torque arm bushings w/pictures!

torque arm bushings w/pictures!

lowcountry

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Location
Moncure, NC
Vehicle(s)
'83 CJ7, 258, D30, amc 20, D300, 4sp, '70 Z28, LSX, 6sp, 711 fwhp (N/A), 2015 2500 HD Duramax/Allison
Replacing the bushings while I've got it apart. I don't think the op had them installed correctly - now trying to figure out what's right. I did a search and believe I am close to having it correct, but it just doesn't look right to me...

First picture has the outside bushing with the smaller diameter turned up. This allows everything to 'squeeze' together with no gaps.

Second picture has the smaller diameter turned in, as I have seen done in other pictures I found. However, in doing so, it creates about 1/4" space between the arm and the bushing because the two smaller diameters thicknesses is thicker than the steel arm. It would take a lot of torquing down to take up this space.

Also, in both pictures, it seems the torque arm is bent too much- even with three washers. The tranny mount is stressed to one side as you can see...

What am I missing?
 

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I like picture #2.
Smaller diameter goes into the arm's hole.
Put a straight edge on that arm-It should be straight. If not, go to work with your BFH.
LG
 
Last edited:
I like picture #2.
Smaller diameter goes into the arm's hole.
Put a straight edge on that arm-It should be straight. If not, go to work with your BFH.
LG

Thanks LG. That was along the lines I was thinking. The arm should be straight under static load. I think it is a matter of tolerance stack up with the molded bushings and different manufacturers and such...

I think some more washers need to be added to bring it in line.
 
Replacing the bushings while I've got it apart. I don't think the op had them installed correctly - now trying to figure out what's right. I did a search and believe I am close to having it correct, but it just doesn't look right to me...

First picture has the outside bushing with the smaller diameter turned up. This allows everything to 'squeeze' together with no gaps.

Second picture has the smaller diameter turned in, as I have seen done in other pictures I found. However, in doing so, it creates about 1/4" space between the arm and the bushing because the two smaller diameters thicknesses is thicker than the steel arm. It would take a lot of torquing down to take up this space.

Also, in both pictures, it seems the torque arm is bent too much- even with three washers. The tranny mount is stressed to one side as you can see...

What am I missing?
The second picture is the way i have mine installed.
 
I had a similar problem using the polyurethane mounts. The transmission mount is thicker than the OEM rubber mount. I had two solutions:

Using a longer socket head cap screw and a spacer:

TorqueArmStuds001.jpg

Or having a custom length stud machined:

TorqueArmStuds003.jpg

I went with the custom stud. Although, the first option is probably the best from a 'take it apart later' standpoint.
 
Thanks LG. That was along the lines I was thinking. The arm should be straight under static load. I think it is a matter of tolerance stack up with the molded bushings and different manufacturers and such...

I think some more washers need to be added to bring it in line.

I don't mean the level/angle of the arm in the picture.
Is the arm flat/straight when not installed? :confused:
In the pictures, it looks like it has a bend or bow in it.
Also-There should be a second plate on the tranny mount. Look at Hack's pictures.
LG
 
The torque side bushings were never meant to be compressed and tight to the mount. From the factory there was always a small gap. They did not fit shug at all. FYI.
 
I don't mean the level/angle of the arm in the picture.
Is the arm flat/straight when not installed? :confused:
In the pictures, it looks like it has a bend or bow in it.
Also-There should be a second plate on the tranny mount. Look at Hack's pictures.
LG

There is a bend in it when not installed. That was from years of being 'bent' by the two sides not being the same height. And if I straighten it out and put it back the same way, its going to bend again...

Yes there is a second plate (not shown). But adding that plate makes it even worse.

My gut tells me the 'assembly' should be parallel to the mounting surface. But apparently, Energy Suspension disagrees or their measuring skills are lacking...
 
The torque side bushings were never meant to be compressed and tight to the mount. From the factory there was always a small gap. They did not fit shug at all. FYI.

And were they also the same height as the tranny mount?
 
Straighten the torque plate.
Set the round bushing so the bottom bushing touches the underside of the torque arm. Then set top bushing to be snug against the top of the torque arm.
Snug=1 full turn of the top nut after the nut contacts the top of the top bushing.

Hack's setup is the way to go.....;)
LG
 
My gut tells me the 'assembly' should be parallel to the mounting surface. But apparently, Energy Suspension disagrees or their measuring skills are lacking...
Go with your gut...

As I noted, the transmission mount is larger than the OEM rubber mount, the only way to get everything 'in line', is to change the length of the stud, or go with the spacer/bolt setup. Luckily, I have a son who has a metal lathe, and a lot of machining experience. He could replicate the OEM stud, but make it longer. He also custom machined the alternative spacer set up that I didn't choose to use.
 

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