Which heater core to Buy?

[JMark]

Looks like i've got the dreaded heater core leak, going to yank the heater box and re-condition it as well as replace the core.

Looks like there's 2 aftermarket ones available from the usual suspects, crown and omix.

Which one is better at this point? I know both companies quality can be really hit or miss.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Do you know how to solder?
I just re-soldered mine, a few years back.

LG

 

[JMark]

Do you know how to solder?
I just re-soldered mine, a few years back.

LG

I mean i could but the fear is it springing another leak down the road.

Plus even after flushing it, my heat isn't *that* great (i did the blazer blower upgrade a while back)

In fact, at highway speeds in the winter, the jeep doesn't stay at operating temp so i really don't have great heat to begin with, running a 195 tstat.

 

[yellow85cj]

Have you taken it to a radiator repair shop? Most will do a repair for a lot less than the cost of new and clean it out.

 

[JMark]

Have you taken it to a radiator repair shop? Most will do a repair for a lot less than the cost of new and clean it out.

I'll try that route, at least then it's an OEM component.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

The aftermarket ones today are China .
Use a LPG torch and some 60/40 rosin core solder you may need some extra flux.
Pressure test at 20-25psi in a bowl of water look'n for bubbles.
LG

 

[gert]

I mean i could but the fear is it springing another leak down the road.



Plus even after flushing it, my heat isn't *that* great (i did the blazer blower upgrade a while back)



In fact, at highway speeds in the winter, the jeep doesn't stay at operating temp so i really don't have great heat to begin with, running a 195 tstat.

If your 195 degree t stat is working your motor should stay at 195. It is not supposed to open til it reaches that temp. It might be worth replacing your t stat as well as repairing your heater core


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[Lumpy Grits]

Your 195* t'stat starts to open at 195*, and is all the way open at about 210*-215*.
You SURE-it's a 195* t'stat.
I have the OEM blower & 195* t'stat, it will heat my Jeep up with little issue.
LG

 

[mstar]

You could check out some of the radiator shops,maybe find another source for a core. 30 year old core is trouble waiting to happen at the worst possible time. If no other manufacture I would try Crown first. I think it would be worth a try . I have replaced a lot of heater cores and by the time there leaking there to rotten to do much with them . mike

 

[hdgapeach]

My first attempt would be to salvage the original by repairing, pressure testing and evaluating the final condition (providing it's actually the original brass / copper and solder).

Like already mentioned; the aluminum foreign replacements leave a lot to be desired. Plus you'll be subject to the premature corrosion failures associated with aluminum. You'll need to flush the whole cooling system and run collant with distilled water, not tap water, to slow the corrosion down some.

I actually found an original style copper / brass heater core a while back at Sumitt or Jegs (can't remember which one). I think it was manufactured in Mexico, but it was made of the right materials. So far, so good; no leaks yet! Search the web and see if you can find a new one made of the original materials. Mine was 53 bucks and worth every penny (so far). If you find one, save and repair (if possible) the original core, for just such an occasion.

Good luck!

 

[MdkmDixon]

I'm rebuilding an 84 that had the heater blocked off. I'm not too interested in reconnecting it. Has anyone considered an electric option say for just a defroster? We don't get much cold in south Texas.

 

[PistolDave]

I'm rebuilding an 84 that had the heater blocked off. I'm not too interested in reconnecting it. Has anyone considered an electric option say for just a defroster? We don't get much cold in south Texas.

The problem with electric heat is the amount of current involved. For example, a 1500 watt hair dryer does not really produce that large a volume of warm air compared to the average car heater. If you were to try and duplicate that 1500 watt electric heat source in your jeep, that circuit would draw 113 amps of current assuming 13.2v system voltage. I would imagine that the average jeeps electrical system is probably capable of sustaining a max current draw for accessory use of around 40 amps, if that, which would give you a 530 watt heater( about 1800 btu), which is pretty useless. Check out the Flex-a-lite Mojave heater, 12,000 btu, or the equivalent of a 3500 watt electric heater.

Dave

 

[Lumpy Grits]

:ww:

It could be done-I guess. Hook'n the heater core back up would be KISS, and it will not suck the amps out of your electrical system.
Why don't you want to hook the heater core back up?
LG

 

[MdkmDixon]

This was a deer lease jeep and wasn't really cared for, mechanically. The po looped off heater. Not sure yet ifis is even salvageable. I'd hate to put time and $ into something I doubt I'll ever need.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Does the blower motor work?
You only need 2 hoses to connect the heater back up to the cooling system. One comes from the water pump and the other from the back of the intake manifold.
LG

 

[MdkmDixon]

Once I get it back together I'll find out. Pulled front end last night. Should have it back together this weekend. Well, that's the plan. Have to fix the body mount on grill and under it on frame. I'll try to put some juice through blower tonight.

 

[Captainlance]

Got mine from ROCK AUTO, nice quality, and only 31.00

 

[MdkmDixon]

Well, the blower works. The core is a bit toasty. Ordered new one. The foam gaskets are dried out. The metal portions are rusty, broke one of the bolts. Should be a fairly easy fix. We shall see.