What can I do to this cj7 to make it run better?

What can I do to this cj7 to make it run better?

Speedfreek

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Georgia
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83 cj7 i6 3spd 2.73
This is an 87 CJ7 that has a computerized 6cyl engine and it runs like :dung:. I want to yank out the computer and do away with all of the sencors and wires.

My first question will be: what can I do with this carb to get it to run right? It has a big electrical plug in the rear and I would like to just do away with this computerized stuff. Is there a kit to modify this carb to get it to work? Or do I just need to get another carb?
Ebay023.jpg
 
Omitting the computer.

I would like to take out the computer that is located under the plastic jug in this pic. If I do this what would I need to work on. I'm thinking like the distributor and it looks like the carb has some plugs in it too. Basically I'm trying to make this engine as simple as possible. I don't like computers.

I have already taken out some of the electric gauges and installed manual ones.

Thanks for your help.
Ebay020.jpg
 
This is an 87 CJ7 that has a computerized 6cyl engine and it runs like :dung:.

Can you give us some additional information as to the issues you are experiencing? You may have something simple going on that will not take much to remedy.

Does the engine not want to idle, has no power, backfires, etc. Some additional details would be very helpful.
 
Re: Omitting the computer.

I agree 100% with your statement about keeping your engine as simple as possible but you won't be able to get rid of that ignition module.
 
Re: Omitting the computer.

You probably could with a HEI distibutor .Someone will come along and verify this later.It will help if you fill out your profile of what your Jeep is and what it has on it.
Mike
 
I have to agree with Trap. but just looking at the picture I can see a vacuum line is missing and questionable wiring to the carb. My first suggestion would be to get a vacuum diagram and replace all those lines and next get a wiring diagram and check all that to the carb. once that is done post up what the issues are, such as hesitation, bad idle, stalling etc.
 
It won't idle. My dad said it was due to that electric plunger deal on the back of the carb. Sometimes it will idlr but when you mash the brakes and start slowing down it will shut off every time.

I thought it may be easier to work on without the computer in it. I see a lot of cut wires, missing vacuum lines and stuff that I'm not used to working on. Thank you for your replies.
 
Re: Omitting the computer.

You probably could with a HEI distibutor .Someone will come along and verify this later.It will help if you fill out your profile of what your Jeep is and what it has on it.
Mike
That's what I was thinking. A regular HEI and get rid of this carb. Then I could start snatching all of these wires and stuff off of it. I like the clean look!
 
those missing lines are why it won't idle. It needs to develop a certain amount of manifold vacuum and with open lines and ports like that it never will.
Now I am not one to run a lot of computerized control o a CJ, but the year of CJ you are working on has computerized carb, and that is something the did to put off having to go with the cost of fuel injection. I has monitors and systems to support that carb. If you go and eliminate the carb and computer you need to rewire a lot of items that are on the Jeep. and plug a lot of vacuum ports. I would still get the stock vacuum and wiring diagrams so you can search these things down and work around them. Simply replacing sounds easy, and it is easy to think of, but actually reworking the control system is at hand. Good luck.
 
I merged these 2 threads as the answer wanted by Speedfreak is for a way to get rid of the computer controlled carb and the computer and set up with an easier to maintain ignition and carb system. This will simplify discussion and eliminate cross postings.
 
you wanna make it run better right now and for free do the nutter bypass. just google nutter bypass it'll make it run 110% better. the computer that controls the engine is behind the glove box, the ignition control mod. is under the overflow bottle. with the nutter bypass you essentially take the computers control away from it. i would not suggest doing it if you have to worry about emissions
 
Hmm I want to go the opposite way and hybrid my 258 with a 4.0. What years have this computer behind he glove box? I know the ignition module under the bottle is on mine so i'd imagine that if u picked up Carter BBd from an earlier model and hooked up the appropriate vacuum lines to it you could bypas that computer behind the glove box.
 
I find it interesting that you can blame a problem on a part you don't know the name of or the function of. I guess I am one of the few people on the planet that has respect and faith in Automotive Engineers. Everything was put there for a reason, it is very seldom a good idea to remove things because you don't understand them. Some of us would end up with nothing under the hood at all.:cool:

It won't idle. My dad said it was due to that electric plunger deal on the back of the carb. Sometimes it will idlr but when you mash the brakes and start slowing down it will shut off every time.

I thought it may be easier to work on without the computer in it. I see a lot of cut wires, missing vacuum lines and stuff that I'm not used to working on. Thank you for your replies.
 
I find it interesting that you can blame a problem on a part you don't know the name of or the function of. I guess I am one of the few people on the planet that has respect and faith in Automotive Engineers. Everything was put there for a reason, it is very seldom a good idea to remove things because you don't understand them. Some of us would end up with nothing under the hood at all.:cool:

Agreed. Isn't the "electric plunger thing" part of the choke?
 
I find it interesting that you can blame a problem on a part you don't know the name of or the function of. I guess I am one of the few people on the planet that has respect and faith in Automotive Engineers. Everything was put there for a reason, it is very seldom a good idea to remove things because you don't understand them. Some of us would end up with nothing under the hood at all.:cool:
What I'm saying is, I build race engines with nothing "computer controlled" or ugly vacuum lines all over it. It would be easier for me to snatch all of this off and put on stuff that I know how it works. I don't know computers and don't care for them. I can get an engine running perfectly fine without one.

I'm just trying not to spend too much money and time on this. I probably have a carb and distributor laying around that wouldnt cost me anything to put on. I spending all of my spare money on my big block stroker engine going into my 69 camaro. :cool:
 
I think that is what is called a "stepper motor".:cool:
Yep I remember now. That's what my dad told me it was. HE is the electrician and I'm the mechanic. He could probably have fixed this jeep a long time ago. See, he bought this jeep 23yrs ago and he gave it to me about 5yrs ago. I got tired of seeing it just wasting away so I decided to pull it out and get it back on the road. I'm just trying to fix it the best way I know how to. Thanks guys for all of the good info so far. ;)
 
Here is what I did:
Ripped out the computer
rewired the entire jeep with a painless wiring kit
installed weber 32/36 carb
I only use the pvc and vac line to the dizzy.
My jeep runs great.
 
Here is what I did:
Ripped out the computer
rewired the entire jeep with a painless wiring kit
installed weber 32/36 carb
I only use the pvc and vac line to the dizzy.
My jeep runs great.
Thanks for the carb info. I will try searching for one.
 

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