Build Thread 3rd time down the rabbit hole...

Build Thread 3rd time down the rabbit hole...
more of the good stuff...
 

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Getting ready to buy a new radiator for mine soon for my new engine. What brand did you get ? Have you ever eaten at Don Marcelino's in Del Rio. ? Started eating there probably 33 years ago when I would pass through that area. Heard a while back it had changed, but then what hasn't
 
It's been recommended to us but we are yet to make it. After this swap/build is done and I'm there full time we plan to hit 'em all. We'll have time the haus build will be a long time in the making.

JEEP_auto aluminum radiator_Gpiracing

Got my radiator from here. But I did not order it. Some of my parts were ordered by my buddy who just did an LS swap. So since he had all the recent part numbers, knowledge, and I'm short on time for research, phone calls, etc. I told him to order up. After today's delivery I think I'm ready to put the eng and tranny together.
 

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So in my spare time today I removed the hose barb connectors and tapped out the holes for the heater core. I could have went the 180 by pass hose thing, but it's not my style. Besides I think it looks dumb and in the way. Started putting on some the tunnel adaptor brackets on the TH350.
 

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Just wondering, why a TH350? CJ7's came with the TH400. Both good transmissions, but the TH400 is usually considered a stronger transmission. The TH350 though is shorter in length.
 
Nice work... Glad I found this build. I like your dash work. I'm supposed to be getting ready to put my front axle back together but spent this week ordering parts off eBay, including some parts for my dash that I won't need for months... lol.
 
No special reason for the TH350 other than it is shorter and proven itself to me. Although I like all the GM transmissions. I talked with a guy today who is working on a 4L60E. I guess someone will eventually do paddle shifters. I may change it out later, but right now I need this done so I can pack up the garage and get gone.

Spent today basically doing the mock up to check clearances and such. If the raining/storming/flooding will stop tomorrow I will weld in the motor mounts and start securing the transmission mount. Removing the fender worked well, no need to take off heavy *** front bumper and winch, plus unhook all the in cab remote wiring and front led lights, no grille removal made the engine go in at a lower height reducing chances of something bad happening.
 

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more picts. next set of picts will have a different set of headers for those who are paying attention. Where the collector flange ended, the edge of the trans (where dust cover would tighten down) and starter were all converging for the same spot. We exchanged headers to make a little more room. Time for a martini and little peace and quiet while I watch the lightning show. Later Y'all.
 

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mocked up the transfer case and as I figured all the cleareances were gonna be tight. Garage tip for ya' if you are working on installing transfer cases use some line bolts to help hold that weight up until you can a bolt started. Tip 2 use a milk crate(or similar) to get the weight up closer to the transmission, so you don't have to lift off the floor.

New/different header on pass side.
 

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Got better clearance with the different header. the other one was WAY tight. Measured for the driveshafts today, so tmrw it's off to Houston to drop 'em off for the re-do. Attached the torque convertor to the flex plate after a little burr job. BTW I have a brand new Advanced Adaptor flex plate in the box. In the beginning of the day the torque conv and flex plate were not lining up very well. The bolts kept wanting to go sideways at an angle. So on a whim I opened the new box and was browsing through the instructions and in the second paragraph it said. I'm paraphrasing here, two things are required if you are using a conventual GM convertor of 10.75 or 11.5. You will need to drill the holes blah blah blah. I quit reading, got out the die grinder and went to burr city. Quick fix. Main problem this weekend was darn neighbors coming by. They wanna jack jaws, drink, eat, go fish, see the haus. Glad tmrw is Monday.
 

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Transmission mount is completed. Yippee. Martini's for everyone. Assembly build picts. Normally I'd cut the inside of my bend and fill the gap. This time I cut the back side, heated it up, the filled the gap. Looking at the picts, you'll be able to tell what I'm sayin. My brother ( whom I'll deal with later) needs his B kicked for taking picts while I'm under the hood. If you've ever seen my fishing website or any other family picts I'm never in ANY of of 'em I take the pict. It was later and paint was drying but it's installed and will do picts of it tmrw. I used 4" by 1/2" carbon steel bar. I think it'll be pretty robust.
 

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Here's some of the stuff I had to use today to get ****** done. If I could have just had one more cord or pile of hand tools in the way. I knew before I went to sleep last night today was gonna be awesome. Rolled in the Houston and dropped off the driveshafts. Check that off the list. Had a lead on some windows, cruised over there and God shown down his light and heavenly music came from the clouds. Jeez. I bought 14 windows (8' x 3') for a ridiculous sum. In fact, with the money I saved I went by my favorite jeweler and looked at a couple of Rolex's. Will have the windows shipped and get my new watch Wednesday. The wife will never know the difference. BWHAHAHAHA. In fact, I may encourage her to add more design.
 

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mocked up the transfer case and as I figured all the cleareances were gonna be tight. Garage tip for ya' if you are working on installing transfer cases use some line bolts to help hold that weight up until you can a bolt started. Tip 2 use a milk crate(or similar) to get the weight up closer to the transmission, so you don't have to lift off the floor.

New/different header on pass side.

Getting near the installation of the TC. What is a line bolt ? You have a picture? Thanks. Thinking about a a little different tip 2 but will keep yours in mind
 
Mr. Belizean here ya go. It may have been more clear if I hadn't forget the "up" word. It should have read "line up bolts". I cut the head off a couple bolts that were a couple of inches longer than really needed and slid the TC onto them while I turned the yoke to engage the gear and push it on the rest of the way.
 

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The finished transmission mount. I used 2x2x1/4" angle iron and a piece of 4x1/2" flat bar. Your results may vary.
 

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So...today started off pretty good. Things accomplished, got the cooling lines and cooler installed, dip stick and tube, filled the transfer case with oil, tightened up all the fasteners,mocked in the radiator to get an idea on hoses, removed the pressure side of the power steering pump to get an idea on it, put the return hose on the pump and clamped it, installed the intake. Then it went left field. Laid down the new harness over the engine and proceeded to do the plug and play. Nope. The plug for the injectors wasn't having any of it. As I would find out, there is such a thing as EV1 and EV6 injectors. My man at the speed shop said that's a easy fix come get these adaptor pieces. Hallelujah! I was envisioning another 5 week wait for a harness. Will start some of the plug and play tmrw. Drive shafts are supposed to be ready tmrw. Fingers crossed.

First pict is what cathedral ports look like for a FYI.
 

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Tip for the LS dreamers, schemers, and swappers. IF you use a flexplate from Advanced Adaptors the instruction sheet will tell you 2 things are required to swap. Right after the General Information part the next paragraph proceeds to tell you the 2 things. Here they are: 1 if you use a standard torque convertor you will need to drill/elongate the flexplate mounting holes. Well, I didn't know that part and put my trans/eng assembly in the hole and found out the hole wouldn't line up. However, I turned the engine over by hand until the hole came around to the starter mounting area and used a die grinder and burr to adjust the holes. 2 if you use a standard torque converter you will need a bushing to increase the length so the convertor will engage to the crankshaft. This I knew and had got one from ICT. However, the Advanced Adaptors flexplate will come with one. If someone wants the instructions in a PM let me know.

I wound up with an extra Advance Adaptors flexplate. I may try to return it or may try to sell it here if there is interest.
 

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Most of this week was on the road dropping off parts or looking for parts. However, did manage to accomplish some stuff. Both new drive shafts are in. Grounding straps were made and installed. Finished up the pressure line to the fuel rail and return back to the tank. Mocked in the radiator and made some patterns to take to NAPA to find hoses. Ordered one we think will work for the top and found one we can use for the bottom. Seems weird to buy a new hose, go home and cut it up with a box cutter, but it worked. Finally got the pressure side of the power steering hose made up and it fit like a champ. I can do the new power steering hose picts here if ya'll want 'em. I put 'em over in the suspension thread under defibvt's thread. Computer mounts were made and installed, computer is now home under the cowl where the heater used to be. There are some weatherstripping foam pieces behind the computer to keep it from rattling and also under how it sits on my brackets to cushion the road bumps. I'll use the hole from old blower motor bring in all the wiring. Tmrw I'll get a pict of the finished fuel connection and grounding. Gonna keep it simple tmrw with the work and tidy up some loose ends. Martini's and BBQ tmrw.
 

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Today I finished up with both shifters and trans cover. The new Lokar kit was a snap. Bc the TH350 is longer, it moved the transfer case back. That means the location for that shifter had to move. After I opened up the floor some, I cut the bend off my shifter and took that same piece and spun it 180 degrees. So now instead of pointing to the back it now pointed forward. Tacked it up. Then I added a 3 inch piece of pipe to the top of that. Trickeration, so pay attention I put a 3/8" fine thread nut inside the bottom of the 3 inch piece. I also put a 1 1/2" by 3/8" bolt in the top part of the 3 inch extension and welded 'em up. I spun my extension down on the old part of the shifter where the knob used to be leaving enough gap to weld around the assembly. This way I get the strength of the weld plus with nut inside it helps to take the play out.
 

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transfer shifter mod picts cont.
 

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