Help Disc-Disc Brakes

Help Disc-Disc Brakes
Having my coffee here and would like to rationalize this thread.

The only favor you are doing to yourself by relocating the prop valve is that it makes for an easier replumb job. I did it on my rig. If all you are doing is replacing the valve and no replumb, then the relocation is not warranted. When all is said and done, and done correctly, you will not have to fiddle again with this valve ever again.

That aftermarket power brake kit from the Jeep Guy does require replumbing. A good quality tube bender and flaring tool are key. And anything less than a double flare on brake lines is a no no.

On another note, I can theorize that the bigger Chevy calipers used in conjunction with a high quality manual brake setup might rival the stopping power and pedal effort of power assist brakes, and might negate the need to replace the prop valve all together due to their bigger cylinder size. And keep things simple.
 
Years ago when I built a Pro Street Camaro with a 6-71 blower, a vacuum assist booster could not be used, with a narrowed 9" Ford rearend w/ 11" discs and stock size front discs. The solution was a Corvette non-power M/C. The chambers were both the same size and a bore something like 1 1/4", the stopping power was better than stock power assist. As said above once the adjustable P-valve is set properly, you won't have to change it again. Of course anytime you mention Corvette the price doubles.
 
As of now, I have no plumbing. I’ve taken my CJ7 down to the frame. I e turned the corner and am in the rebuild phase but the only brake work completed is mounting the calipers to the brackets on the axles. I’ve not run any lines with the exception of the line between the two rear calipers.

So I’m already bought into re-plumbing. It won’t make a difference now if I relocate the prop valve. I also don’t see the need to remove the calipers I’ve already bought and installed to buy new bigger ones. So far I haven’t read anything that tells anything beyond it’s a nice to have.


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When I said a high quality manual brake setup, I really meant properly selected m/c, with as small as possible piston diameter that can still provide the right fluid volume.
 
I have one piece axles with the ssbc disc brake conversion. Stock CJ booster with a master cylinder from an early 80’s Camaro or Corvette. Used an adjustable push rod for booster to master and an adjustable lever from booster to pedal. Mounted a disc/disc style proportioning valve from SSBC or you could use an adjustable proportioning valve.Mounted it to the frame near the clutch Z-bar mounts to.
 

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