide the trans off the jack to pull it out but mine is an automatic

 

[Torxhead]

When I was younger, I did pull them out one at a time. As I recall they are about 80 lbs. each, I would not advise anyone doing that though. Since then I rent a tranny jack.

 

[Petescj]

The transmission and transfer case is a sealed unit and will not leak fluid if kept upright.

I gave the extremely long winded version of this. :laugh:

 

[Posi]

Haha, I was typing while you posted.

 

[CJim7]

Sometimes I wonder if it's just not easier to pull the motor

 

[Neuner]

I prefer to remove and re-install mine one at a time. I've removed the 300 and my T177 without draining it with no problems since I kept it upright.

Instead of a tranny jack, I used my regular floor jack with a custom wood cradle for the D300 to keep it at the right angle when removing and re-installing. I used the wood cradle instead of the saddle pad. It was bolted to a steel flange that had a stub piece of metal pipe threaded and screwed into it. I had removed the jacks saddle pad and put the pipe onto the arm of the jack. Worked very well. I've also bench-pressed the D300 into place but definitely not the safest if it slips or you lose grip...

You can replace it without removing the bellhousing. I typically install the bellhousing first anyways.

 

[Flex BT]

Last 2 times I did it I drained the fluid to make it lighter. I used the bench press technique to re-install, it sucks when you can't get the trans shaft lined up just right! Should have a buddy when I go to do it this time. I'd love to get a trans jack or adapter for my neighbor's floor jack but money and space are at a premium right now and I honestly hope I don't have to @#$ with this transmission much more in the near future.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

I will pull mine(T5/D300)as a unit.
Will separate to make re-alignment of the tranny to the bell-housing that much easier.
X2 on get'n a tranny jack. Mine will fit in the 'saddle' of my floor jack.
I drain'em because I change all of the seals while they're out.
LG

 

[Hedgehog]

Why fool with your oil, do yourselves a favor an just drain the oil. It makes life much easier. Remember the T-case has a breather set fairly low. Tip the case and oil goes everywhere. I know this! I'm still cleaning oil out of the rocks around my driveway.

It's been said two or three times now, so I must ask. Tell me, exactly how can you change your thro out bearing without pulling the bell housing? I suppose you can put the bearing on the bearing nose of your transmission, but getting the fork on the bearing properly can be a bear.

Use your floor jack with a board or a plate attached to the jacking point. You might be good to use a cinch strap to hold it. Leave the thing loose and sloppy. This makes it easier to wiggle and jiggle the trans. until it settles and slides into place.

 

[Neuner]

It's been said two or three times now, so I must ask. Tell me, exactly how can you change your thro out bearing without pulling the bell housing?

Easy. Put bearing on fork. With the tranny strapped to the floor jack, slowly slide it in place with right hand and then as it gets close enough, slide bearing over input shaft using the fork with the left hand. Done it several times with the T5 and the T177. Might be the difference in the tranny you have?

Makes it easier for me to access the upper bellhousing bolts and make sure I have the proper torque with the tranny out of the way.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Easy. Put bearing on fork. With the tranny strapped to the floor jack, slowly slide it in place with right hand and then as it gets close enough, slide bearing over input shaft using the fork with the left hand. Done it several times with the T5 and the T177. Might be the difference in the tranny you have?

Makes it easier for me to access the upper bellhousing bolts and make sure I have the proper torque with the tranny out of the way.

110% correct. I have also done this many times.
The 3 top bell housing bolts are a real PITA to access. A 'flex' socket and a very long extension, goes a long way in help'n here.
LG

 

[Hedgehog]

Makes perfect sense. Never really thought about sticking the paw in the input shaft hole to attach the bearing to the fork. So frequently when the bearing goes the rest of the clutch needs attention it never really occurred to me NOT to remove the bell housing. Then there is the T-18 which has a transmission bolt from the inside of the B-housing. I suppose even then the bolt could be stuck in in such a was as to prevent it from falling out during installation.

 

[Flex BT]

AFTER ACTION REPORT:

Holy geez.

It took me from about 0915 till 1630 including cleanup, a trip to harbor freight (ratchet straps), and dog breaks.

Floor jack + ratchet straps worked like a charm. It probably took at least a full hour for me to figure out how to get it lined up just right. I put the trans / TC combo on a 2x4 and ratchet strapped it to a floor jack. Slid it right out and never had to leave the jack. I had to back out the clutch adjustment to free up the fork to install the bearing. I ended up using a clutch alignment took as a reference since there was no good way to aim the trans into the clutch. GD it took forever.

My throw out / clutch release squeak is gone! Now I have a different problem on my hands though. I'll probably start a separate thread for it after doing some research. I installed a new Tom Woods CV drive shaft that really helped hugely with an issue I've been having forever going into gear. However, since the drive shaft has been installed and my rear axle angled I've had a weird metal on metal type scraping sound while moving. It doesn't seem to be synched up with the turning of the drive shaft, more slow than that. Doesn't really match up with the tires either. It seems louder when I'm not under power. I topped off my rear diff (but it didn't seem really low, prob just the difference from being angled up due to the new driveshaft) and don't have a clue where it might be coming from. Any ideas?

 

[Lumpy Grits]

The scrap'n sound could be ball joints and U-joints in the front axle.
Can also be the springs rub'n inside the main frame hangers.
Lift up the front wheels and check for play.
LG

 

[Flex BT]

The scrap'n sound could be ball joints and U-joints in the front axle.
Can also be the springs rub'n inside the main frame hangers.
Lift up the front wheels and check for play.
LG

Huh... well when I installed the drive shaft I had to shim the rear axle. I don't think anything should have really changed but I wonder if there was some geometry issue or installation mistake that caused torque on the springs vs. the hangers. Definitely some things to check out when I have some more time off. Any good way to vet the spring / hanger issue?

 

[Lumpy Grits]

"Any good way to vet the spring / hanger issue?"

Eyeballs and a flashlight. Look for the spring eye rub'n on the inside of the hanger.
Why, did you 'shim the rear axle'??
LG

 

[Flex BT]

"Any good way to vet the spring / hanger issue?"
Why, did you 'shim the rear axle'??
LG

I installed a CV driveshaft, so the rear diff needs to point at the xfer case. Thing shifts 10x smoother now but I haven't had it outside of the neighborhood due to the new squeaking sound. The fact that I reattached the axle to the springs makes me think that's likely the issue vs. suddenly having a u joint or ball joint go bad. I torqued the U bolts to spec and everything... wonder what might be off.