Locker question. Help!

Locker question. Help!

jakeh937

Senior Jeeper
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Location
Petaluma, CA
Vehicle(s)
'79 Cj5, 258 with Howell Fuel injection kit, T18 with dana 20 Tcase, dana 30 front with Detroit locker, AMC 20 rear with LSD and one piece shafts, Warn 8k winch, 1" body lift, 2" suspension lift, 33 tires
In the front end of my jeep is a Dana 30. 79cj5. It has a Detroit locker according to the PO. I took it out for a cruise off road for the first time Sunday. I was in granny low, 4low and hubs unlocked. It was a dirt road that was fairly steep and banked to the right. I kept hearing a "clunk, and a pop" noise. Is this normal? I'm unfamiliar with this type of locker and have never driven with one. And I've never heard it before on the street. Also, a guy at work told me a Detroit in the front wth a Dana 30 will most likely break a shaft. Is this true?


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The clunking with the detroit locker is normal. As for the longevity of the 30, I cannot answer.
 
With the hubs locked, I'm assuming it allows that locker to fully engage. Being I had them unlocked but did have power flow into the front diff from 4 low does that cause that locker to lock and unlock depending on terrain?


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With the hubs locked, I'm assuming it allows that locker to fully engage. Being I had them unlocked but did have power flow into the front diff from 4 low does that cause that locker to lock and unlock depending on terrain?


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That would be my assumption. There was resistance to keep it engaged.
 
Jake, you might want to look into twin sticking it if you run around in low a lot. 99% of the time Im offroad I am in 2 low because (1.) I dont need the front engaged to get where I'm going since the rear is locked as well, and (2.) with the fronts engaged with a locker its a bit more work to steer.
 
OP, does your Dana 20 have a 2 low position? It would be between N and 4L with the factory shifter. If your shifter linkage is still tight then you may not have it, but every Dana 20 CJ I've driven (probably 12-15 of them over the last 15 years) had sloppy linkage and 2Low.
 
I do have a twin stick kit I bought that I was going to use on my own build. I rebuilt the tcase that is now in my jeep and surprisingly the linkage is not as sloppy as I have seen. And there is no 2 low. Will a Detroit in the front break shafts?


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A lot depends on your driving style, situations you put your rig into, tire size etc.
A wheeling buddy ditched his Dana 30 for a Dana 44 up front because he kept breaking shafts, but in all fairness, he is hard on stuff to begin with and is running a SBC 350
 
A lot depends on your driving style, situations you put your rig into, tire size etc.

A wheeling buddy ditched his Dana 30 for a Dana 44 up front because he kept breaking shafts, but in all fairness, he is hard on stuff to begin with and is running a SBC 350



Interesting. Mine is just the stock 258 running 33s. I'm pretty easy as I hate when things break. Will that locker engage and disengage in 4low even if the hubs are unlocked?


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I'm not overly familiar with Detroit lockers, but if the locker is an automatic/lunchbox style locker, it has to feel the loss of traction to engage. If you do not engage your front hubs, there is no way for the locker to sense this. If you have a twin stick, why are you engaging the front axle without locking in the hubs? If you want low range in just rear wheel drive, just engage the rear wheels in low range and leave the front in neutral.
 
I'm not overly familiar with Detroit lockers, but if the locker is an automatic/lunchbox style locker, it has to feel the loss of traction to engage. If you do not engage your front hubs, there is no way for the locker to sense this. If you have a twin stick, why are you engaging the front axle without locking in the hubs? If you want low range in just rear wheel drive, just engage the rear wheels in low range and leave the front in neutral.



That makes sense. I don't have a twin stick installed. I do have the kit....in a box still


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Yep, front hubs unlocked = No engagement on the locker.



Okay because I'm a noob, no engagement on the locker means it should not be making noise?


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Correct. Unless something let go inside. A few years ago, a friend had the ring gear bolts loosen up on the front axle. It eventually bound up and we had to retighten the bolts. Granted, this is a very rare occurrence, but the noise gremlins know no bounds! :rolleyes:
 
I have a front DL. Never makes noise(nor should it)with just the hubs locked.
OP-make sure BOTH of your hubs are working 'rite'. If only one is work'n, that could well be the issue.
Tip-Air down your tires on the trails for better traction, and less noise from the locker.
LG
 
Last edited:
I have a front DL. Never makes noise(nor should it)with just the hubs locked.

OP-make sure BOTH of your hubs are working 'rite'. If only one is work'n, that could well be the issue.

Tip-Air down your tires on the trails for better traction, and less noise from the locker.

LG



Do you hear yours in 4x with the hubs unlocked?


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Correct. Unless something let go inside. A few years ago, a friend had the ring gear bolts loosen up on the front axle. It eventually bound up and we had to retighten the bolts. Granted, this is a very rare occurrence, but the noise gremlins know no bounds! :rolleyes:



I have heard about that happening. It sounded like it was coming from the front. It could have been the seats too. I'll be popping that cover off when I get time and looking



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Do you hear yours in 4x with the hubs unlocked?


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The front-No, never. If the front hubs are releasing the axle. There's no reason you would. There's no front drive-line load being applied.
Before you 'pop' the diff cover. Confirm your hubs do in fact disengage from the axle shafts.
LG
 
The front-No, never. If the front hubs are releasing the axle. There's no reason you would. There's no front drive-line load being applied.
Before you 'pop' the diff cover. Confirm your hubs do in fact disengage from the axle shafts.
LG

:agree:
 
The front-No, never. If the front hubs are releasing the axle. There's no reason you would. There's no front drive-line load being applied.

Before you 'pop' the diff cover. Confirm your hubs do in fact disengage from the axle shafts.

LG



What's the best way to verify they are disengaged from the axle?


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