Rusted Bolts on WARN Locker Hubs!

[jzak]

Hey Guys,

So I recently tried to remove the WARN locker hubs to repack them. The larger bolts attaching the hub to the wheel came off fine, but when i tried to unscrew the smaller allen bolts attaching the cap end, i found them to be seized up with rust. I sprayed it with PB Blaster, but I stripped one of the bolts trying to get them out.

Any suggestion on what you think i should do? I'd prefer not to drill out the bolts and have to retap the holes.

Thanks!

Josh

 

[Hedgehog]

So, don't drill'em that deep. Just knock the heads off. Or drill with a small drill and use an easy out. Some semi-serious heat wouldn't hurt your project.

Language is important. Did you "strip" the bolt, or did you strip/turn the Allen head.

 

[Posi]

If the torque head screw is stripped I would take a small chisel and make a slot for a flat head screw driver. The tapping with the chisel and hammer will help loosen the rusted threads as well. If the flat head screwdriver doesn't work use a small bit and drill off the torque head then you can remove the hub. The exposed screw will then be easy to remove with locking pliers.

 

[Torxhead]

Jzak, it sounds like you have removed the bolt and now have have a stripped out bolt hole. You can now insert a heli-coil or some other type of thread repair insert or go to a larger 8-32 drill,tap, and counterbore insert to repair that stripped hole as you suggested. That locking hub with the stripped hole is just a cheap pot metal and easily stripped out anyway.

 

[Peanut Butter]

For future use: An impact wrench for this application would be ridiculous, except the new drill driver battery impacts are awesome for small bolt and screw use. I have a Ryobi. Inexpensive, bought a big bit drive set to use with it, and I can't tell how many times this thing has gotten the job done. The clue is to listen to the drive as you remove something. If the impact is needed to loosen it you'll hear a couple of taps before the bolt or screw comes out. The attachments for these are endless too.

 

[Hedgehog]

That brings up another life saving option. The good old type of impact driver where you actually use a hammer to smack the tool. These things are simple and really do work especially on motorcycle Philips head screws. The hammer drives the tool into the head while turning the screw. Mine has saved bolt heads many times.

 

[jzak]

Thanks for the feedback guys! @hedgehod I stripped out the allen bolt head, so when you try to unscrew it, it doesn't catch on anything. I wish i was you guys with your Impact Wrenches, and MIG welders. I don't even have a garage to work from.

I'd really prefer not to have to install Heli-Coils. I'm thinking that maybe i should just drill out the bolt heads and install a new hub. I could use some advice on that. I've got a factory AMC20 front end, which i think has a 30 spline axle shaft, but when i look on Summit and Amazon there's no warn hubs that match my CJ. The Hubs they suggest are 27 Spline. Is a AMC20 27 or 30 Spline? Attached is a pic of what my Hub looks like. Maybe the PO installed a aftermarket axle shaft?

Thanks for the help guys!

 

[Hedgehog]

Try easy out's in the allen hole first. Then try a smaller drill hole with a smaller easy out. Heat definitely helps with rusty parts. I doubt the stainless allen heads re rusty though. All else fails drill the head off the bolt. Don't drill past the allen head bolt. To make life easier, pull one of the bolts and see the size of the bole shank, both diameter and depth. There really isn't much depth there. With a drill the same size or slightly bigger than the bole shank drill until the head pops off. Tedious drilling stainless, but not that hard either. Don't worry about the shank. When the hub cover comes off the shank will be easy to remove with locking pliers, or it will come out with your fingers.

 

[mtnwhlr]

use a small bit and drill off the torque head then you can remove the hub. The exposed screw will then be easy to remove with locking pliers.

I think this would work the best for you and the AMC20 is in the rear not the front you should have a Dana 30 in the front. hope this helps

 

[Peanut Butter]

Here's what I was talking about: Ryobi ONE+ 18-Volt 1/4 in. Cordless Impact Driver (Tool Only)-P236 - The Home Depot Doesn't have a battery on this deal, but the price for the whole package is pretty good deal too. I bet I use this thing almost every day around the house. You can attach allen heads, tork head, just about anything. Hedge is talking about a manual device. They aren't too expensive either.

 

[CJim7]

That brings up another life saving option. The good old type of impact driver where you actually use a hammer to smack the tool. These things are simple and really do work especially on motorcycle Philips head screws. The hammer drives the tool into the head while turning the screw. Mine has saved bolt heads many times.

I have a set of these and they do work great.

 

[Hedgehog]

Only downer is you look a little like a Neanderthal while using one. No grace or beauty about the procedure either. Stick the tool on the bolt head and beat the heck out of it with a big hammer. "MMMMM hit'em wif big hammer hitter, do good work."

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Dump those POS Warn hubs and get a set from Milemarker.
That what I did about 15 yrs ago. The MM hubs are far better in all aspects.
Lock-Out Hubs | Mile Marker Industries
LG

 

[dschwab]

If I was in your position I would first try and tap in a torx bit slightly larger than the allen head that was striped. I have had luck with this in the past due to the sharp edges of the bit cut new pockets to grab hold of. Next would be a easy out set. use the proper drill bit for the size easy out and it should work well. If that fails do as someone posted earlier and just drill of the head of the allen head screw remove the hub over the shank and remove the shank with vise grips after.
good luck.