T-18a or any rebuild kit and Terra Flex?

T-18a or any rebuild kit and Terra Flex?
Jim - In a 300 didn't sticks have the reputation of dropping out of gear ... seems like I remember something about going down hill? And not all of then had that problem.

Lumpy - The D-300 that was in the '80 CJ I had was a great transfer case. Maybe because we used a lot, every week end and sometimes during the week it would shift from low to high almost like a synchronized transmission. Dropping it into 4wd low was smooth and simple. All in all a great transfer case.

Peter - really a great offer, still considering it.
 
Jim - In a 300 didn't sticks have the reputation of dropping out of gear ... seems like I remember something about going down hill? And not all of then had that problem.

I did a little research on that and was unable to decide if this anomaly was caused by the installation of twin sticks or new gear kits. It seems people that were experiencing this had one or the other modification. I didn't find a lot of reading on it...seemed random and not common.

I've only done the twin stick conversion and have never had an issue with it dropping out of gear. It may be the type of conversion done. Mine was home-built if that makes any difference.
 
I still use a single stick in my 4:1, D/300 case. That said, I did notice that with the 4:1. I did not have the positive 'feel' of the gear selector, that I had with the OEM gearing. Took a bit to learn this as did the new gear reduction. I have also heard this from others who have had the conversion done.
Just an FYI is all.
LG
 
I still use a single stick in my 4:1, D/300 case. That said, I did notice that with the 4:1. I did not have the positive 'feel' of the gear selector, that I had with the OEM gearing. Took a bit to learn this as did the new gear reduction. I have also heard this from others who have had the conversion done.
Just an FYI is all.
LG
As I recall engaging low range is supposed to be at a slow roll. I usually do it from a stop and cuss at it while I force it in or out. I don't think it matters weather or not it is a single or twin stick.
 
As I recall engaging low range is supposed to be at a slow roll. I usually do it from a stop and cuss at it while I force it in or out. I don't think it matters weather or not it is a single or twin stick.

When I was single sticked, it was a struggle to get into and out of low range. It seemed to go in better at a slow roll...and it was a must to get it disengaged.

After twin sticking it, it is a breeze. I run the front axle stick up first, and then the rear axle (seems to work best). Edit: I "walk" the sticks up. By the time the front is in low, the rear is in neutral...then the last shift point is the rear going into low.

I think a lot of it has to do with the goofy linkage for the shift rods binding up....or it may just be easier one axle at a time. I just don't know.

Sorry....we are getting off track on Hedge's post. :rolleyes:
 
Off track ... maybe a little. Good information for me and others, you bet it is.

Jim - did you remove the "pills" or does the 300 have them, it makes sense that it does. My 300 was GREAT, but well used. It would go in and out of gear with ease.

The twin sticks on my Dana 20 (with the "pills" still in) definitely have to be manipulated in order. Rear first i.e. Rear in low, then front in low ..... front in neutral, rear neutral-high, then front in high. When you are in a hurry things can get confusing, but the short stroke of the sticks make it more than worth it.
 
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Off track ... maybe a little. Good information for me and others, you bet it is.

Jim - did you remove the "pills" or does the 300 have them, it makes sense that it does. My 300 was GREAT, but well used. It would go in and out of gear with ease.

The twin sticks on my T-18 (with the "pills" still in) definitely have to be manipulated in order. Rear first i.e. Rear in low, then front in low ..... front in neutral, rear neutral-high, then front in high. When you are in a hurry things can get confusing, but the short stroke of the sticks make it more than worth it.

Nope. I didn't do anything with the pills. In the far reaches of my memory, it seems you have to modify something on the Dana 20 to twin stick it...something about keeping the front and rear axle from being in hi/low at the same time.
I think with the 4:1 kit you have to notch one of the rods on the D300 if you want to twin stick it.
 
As I recall engaging low range is supposed to be at a slow roll. I usually do it from a stop and cuss at it while I force it in or out. I don't think it matters weather or not it is a single or twin stick.

I have found, even more so after go'n to the 4:1, that if I can back up a couple of feet in a straight line that the shifting is easier.
LG
 
:) I wish the names were more different T-18, T-15, T-14, T-150, AMC20, Dana 20, D-18, Dana 30............... Tried to have a conversation with someone the other day, golly what a mess that turned into.
 

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