Build Thread 83 CJ7 its time to get it done

Finally got off my butt and bled my brakes, i had to change the prop block as the original wouldn’t seal anymore
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If my 8 year old had a longer attention span i probably could get all 4 to lock


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On a side note, i dont recommend the Fitech retro fuel pump, its 10 pounds of :dung: in a 5 pound sack, you cant tighten the three screws around the fuel fittings, you dont want to grind on the housing because the fuel fitting holes are drilled pretty deep, now on to plumbing the fuel system for the tow pig


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If my 8 year old had a longer attention span i probably could get all 4 to lock


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LOL

Wish I had a longer attention spans sometimes as well….
 
I want to write my experience down while it semi fresh in my noggin to help anyone else that does a Fitech install:

I bought the 30002 kit, it has ignition control, they have kits that dont control ignition so make sure you get the right kit

They dont have a first fire check list that i have found, some things that i find important werent explained well in their documentation

If your kit does timing control and you want to use it, you need a 2 wire electronic distributor i used my stock factory one, you will have to splice your connector tho as the kit comes ready to use an MSD distributor, you need to lock out your mechanical advance and vacuum advance in the distributor, i did it with a spot weld easy enough

If you go to use timing control you have to manually turn it on and its not labeled intuitively. On the hand held in the initial set up menu you have a “TACH” option or “2 Wire+Coil” option, for the non ignition control you would keep your whole stock ignition set up and hook the blue wire to negative side of coil so the computer sees rpm

For ignition control you toss everything except your coil, coil hot wire and locked out distributor and hook the black wire to negative side of coil and select “2 wire+coil” in start up menu

If you run a dead head fuel system your fuel inlet is passenger side, if you run a return system your fuel inlet is drivers side, it dosent work swapped i tried that

Also make sure you go through your initial set up and save each change as you make it, they have the AFR set fat a hi RPM limit

Also the battery power wants to be on the battery, to much voltage drop if its on starter relay

Theres no ground wire with this system…… strange but one of the tbi mounting screws is not painted so use that as a ground location and add a ground to your engine it wants it

Im just glad i wasnt trying to break in a cam with this install


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Also dont buy their fuel pump kit, just buy a 4.0 pump and retro fit it to your CJ sending unit


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The Sniper and Sniper fuel pump also requires being connected to the battery. 14BDFEC3-0C73-42C6-9A3E-CE19DFD81CA8.jpeg
 
Well this is getting interesting and expensive fast……

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Summit Racing is awesome by the way


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Well this is getting interesting and expensive fast……

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Summit Racing is awesome by the way


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Its just money.
 
Ok new world record time to beat for complete EFI swap….32 minutes

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Instantly fired up and running good, major step forward for the tow pig


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It’s just a pig with no lipstick. The Jeep has the lipstick on it.
 
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Lol, I ripped the OEM TBI out of it and i still need to figure out what that wiring is for since i only need like 14 wires from the truck harness

I also tossed that holley unit on it in a big hurry to make sure the tach signal issues were indeed a faulty Fitech unit problem and it definitely was so lots of wiring clean up to go


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One day i would like to paint both of them…. One day


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One day i would like to paint both of them…. One day


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Just remember pigs have a pink hue to them.
 
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Boy oh boy i finally got off my butt and finished the body mount relocation to fit my YJ tub almost 10 years after i installed the tub


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Boy oh boy i finally got off my butt and finished the body mount relocation to fit my YJ tub almost 10 years after i installed the tub


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Does this mean I wont be picking body mounts up off the trail this year?
 

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