Rear axle swap ? Consider the Ford 8.8

Lots of good info there.:chug:
I think the 8.8 is the best deal out there for a jeep.
I have one sitting in my garage that I'm slowly building.
 
One of those links had a force comparison test that was most impressive. I dare say, its comparable to a nine inch.
 
priceg said:
One of those links had a force comparison test that was most impressive. I dare say, its comparable to a nine inch.
Click to expand...


This chart ??

The axle shaft strength tested by Warn Ind:
F8.8= 6,500 (lb. ft.)
Dana 44= 4,600-5,000 (lb. ft.)
D35C= 4,000-4,300 (lb. ft.)
-------------------------------
COT: Continuous output torque rating
MOT: Maximum output torque rating

(Numbers from January edition of Fourwheeler, page 60.)
Dana 35 rear axle COT: 870 MOT: 3480
Dana 44 rear axle COT: 1100 MOT: 4460
Ford 8.8 28spline COT: 1250 MOT: 4600
Ford 8.8 31spline COT: 1360 MOT: 5100
Dana60 semifloat COT: 1500 MOT: 5500]

If you want. Several companies even offer 33 and 35 spline 8.8 axles with a spool. I am researching retro fitting a Detroit with different side gears in a 33/35 spline. Or if the 31 spline gears have enough meat. Then broaching and re-splining.

Interesting fact is the 8.8 uses the same pinion bearing as a D60.
 
Both the 8.8 and the 60 use the same size pinion bearing/shaft. The 8.8 has a smaller ring gear. 8.8 vs 9.75. For the money and advantages of disc/parking brakes. The 8.8 is hard to beat.

Lot less weight and LOTS of aftermarket support.
 
Fifesjeep said:
A stock semi-float... by the numbers.
So I am sitting here wondering how much money has to be dumped into these axles... anybody have an actual figure?
Click to expand...

Welding the axle tubes is a VERY good idea. Much beyond that. There is`nt all that much you would "need" to do.

Their is plenty of "other" stuff you can do. Trusses, girdles, main caps, shafts.............the list goes on........but for what we do, a stock 8.8 with welded tubes would be pretty good.

No it`s not a 14 bolt but for 38`s on down it is package that is hard to beat IMHO.

One great feature is the rear disc/parking brake. It is a clean, efficient set up that is hard to beat.

Yes the axles are C-Clip. There are several ways to convert to non C-Clip if you so desire. But even if the clip falls out or the shaft breaks. The brake caliper is going to keep the axle from walking out. So it could be considered a non issue.

Mine is set up as follows. Which is way more then required. Turning 37`s with a HEALTHY stroker engine.

Moser Ford 9 inch big bearing ends.
Moser chromo 31 spline axles
Ford SVO rotors and calipers
TNT truss
LPW girdle
Mark Williams main caps
Main cap stud kit
Ratech crush sleeve eliminator
5.13`s
Detroit locker

More worried about spitting a CV then breaking the axle.
 
fzsk4p said:
Mine is set up as follows. Which is way more then required. Turning 37`s with a HEALTHY stroker engine.

Moser Ford 9 inch big bearing ends.
Moser chromo 31 spline axles
Ford SVO rotors and calipers
TNT truss
LPW girdle
Mark Williams main caps
Main cap stud kit
Ratech crush sleeve eliminator
5.13`s
Detroit locker

More worried about spitting a CV then breaking the axle.
Click to expand...

So how much money do you have in this axle?... I am seeing a good chunk of change ;)
 
fzsk4p said:
Welding the axle tubes is a VERY good idea. Much beyond that. There is`nt all that much you would "need" to do.

Their is plenty of "other" stuff you can do. Trusses, girdles, main caps, shafts.............the list goes on........but for what we do, a stock 8.8 with welded tubes would be pretty good.

No it`s not a 14 bolt but for 38`s on down it is package that is hard to beat IMHO.

One great feature is the rear disc/parking brake. It is a clean, efficient set up that is hard to beat.

Yes the axles are C-Clip. There are several ways to convert to non C-Clip if you so desire. But even if the clip falls out or the shaft breaks. The brake caliper is going to keep the axle from walking out. So it could be considered a non issue.

Mine is set up as follows. Which is way more then required. Turning 37`s with a HEALTHY stroker engine.

Moser Ford 9 inch big bearing ends.Moser chromo 31 spline axles 550.00
Ford SVO rotors and calipers 350.00
TNT truss 160.00
LPW girdle 125.00
Mark Williams main caps 125.00
Main cap stud kit 15.00
Ratech crush sleeve eliminator 35.00
5.13`s
Detroit locker

More worried about spitting a CV then breaking the axle.
Click to expand...

Fifesjeep said:
So how much money do you have in this axle?... I am seeing a good chunk of change ;)
Click to expand...

Not going to count the Detroit or the gears. That is a wash. The parts total above is 1360 +/- I started with a bare housing and had to add all the parts as required.

Now much of this axle is "extra" stuff that really is not "required".

If you simply got a good 8.8 and welded the tubes to the center section. ............This one item should be considered a must do...........That would be sufficient for the vast majority of folks.

Second would be the truss to stiffen things up.

If C Clips did not bother you then the stock setup would be fine.

Honestly a good 8.8 with decent brakes would be almost a no cost upgrade. Just the price of the axle itself.
 
fzsk4p said:
Honestly a good 8.8 with decent brakes would be almost a no cost upgrade. Just the price of the axle itself.
Click to expand...

Thats what I'm hoping for. I paid $200 for mine, it had good brakes and emergency brake cables. It also has 4:10 gears which is whats in the front.:)
So I'm hoping all I'll have in mine is the cost of a locker and some welding
and a new driveshaft. (I need a new one anyway).
 
Old Dog said:
Thats what I'm hoping for. I paid $200 for mine, it had good brakes and emergency brake cables. It also has 4:10 gears which is whats in the front.:)
So I'm hoping all I'll have in mine is the cost of a locker and some welding
and a new driveshaft. (I need a new one anyway).
Click to expand...


Good deal Old Dog. Know you will be happy and the price is right.

Why did i blow so much an my axle ? Many of the parts were free or at a greatly reduced cost. Set up pucks/rod and line boring for the main caps was free. Welding was a favor.

If I had to do it over again I`d do like Old Dog. Weld up the tubes. Toss on a truss and add a girdle. Job done.

Hey Dog, not sure what your driveshaft u joint is. Or what companion flange is on your 8.8. Some had 1310`s and other 1330`s.

But you can use a Dana Spicer 1310 to 1330 conversion U joint 5-134x. 25/30 bucks or so.
 
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