Engine Removing 304 tub off Bell housing question

Engine Removing 304 tub off Bell housing question

FFEH

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Location
Central Texas
Vehicle(s)
1973 cj 5 304 t-15 3 speed transmission
I am removing a 304 from a 1973 CJ5 tub off. I have never removed and engine from a manual transmission except for VW's. Could you remove the engine with bell housing attached and once it is up and out detach the bell housing to mount the engine on the stand. Than when it is time to install remount bell housing to make it easier to align components? I am having trouble visualizing the components in the bell housing. The PO told me that he installed a new clutch so I am also vacillating on the need to remove the engine for clutch inspection. I am also after reading the NOVAK The Novak Guide to Clutches, Linkages & Bellhousings for Jeep® Conversions article aware that I am out of my depth on all the measurements needed to make sure it is all correct. Thanks for your time and expertise.
 
You can easily unbolt the transmission from the bell housing and slide the transmission input shaft out of the clutch assembly with the bell housing still attached to the engine block. Then remove the bell housing from the engine to mount the engine on your stand. Of course you can also leave the transmission attached to the bell housing and just unbolt it all from the rear of the engine as well, but that seems harder to me. Of course the clutch components are inside the bell housing (clutch plate, throw-out bearing, etc). For re-assembly later, you will need an alignment tool. Don't know if you have a hydraulic operated clutch or a mechanical linkage. Here's a diagram of what all is inside the bell housing, also showing a hydraulic clutch actuator, as well as what an alignment tool looks like.

clutch_parts.jpg clutch_alignment_tool.jpg
 
You can easily unbolt the transmission from the bell housing and slide the transmission input shaft out of the clutch assembly with the bell housing still attached to the engine block. Then remove the bell housing from the engine to mount the engine on your stand. Of course you can also leave the transmission attached to the bell housing and just unbolt it all from the rear of the engine as well, but that seems harder to me. Of course the clutch components are inside the bell housing (clutch plate, throw-out bearing, etc). For re-assembly later, you will need an alignment tool. Don't know if you have a hydraulic operated clutch or a mechanical linkage. Here's a diagram of what all is inside the bell housing, also showing a hydraulic clutch actuator, as well as what an alignment tool looks like.

View attachment 77756 View attachment 77757
Thanks for your reply. I have a mechanical clutch how do you use the alignment tool. Does it fit into the clutch disk? The reason I ask about the bell housing is I am trying to avoid alignment problems when putting the engine back in.
 
Engine and transmission have alignment pins. Only if you separate the clutch plate from the flywheel, then you need the alignment tool. Proceed with confidence.
 
Engine and transmission have alignment pins. Only if you separate the clutch plate from the flywheel, then you need the alignment tool. Proceed with confidence.
That's it. There should be two alignment pins on the back of the engine block that will fit into holes in the bell housing when you put it back together. The alignment tool is used when tightening the clutch cover over the clutch disk to ensure the clutch disk and pilot bearing are aligned so that the transmission input shaft will slide back in when reattaching the transmission to the engine. If you do not remove the clutch cover and allow the clutch disk to move out of alignment while the transmission is removed, then there will be no need to re-align it to simply to put the transmission back on. And since you have the mechanical clutch linkage, no need to worry about losing fluid or re-bleeding any hydraulic fluid in the clutch actuator either. Like Patrick said, proceed "WITH CONFIDENCE".
 
If your transmission does not have alignment pins, then its input bearing retainer MUST self align in the bellhousing hole with a tight tolerance. You need to make sure you have one or the other. Good luck.
 

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