Clutch Install Problems

Clutch Install Problems

joshcj5

Jeeper
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Location
Ohio
Vehicle(s)
1979 CJ5, 258, T18, D20
Short Version:

1979 CJ5 with t18 trans had its clutch replaced by myself, a rookie mechanic. After putting it all back together, I go to start it, and my clutch is making a HORRIBLE screetching sound, after a second or two the screetching stops and everything seems "ok," however I can not put it in gear at all.

I Installed the appropriate LUK clutch kit, which included new pilot bearing and throw-out bearing(which i greased). I kept the original flywheel as it was in good shape to my eyes.

Also,
The jeep shifts perfect when the engine is off. I tried starting the jeep in neutral with the clutch pedal depressed and the sound was significantly worse. I put the jeep in 1st gear, engine off, and held down the pedal on start-up and it lurched forward.

I was thinking my mistake was maybe installing the friction plate backwards but thats not possible. I just picked up a second LUK kit to see if it was reasonable that I had installed it backwards... but no, it would've been impossible to snug the blots to the flywheel given the springs and bumpout in the friction plate...Also I took extreme care to not do that mistake upon install.

ANY help would be very much appreciated. I also tightened everything to factory specs and it all went back together smoothly. Im miffed.
 
What was your runout on the pilot bushing and on the bell housing?

Describe your pilot bushing removal and replacement. Did it slip in, light tap in, hammer in?

What was your airgap on the throw out and spring plate?



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Im not sure how to describe runout. Not sure what that is really.

But I got the old pilot bushing out using the bread method. I should've ran to the store and borrowed a tool but wanted to try it out. It came out fine with no damage being done.

The new pilot bushing was very tight. I put it in the freezer then hammered in with the help of a socket to get it flush with the engine plate. It did take a good amount of force to get to in place. is that abnormal? I of course used the clutch alignment tool and everything was nice and lined up and seemed good.

I dont know airgap so i cant answer last question.

Tomorrow I have off so I will be taking it all apart again. I think it will be obvious whats wrong, at least I hope. I'm expecting some sort of damage or scratches. IDK
 
Thank you, I will read up on this. Looks more involved than I would have ever thought! I will post an update when I make more progress.
 
Thank you, I will read up on this. Looks more involved than I would have ever thought! I will post an update when I make more progress.
Keep in mind the information at that link is talking about conversions.
It still generally applies to what you are doing but you wont be trying to figure out what kind of throw out bearing or arm you need etc. Your staying with what you have. I pointed to this link because of the quality of the explanations.


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The release fork was placed incorrectly on the throwout bearing. A common mistake. Mitchellogic’s questions and advice make a lot of sense.
 
Before you take it back apart remove the clutch adjustment linkage and see if you can move the clutch fork forward and backwards a bit it should have some free play. Depending on if you have a dust boot or not you should be able to verify the fork and throw out bearing clips are engaging.

Verify the pivot ball and retaining spring didn’t fall off as well.

If that all checks out reinstall adjuster and set it so you have 1-1.25” of pedal free play measure from floor to pedal and lift it up.


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The clutch fork has zero free play with no linkage attached. Its incredibly tight, impossible to move by hand.

When I installed the throw out bearing i clipped it into its little dents on the back of the fork.
 
Hmmm. Not much you can do but take it back apart and find out what went wrong. Good luck.
 
That sucks. Sounds like it’s coming apart.
Once you get it out test the throw out bearing slides freely on the transmission input shaft housing.

If you take the clutch cover off remember to back them off and reinstall evenly or you’ll ruin the new clutch.


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The clutch fork has zero free play with no linkage attached. Its incredibly tight, impossible to move by hand.



When I installed the throw out bearing i clipped it into its little dents on the back of the fork.
Did you have to use the mounting bolts to tighten it to seat the transmission or did it just "click" in?


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Can you verify your clutch kit model number?
LUK-01-015 ?

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I had to use transmission bolts to snug it home. It was very tight. I think i attached some photos. Yes, its The LUK kit as described.
 

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Sorry the photos turned out sideways. But those are the pictures I took while taking it all apart. The alignment tool fitted all the way in perfectly still. I then took the bellhousing and trans and mated them together outside of the jeep and the bearing slide on the shaft perfectly. Ball and spring still in place.

I see no damage besides a few very minor scratches to the friction disk. Should i have adjusted the linkage to make it longer? I am so surprised this is giving me such troubles. Ill try to upload photo of bellhousing with the fork on shaft.
 
For some reason I can't see your photos. I am worried that "snuggling it up" with the bolts is actually the problem.
Sounds to me like your throw out is pressed right up against your spring plate.
You should have some free play in your pedal and about 1/16" between the throw out and the spring plate.
Something is not assembled right.
Maybe your throw out arm is not installed correctly. If it was a fight to get the spring in place it's caught up and forced forward.
Look over the guide located here and compare to yours.
http://jeep.smallcraft.net/new_clutch/installation.html


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When you take it apart, remove the transmission first leaving the bell housing if you can. Then you will be able to see the issue I think.


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Bellhousing attached to trans. the shift fork works great and smoothly
 

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Just PMd you. Check your messages.

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Clutch cover is way off alignment as indicated by pic 2 and the wear marks on the spring fingers. Double check the transmission input shaft to your friction plate the pics look like a 10 spline input and 4ish alignment tool.

Don’t feel bad if it’s wrong went through this a few weeks ago myself
 
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