Suspension advice needed

[Montanaphilly]

Whats up guys , i have an ol postal jeep ive been doing mods to and I'm just starting to make the suspension more dirt worthy ,I've put together custom leaves, but have the stock main leaf, i want to do a shackle relocation in the rear, along with a longer shackle , while trying to achieve desired shackle angle, my question is this....can I cut the rivets off of the shackle hanger .....relocate hangers.... drill four holes .....then use some good BOLTS instead?

 

[Lumpy Grits]

IMO-Shackle reversal, ain't worth the effort.
What do you think you gain from this?
LG

 

[tarry99]

i want to do a shackle relocation in the rear, along with a longer shackle , while trying to achieve desired shackle angle, my question is this....can I cut the rivets off of the shackle hanger .....relocate hangers.... drill four holes .....then use some good BOLTS instead?

Yes , the hanger needs to be moved to achieve the proper shackle angle now at the rear , and be careful about using longer shackles.......you'll also have to change your mounting up front to accommodate the need to get the springs back working on a horizontal plane......which also means that both castor and pinion angle up front need to be looked at...during the change.

All of this needs to be done at full bump............meaning , all the weight has to be in the vehicle to get the correct angle..........New springs maybe starting at 15-20 degrees and used 25-40 degrees.

 

[Montanaphilly]

IMO-Shackle reversal, ain't worth the effort.
What do you think you gain from this?
LG

With the hanger moved forward and a longer shackle with proper angle , trying to achieve better down travel , and a slightly smoother ride

 

[Montanaphilly]

Yes , the hanger needs to be moved to achieve the proper shackle angle now at the rear , and be careful about using longer shackles.......you'll also have to change your mounting up front to accommodate the need to get the springs back working on a horizontal plane......which also means that both castor and pinion angle up front need to be looked at...during the change.

All of this needs to be done at full bump............meaning , all the weight has to be in the vehicle to get the correct angle..........New springs maybe starting at 15-20 degrees and used 25-40 degrees.

Helpfull info Thank you

 

[Lumpy Grits]

With the hanger moved forward and a longer shackle with proper angle , trying to achieve better down travel , and a slightly smoother ride

Isn't the shackle at the rear of the Jeep now?
Smoother ride with leaf springs, is usually obtained with very 'soft' valved shocks.
LG

 

[Montanaphilly]

Isn't the shackle at the rear of the Jeep now?
Smoother ride with leaf springs, is usually obtained with very 'soft' valved shocks.
LG

The shackle is at the rear , but is standing nearly vertical or close to it , giving the shackles no leverage on the springs, for example , while going over a speed bump , theres no cushion , it's just a really rough bounce, I know I can't achieve a smoothness like you would get out of coilovers , but this suspension is bouncy enough to really hate driving it in the dirt ... as for shocks ,I have some Napa sensitracks...... No remote resi but they work ok, really the only thing that seems to help with ride quality is tire pressure , but with a 3 speed auto , you can really feel drag with too low of pressure,

 

[tarry99]

The shackle is at the rear , but is standing nearly vertical or close to it , giving the shackles no leverage on the springs, for example , while going over a speed bump , theres no cushion , it's just a really rough bounce, I know I can't achieve a smoothness like you would get out of coilovers , but this suspension is bouncy enough to really hate driving it in the dirt ... as for shocks ,I have some Napa sensitracks...... No remote resi but they work ok, really the only thing that seems to help with ride quality is tire pressure , but with a 3 speed auto , you can really feel drag with too low of pressure,

Leaf springs in conjunction with shackles at one end are designed to complement each other as far as ride quality........shocks are designed to limit the speed of compression or extension of the sprung axle package.
All of which work together.......to stiff of spring , no shackle angle , or an aggressive shock will make for a bad ride.......

Folks also get caught up in Lift springs that are longer mechanically for lift , but still in most cases required to operate in the same OEM space......which equals a rough ride mostly due to shackle angle. A longer wider spring with lift is a better choice to manage both ride & lift.....but of course you have to move things around.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

You might want to think about moving the rear shackle hanger on the frame forward, and inch or two. Then look into having your springs re-arched.
LG

 

[Montanaphilly]

You might want to think about moving the rear shackle hanger on the frame forward, and inch or two. Then look into having your springs re-arched.
LG

Right around the same idea I have , bolts are ok?

 

[Lumpy Grits]

I would think so, if the frame is 'sound'.
Use at least GD5 hardware, and loctite. Torque to spec.
LG

 

[tarry99]

Right around the same idea I have , bolts are ok?

So are your rear shackles mounted to the same fixed factory rear spring hanger on the bottom of the frame?

 

[Lumpy Grits]

OP-Can you post some pictures for us to see the area in question?
LG

 

[Montanaphilly]

So are your rear shackles mounted to the same fixed factory rear spring hanger on the bottom of the frame?

It's a 1975 postal jeep , 2.5 wide springs , soa, the hangers are on the sides of the frame , I would consider them more of spindles , as there's only a nut and washer holding the shackles on,

 

[tarry99]

As Lumpy stated above..........pictures would be great.