Help Disc-Disc Brakes

[Ultrunner]

I’m starting this thread understanding that entering a discussion about this topic is almost like a religious debate for some - much like discussing headers and carburetors.

I have converted my AMC20 rear end to disc brakes from TSM mfg. I am looking for recommendations from those who have disc-disc setups regarding type/brand size etc... on master cylinders and same for proportioning valves.

I understand adding a brake booster helps. Where do you mount your prop valve. Do you recommend any other components?

Thanks.


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[CJ]

Wow! This is a great subject but I will say the only thing you have to have is an adjustable proportioning valve. You state you have on so it's going to take alot of panic / normal bake tests

 

[CJ]

Well - I just reread your post. You are not driving but looking to. I did a 4 axle disk setup from Stainless Brakes -->> https://ssbc-usa.com/

 

[shum8]

While I can offer no advice (useless, I know), I will be watching and paying attention. This is one of the “one of these days” mods I’d like to do. If you go with an adjustable prop. valve, I’d mount it close to the reservoir just to make it easy to get to. Even fabbing up a custom bracket would be better than having to crawl under to adjust.......

And I think we all need to pitch in and buy CJ a spell checker for Christmas......


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[CJ]

While I can offer no advice (useless, I know), I will be watching and paying attention. This is one of the “one of these days” mods I’d like to do. If you go with an adjustable prop. valve, I’d mount it close to the reservoir just to make it easy to get to. Even fabbing up a custom bracket would be better than having to crawl under to adjust.......

And I think we all need to pitch in and buy CJ a spell checker for Christmas......


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LMAO - I hate my darn laptop keypad. It needs to be replaced because 'e', 'r' and others either stick, repeat or never show...

 

[shum8]

It’s your story, dude - LOL


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[Patrick]

I”ll share what worked for me, and still is after more than 10 years. Just use a non adjustable proportioning valve designed for 4 disc setup, and secure it in the stock location for simplicity during plumbing. Summit Racing has this valve. And don’t expect more braking power out of this conversion. If you want more braking power, that’s a whole new subject. Good luck, bud.

 

[Ultrunner]

Well - I just reread your post. You are not driving but looking to. I did a 4 axle disk setup from Stainless Brakes -->> https://ssbc-usa.com/

I looked into SSBC, but weirdly at the time they were going under. Looks like they reformed. This was the whole reason I went with TSM. So far their support has been great. I am eager to see how their set-up works.

 

[Ultrunner]

I”ll share what worked for me, and still is after more than 10 years. Just use a non adjustable proportioning valve designed for 4 disc setup, and secure it in the stock location for simplicity during plumbing. Summit Racing has this valve. And don’t expect more braking power out of this conversion. If you want more braking power, that’s a whole new subject. Good luck, bud.

Thanks Patrick, I like your approach to keeping it simple. This may be where I need to start and figure out what I need to add or adjust once I get things up and running.

When you say "don't expect more braking power..." what do you mean? Are you suggesting a booster is not necessary? I have read the brake pedal will not be very tight.

 

[Patrick]

The all disc conversion by itself will not give you more braking power. However, if you combine the all disc conversion with power brake assist, then your pedal effort will be reduced.

The right power brake components are a master cylinder from a 1990 1500 Chevy truck, a booster from a 70’s half ton Chevy, and a mounting bracket from a YJ. There is no need to replace or modify the rod on the brake pedal.

 

[Project86]

I didn't use a booster, just the prop valve. I mounted mine to the under side of the bed. Once I dailed it in to my preference I wrapped in aluminum foil for some driving/weather/mud protection.

 

[Ultrunner]

I didn't use a booster, just the prop valve. I mounted mine to the under side of the bed. Once I dailed it in to my preference I wrapped in aluminum foil for some driving/weather/mud protection.

Interesting, I’ve never heard of doing that before. How did you find your pedal resistance without the booster?


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[Ultrunner]

The all disc conversion by itself will not give you more braking power. However, if you combine the all disc conversion with power brake assist, then your pedal effort will be reduced.

The right power brake components are a master cylinder from a 1990 1500 Chevy truck, a booster from a 70’s half ton Chevy, and a mounting bracket from a YJ. There is no need to replace or modify the rod on the brake pedal.

Thanks again man, I’ve looked up all those parts. Pretty easy to find and very expensive or complicated. I believe in KISS.


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[cglax6]

Just seeing this now...

I did an all wheel disc conversion a couple years ago. I started with the front because I couldn't get rid of some nasty brake squeak...no matter what I replaced or adjusted. It also turned out that my rears were doing the same thing...after swapping my fronts, I could now hear what was going on in the rear.

I used Horsepower LLC for my front brakes and TSM for the rear. Side note...If you use the parking brake a lot, keep an eye on the nut that holds in the lever for the parking brake on the caliper. Both of mine have loosened and leaked brake fluid. Just check them every now and again and tighten...nothing a little loctite can't fix.

To answer your question, I bought a dual diaphragm booster, master cylinder and proportioning valve combo from The Jeep Guy website. Install was straightforward. I had a little bit of brake drag when I first installed it because the pin in the diaphragm was a little too long. I bought an adjustable pin and now everything works perfectly. I can't remember where I got the adjustable pin, but I remember just googling it and finding one.

I'm very happy with everything. The dual diaphragm is nice because the brake pedal doesn't require much effort at all. It takes up a bit more room, but it fits just fine. First image is the old stock setup...Second image is the new setup.

Since these pictures were taken, I've installed a 351w and hydraulic clutch, and there's still plenty of room for everything.

If you have any questions, shoot me a PM.

 

[Project86]

Interesting, I’ve never heard of doing that before. How did you find your pedal resistance without the booster?


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There is more resistance, however I didn't think it wasn't anything I couldn't live with. Do yourself a favor and move that brake valve off the frame rail now like cglax6 did. I moved mine to the left fender well. You'll be glad you did later.

 

[cglax6]

Yeah, the stock location is kind of sketchy

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[Ultrunner]

Thanks to all who have been contributing to this thread. I have gotten some awesome feedback and recommendations.

cglax6 I have been scoping "The Jeep Guy's" stuff recently. He is recommending I upgrade the front calipers to GM big brake calipers, but I think for not I am going to do the booster-MC with prop valve bracketed to the who setup and just keep the new calipers I bought when I rebuilt my Dana 30. I agree the stock location for the prop valve was weird and didn't make sense.

As I get closer I will certainly reach out if I run into any trouble. Cheers!

 

[cglax6]

Unless you plan on hauling a trailer, no need to go with bigger calipers of you already have discs up front.

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[Ultrunner]

Unless you plan on hauling a trailer, no need to go with bigger calipers of you already have discs up front.

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That’s kind of what I figured. Thanks for validating my assumptions.




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[Patrick]

Ultrunner, did they tell you how the Chevy caliper conversion is done? Does anyone know how?