Build Thread 1986 CJ7 Build

[Belizean]

Mine was always really close also. I got HD tie rod and drag links kit and swapped it to the top side of the knuckles. Now there is plenty of room. I also ditched the damper shock.

 

[CJ]

Mine was always really close also. I got HD tie rod and drag links kit and swapped it to the top side of the knuckles. Now there is plenty of room. I also ditched the damper shock.

Are you talkin the factory steering stabilizer if there was one?

 

[KRUPP]

Feb 19, 24:
-Thanks Belizean! You jarred my brain cells and I ordered 2 more sleeves from OK 4WD to "flip" the Tie-Rod up to the top of the steering arm. Already did the drag link last winter, so have the tapered reamer.

Rock Equipment Tie Rod Flip Sleeve

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-Need to get the tie-rod installed and then set the toe-in before I install wheels and get it back on the ground. Gonna order a new front driveshaft so need a measurement.

 

[CJ]

Tie rod flips are a great thing, best to put components out of reach.

 

[Belizean]

Are you talkin the factory steering stabilizer if there was one?

Yes. Mine came with one. Kept it on for 38 years. Didn’t notice any difference with it off either.

 

[Patrick]

Good that there is a solution for your issue. KRUPP, if you don’t mind, can you tell me why you ended up with this interference in the first place? I am learning at your expense. That will be my next project but I want to put the pumpkin on the driver side. Thank you sir.

 

[KRUPP]

Patrick, the housing of the Dana 44 is just larger/beefier than the original Dana 30. Larger ring gear means the differential cover is out further from centerline and that causes the interference with the tie rod. This is if you use Jeep CJ knuckles. If I woulda used the Wagoneer knuckles, it’d be fine, because the steering arms on them are longer, pushing the tie-rod further out. But, I reused everything from the knuckles out from my CJ Dana 30, and also the tie-rod. All this was new/rebuilt last winter.
The tie-rod and drag link setup are different on the Wagoner (and Scout also) and I wanted to stay with the CJ setup.

 

[Patrick]

I see, you kept the outers from the old axle. Thank you for taking the time.

 

[CJ]

Patrick, the housing of the Dana 44 is just larger/beefier than the original Dana 30. Larger ring gear means the differential cover is out further from centerline and that causes the interference with the tie rod. This is if you use Jeep CJ knuckles. If I woulda used the Wagoneer knuckles, it’d be fine, because the steering arms on them are longer, pushing the tie-rod further out. But, I reused everything from the knuckles out from my CJ Dana 30, and also the tie-rod. All this was new/rebuilt last winter.
The tie-rod and drag link setup are different on the Wagoner (and Scout also) and I wanted to stay with the CJ setup.

I see, you kept the outers from the old axle. Thank you for taking the time.

So much good info... Had to quote.

 

[Patrick]

KRUPP, why not ream out the Waggy knuckles instead. Or can they not be used with the rest of the CJ outer components? You will get better steer leverage, which is essential for large tires and was already part of the 44 dimension and design.

 

[Patrick]

Disregard. I reread your last sentences. Maybe you are referring to the Y link steering.

 

[KRUPP]

Patrick, correct.
The Wagoneer steering arms are longer, but there’s only 1 hole in the passenger side arm and the drag link connects to it via a tapered hole in the tie-rod. It’s a different setup than the CJ one I’m reusing.

Wagoneer setup…

 

[KRUPP]

I have the Wagoneer knuckles still and will give them to you, if you want them.

 

[Patrick]

I appreciate that very much, KRUPP. I couldn’t use them.

 

[KRUPP]

Feb 29, 24 (Leap Day):
- Received new front driveshaft today from Adams Driveshaft. Good looking stuff; from the packaging, fit and finish and the T-shirt. Bad-A BAD WORD!

-Plunked-in the front shaft. I know there are different opinions on which way to install them (me, I don’t care). But, Adams suggests slip yoke up and that makes sense.

-Still waiting on the driver seat to be completed at the upholstery shop. Really itching for a test drive! Might break down this weekend and sit on a milk crate!

 

[KRUPP]

Mar 2, ‘24:
-Been thinking about a very minimalist rear bumper. More of a step up to the back than anything. Have a naked rear now. Swing away spare carrier might come later, eventually.
- I spent a few hours and about $50 to get something that’ll do.
-3x3x1/4” angle with a stubby receiver tube and the d-rings attached. Used the 8 factory bolt holes. Chamfered the 4corners to clean it up. Simple and it’ll work.
-I was thinking that I could always attach a spare swing out to it later, since it’s heavy enough. Would penetrate through the top with the pivot point and get a good weld.

 

[CJ]

Simple but effective...

 

[KRUPP]

Mar 3, 24:
-This afternoon, I did what about half of all CJ owners have done; Installed YJ Wrangler rear flares. Fairly straightforward. Just go slow with the cutting.

 

[CJ]

I'm the round style type guy, I like being "classic" and different. Looks good though.

 

[Belizean]

I guess I got left out on this one. Why are people changing their backs out for Wranglers ?