Build Thread Cj8 build from parts

Build Thread Cj8 build from parts

BIGTRUCKNUT

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Northern Virginia
Vehicle(s)
'45 Ford GPW; '73 CJ5 350/NP435/D20; CJ8 304/T19/doubler/D300; '88 Ramcharger 360/NP435/NP205/D60s; '04 Ford Excursion PSD; '00 WJ w/3 and 4-link, D50/Sterling 10.5" axles
Started building a CJ8 Scrambler this month (May 2013) from a pair of old, rotted out CJs given to me by a friend. Already have a CJ5 that I drive daily and wanted to build a "first Jeep" for my youngest daughter since her two older siblings have Jeeps too (XJ and WJ). Basically, only useable parts off the two donor CJs are the drivetrains (258 and 304 w/T150s/D20s/D30s/AMC 20s) and some accessories/small parts. Frames and bodies are rotted beyond repair which led me to decide on a CJ8 since I was essentially starting from scratch anyway. All drivetrain components will be rebuilt before installation.

Ordered (and recieved last week) a TDK CJ8 frame configured for front reverse shackle using YJ springs and longer XJ springs in the rear. Expect to order a new steel body in the next few weeks. This CJ8 is going to be a dual purpose vehicle - daily driver and multi-purpose off-road vehicle that will need to be equally capable on the beaches of the Outer Banks, running through the mud, or out on a group trail ride with my daughter behind the wheel. Not building to "stock" necessarily, will upgrade parts/components as I go along. My general build plan:

-TDK CJ8 frame (stock wheelbase, front reverse shackle YJ/rear XJ springs)
-Steel body (basically unmolested)
-Tube front fenders
-304/T-150/Dana 20 engine, trans, t-case (for now however, toying with 6.2L diesel/SM465 idea for later install)
-Dana 30/AMC20 axles with upgrades for strength and traction
-35" tires
-Full cage
-Steel doors, soft top

Pretty agressive build; Trying to complete and have on the road by Labor Day 2013 (4 months build time!!!) Not my first ground up (but certainly the most ambitious), I have over 35 years of wrenching experience, and I'm not afraid to dig into any component. All work to be done by me with occasional help by family/friends as necessary. Wish me luck and check back in on the build to keep me motivated. Will post initial pictures within the next day or so and further posts/pictures as things get done.

Semper Fidelis,
Ty
 
A couple of pics of the "junk pile" I'm picking parts from, the new TDK frame, and my work rebuilding axles. Dana 30 was completely rebuilt with new ball joints, axle u-joints, Lock-Right, and brake components. Working on the rear AMC20 now, ordered and was going to install another Lock-Right but discovered it had a worn out Trac-loc case. Now waiting for new clutch pack instead. More to follow as I take components apart, clean up, and put back together. Hope that the front suspension components come in by Friday, I can get the frame prepped and painted in the next week or so, and I can start hanging parts to make it a roller.
 
:wtf: I see some 8 lug axles in the pic sure you dont wanna run them lol.... wow not used to seeing sawed up Jeeps like that
 
:wtf: I see some 8 lug axles in the pic sure you dont wanna run them lol.... wow not used to seeing sawed up Jeeps like that
Yeah, spare pair of Dodge axles (D60/D70) on the floor tht I got in a package deal with a NP205 that I put in my Ramcharger. Already have D60s in the Dodge so axles will just lie around waiting for a project.

As to the cut up Jeeps, frame back-halves were completely rotted, Neither was salvageable. The center section of both frames is still filled with red clay and rodent nests. Sawzall sliced through the frames like butter. The cut up pieces made it into the recycling can over the course of 2 weeks.
 
Buttoned up the front axle yesterday with brake caliper install. In all, stripped and painted the Dana 30 housing and parts, pressed in new ball joints, all new bearings, seals, axle shaft u-joints, converted to disk brakes with new brake components and installed Lock-Right. Waiting for rear axle parts to come in order to put it all back together. Getting the same treatment as the front.

Warned the family that I might need some help sanding and cleaning the TDK frame for paint this weekend...is there a better way to spend a holiday weekend?

Pic of completed front axle, please disregard the other garage "clutter".
 
That axle looks great.:notworthy:

Don't worry about the clutter, I have two brand new bikes in my garage that my wife and I bought 13yrs ago! Only have around 10 miles on them...:chug:
 
Re: CJ8 build from parts

Been cleaning, painting and assembling parts recently - nothing really sexy enough to post pictures. Did put a couple coats of black paint on the bare frame and hung the front springs and axle assembly to make it a partial roller. Got the new Trac-loc clutch packs installed in the AMC20 axle diff and hope to get the axle, with all new 1 piece shafts and brakes, buttoned up by the weekend. New weld on spring perches inbound, need to determine what size lift XJ rear springs to use, and if I'll need to go spring over in the back to level out front to rear with reverse shackle and 4" springs up front.

Got a follow-up call from Willy-Overland today concerning my future purchase of a steel CJ8 tub from them. Once I get closer to having a full roller chassis with engine, trans, t-case installed I'll pull the trigger on the tub - right now I just can't fit a Scambler tub in the garage with everything else.

Going to post a question concerning CJ7/CJ8/YJ door compatability and interchangeability on the help section of the board. I don't have any experience with the square door opening Jeeps, if you have a link to a Jeep Doors for Dummies web article please forward it to me so that I can get smart.

Pictures of the painted TDK frame:
 
Re: CJ8 build from parts

Ordered a set of XJ rear springs from Ironrock Offroad Wednesday morning then went out to a local JY to find other parts. Lo and behold, I find the same set of Ironrock springs in good condition on back of a junked XJ. Quickly called Ironrock to cancel my order then got busy pulling the springs. Got them for $96, saved me over $360. That same XJ has a aussie locker in the rear diff, long arm front suspension, and a short t-case kit and CV driveshaft installed - may go back and get some of it for my daughter's XJ. A good find.

Stainless brake lines came today, hope that remainder of rear axle and brake parts come Friday so I can get the rear end together this weekend.

More to follow...
 
Re: CJ8 build from parts

Brake parts came and I've completed rebuild/install of disc/drum components. Threw on wheels/tires all around to now have a rolling chassis. Next effort will be an attempt to fire up the 304 using the Motorcraft carb I found on an old Mustang last Thursday that I rebuilt Sunday and the new HEI distributor. If successful, will prep motor/trans/transfer case for transplant into the Scrambler frame. Will share some pictures this weekend.
 
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Re: CJ8 build from parts

So, have the rolling chassis and threw on the big tires to get a feel for anticipated height. Nothing beats the look of a set of Swampers. Also have plumbed the front brake system and working on rear brake lines this week. Had planned on using the 304 as is from the donor '76 CJ5 but it just didn't seem right when I tried to crank it over. Pulled it out of the CJ5 yesterday and began to tear it down with the help of my youngest daughter (who will be driving this beast once completed). Since I have it apart, I'm going to freshen it up with new bearings, rings, intake, cam and headers. Pictures of my mess in the garage.
 
wow, very cool and very aggressive on the time line.
I have 2 daughters as well, but I have a bit more time on my side... the oldest is just going to be 4, so I figure I have about 36x the time you have ;)

Labor Day is doable if you have the time to put into it... that is my issue currently, just not enough time because my "helpers" vs. your "helpers" truly equate out to a whole lot different "helping"... yours probably listen and do what they are told ;)

Good luck with the build.

cb
 
Took the 304 block and heads to the local machine shop last Saturday for bore/hone, deck, cam bearing install and new guides, valves (1.94/1.5), and seats. Had to go .060" over from previous .030" over rebuild. Going to pick up stuff tomorrow for mock up to measure deck height for final block decking. Hoping to achieve 9.0:1 static compression ratio with combination of pistons, block decking, and head milling. Will let you know how it looks, and post some pictures.

Still haven't decided on a cam yet but think I have it narrowed down to a CompCams XE256 grind (212/218*, .477/.484") or Howards 314131-10 cam (214/220*, .527/.540"). Thoughts?
 
Got the block and heads back and mocked up to rotating assembly yesterday to check piston to deck clearance. As you can see from the photos, I had my apprentice (daughter) helping me and hopefully learning something. After watching, listening, and asking questions while I did the first cylinder bank, she did the other. Interesting to deterimine that both deck surfaces were tapered front to rear by .008" and the pistons (Seal Power 1079NP, stock replacement) were down in the bores on average .030". Armed with this info, the block is going back Monday for a final cut of the deck surface to take out the taper and tighten up the quench distance using a .045" head gasket (stock shim gasket is .020"). I'm shooting for pistons .005" out of the hole which will give me .040" quench clearance between piston and head surface and raise the compression a little.

The heads look good and the 1.94"/1.5" Chevy valves look like they were made to be there. My shop did a skim cut of the head surface, installed 11/32" guides and hardened exhaust seats, and cut seats for the larger valves. They also trimmed the valve tips to get the valve tip height back to AMC stock dimensions while using the slightly longer Chevy valves. This week I will break out the die grinder to blend the bowls/valve seat area - there is a slight ridge/machined edge on the short side radius that needs to be smoothed out but that is about it. I think that not much grinding is required because the stock bowls and ports seem to be cast to accomodate bigger 360 valves already and the 1.94" intake valves actually improve the mishapen stock bowl/seat area caused by the use of the small 304 valves. Some might argue that this "extra" work and use of non stock replacement parts is unnecessary since I am not building a high rpm screamer. I would tell you that I do like to massage parts to optimize their function, performance, and efficiency whenever I reasonably can. That said, I'd like to cut the rocker pedestals for screw in studs and guideplates like a previous 304 that I built but frankly, money is tight right now as I look for employment within the Norfolk/Greater Hampton Roads VA area following retirement fom the Marine Corps last month. The use of stock vs roller rockers will determine my decision to install a lower lift/slower rate of lift cam that will be accomodated by the stock bridged rockers or a higher lift/faster rate cam that will need a roller rocker setup.

Hell, I still need to order a new body and all the accrutriments to round out this ground up Scrambler build! To that end I applied to a position with Dept of State last week, keep your fingers crossed for me.

Ty
 
Awesome build so far. Nice to see the famliy into also. Keep up the good work and looking for more updates
 
UPS guy showed up tonight with a few boxes of parts - headers, valve springs, locks, retainers, and other small parts; cam and lifters inbound tomorrow. Couldn't wait, had to reassembled the heads tonight. To rehash, buillding a 304. Guides were worn so had the heads cut for 11/32" stem Chevy 1.94/1.50 valves, pocket ported them to clean up valve job machine work, blend bowls into the ports, and to smooth out short-side radius. I installed CompCams springs, locks, retainers, and PC seals to work with Howards Cam 261/267 duration, .527/.540 lift. All went together smoothly. Will be interesting to see how long the stock bridged rocker arms hold up to the big cam and springs.

Did the rear main bearing oiling mod to the block yesterday- pretty easy and it came out extremely well. I used a pre-made 16" length of AN-6 braided hose with straight and 90* AN fittings on either end and two 1/8 NPT/AN-6 fittings tapped into the oil ports. Will locktite the AN fittings to ensure they don't come loose and cause an internal oil leak and loss of oil pressure to the back of motor. Will also do the oil pump and front cover oil return mods. Tomorrow morning early will wash and dry the block, install cam bearings, and commence to putting the short block back together with the fresh internals. In the end, had to bore/hone to .060" over, decked the block to zero deck the pistons with .045" head gasket, and skim cut the heads in addition to the bigger valves and new guides. The crank journals had previously been cut .010/.010" and measured good so I just chucked it up on the lathe and polished the journals out. Unfortunately too dark in the garage/driveway to take pictures of the heads going together tonight but I'll take some tomorrow and post progress. Will also roll the chassis out into the driveway to get a picture of the Aero Tanks 33 gallon fuel tank I installed last week. In all, it's coming together - Need to order the new body before the end of the week though.
 
Too much time building, not enough time taking photos. :) Motor is together and in the frame but ran into clearance issues between the header collectors and the reverse shackles. Headers are at the machine shop having the flanges angle cut to pull the collectors in closer to the block - fortunately I got the Hedman Elite headers with the thick flanges so I have enough material to do this. Otherwise, I've been working to fit the '76 CJ5 transmission skidplate to the 80s CJ8 spec'd frame, cleaned up the T-150 and Dana 20, ran brake lines, etc etc etc. New clutch and pressure plate going in tomorrow, install trans/t-case, and maybe run the fuel line out back to the BIG 33 gallon tank from Aero Tank. And I'll continue to think about the exhaust system - got all the parts/pipes in to build/weld a 2 1/2" into 3" full length system that dumps behind the drivers side rear wheel.

Body and windshield should be inbound from Willys Overland early next week. Plan to fab up a pair of tube fenders - not sure if going with standard height or do high fenders/cut hood. Have two hoods, one good, the other beat up and perfect to experiment on. Need to paint little parts, paint the body, find an appropriate steering wheel to mount onto the Flaming River column, find/order a new dash and run the wiring once the body gets here and is bolted down.

Pictures of motor, trans/transfer case, rolling chassis. More to follow.
 
MD Juan has redone their Scrambler tubs and there's a long thread about it over on the Scrambler board (CJ8.com). He came to that forum asking how he could improve his product, and there are some really, really picky guys over there when it comes to having everything just right. You might check into it before you pull the trigger on a tub. I'm waiting on him to come up with a good quality steel windshield frame so all the ones that are currently available are :dung:.
 
Looking very nice bud!

I'm :drool: over the 304 build... I'd like to rip min apart and re-do it completely... one of these days... :cool:

:chug:
~ Jr
 
MD Juan has redone their Scrambler tubs and there's a long thread about it over on the Scrambler board (CJ8.com). He came to that forum asking how he could improve his product, and there are some really, really picky guys over there when it comes to having everything just right. You might check into it before you pull the trigger on a tub. I'm waiting on him to come up with a good quality steel windshield frame so all the ones that are currently available are :dung:.

X's 2 on this. That was a great site for him to go on and ask how to improve on his tubs. Id say there are some perfectionists there for sure. Thats not a slam at all. They see alot of stuff many wouldnt even think of. Theres alot of good people and good info there. Reminds me alot of here. :) I'll have to swing by next week when Im on vacation. :D
 

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