New Start/New Jeep

[Kilo19]

Hello to all...I think I posted my post in the wrong area, sorry bout that, kinda a first to post a project like this.

So I have a friend that is giving, yea, giving me a body on a 81/83 jeep CJ5, larger axles both for front and back (what kind, unknown as of yet) motor mounts, hard top, jump seat...so everything else will be a project to put together...I'll be getting pictures of it up as soon as he delivers it this week sometime. Oh and this would be my first custom rebuild...so other then small maintance on trucks, this is new ground im plowing, (but im a quick learner and pretty engineering inclined), but will still be interesting.

So he had bought motor mounts to put a 350 straight in, as far as that goes...im wanting to try to look a getting one but any thoughts on the best, worst, years to stay away from? Same with a tranny, I looking at building it pretty stock looking but will put a lift on it and using it for some (minor) work or commute, but i want to be able to pull off the road and over come anything in the front of the windshield . (so with all that, heres another question), 4sp, 5sp, auto, stick, which is better, (i know that what type of driving im doing is key, so...70%off road, 30%street) anything that is prefered over another?

 

[Sasquach]

Yep your in the wrong catagory , but welcome anyway!
Sounds like you got your hands full.
Maybe a moderator will come along and get you in the correct area to start the feedback flow.

 

[Old Dog]

As for the 350? the easyest and cheapest would be a pre 86 that is carbarated. The TBI motors aren't to hard to make work. If your good with wiring than a new one would be the best.
For the trans. I'm an auto guy.

 

[Kilo19]

so since i've posted this in the wrong area, how would i unpost it/delete it?

again still kinda new at this.

 

[jasonmark1993]

Seems like you're in the right area now, was this moved already?

 

[Kilo19]

No, I just wanted to make sure that i was posting in an area that would do the most good.

As far as the tranny goes, I like the thought of an auto...but mechanics go...stick is easier to work on right? not for rebuilding just working on. I like to most of the work my self if possible.

 

[jasonmark1993]

Well, autos are superior to manuals in most performance aspects. As far as the install, its about the same. On a wheeler you're gonna want a cooler so you'll have to run lines which will be a pain.

But, Im a manual guy and always have been so unless I was competing, I'll be running manuals.

Your call.

Generally a manual is cheaper if the clutch assembly (pedals, linkage, etc) are in place.

 

[Kilo19]

Thanks that helps.

I'm kinda with you though that I enjoy driving a manual, but for the amount of driving and type I don't think there's gonna be a big difference between the two. I'm mainly looking at the install and up keep of it after the fact. So being able to start fresh on this project I want to start off with something that hopefully I won't regret later.

Plus I have a father in law that works for ford...and has a graveyard of stuff, for EVERYTHING. and him and I work together pretty well. He's got a lot of knowledge I wish I could download, but since I can't the next best thing is to tow it up, drink a beer and see what happens

 

[Jimbos76cj]

If he has the mounts for the 350 stay with the 350.. What type of wheeling do you plan on doing with it? Im sure you can find strong SBC motor around you pretty cheap.

or there the optional crate motor long block
GM Performance 12499529 - GM Performance 350 C.I.D. 290 HP Engine Assemblies - Overview - SummitRacing.com
29o0 HP 320lbs of torque is decent.. but you will need an intake and a bunch of little nickle and dime parts

or theres option 2 for crate engines
GM Performance 19210008 - GM Performance Complete 350 C.I.D. 330 HP Engine Assemblies - Overview - SummitRacing.com

330 Hp and almost 400lbs of torque and its a complete motor from pan to carb including a flex plate.

as for the trans.. I have a stick in my project but plan on going to an auto down the road.. an auto with a stall converter on it is so much easier to maneuver when you only have to work 2 pedals.. Ive seen a buddy destroy his truck when he started to stall on a hill so he instinctively pushed in the clutch and it started to free wheel backwards picking up momentum.. luckily he smashed a big boulder at he bottom and didnt roll it.

 

[Kilo19]

Thanks that helps alot

Type of wheeling.....hmm well I'm kinda of a beginner, and really have no experiance but I'd like to change that, be able to have a toy that I can use on trips (fishing/hunting) or go out for the weekend and have fun...so nothing too serious. Im not gonna be in any competions, so high end performance is not on my list (at least not yet ), but we'll see.

Now the of the options, whats the logical way to go, if I look at parting and piecing it together would that be better for the type of roads im looking at, customizing it per say, or by going crate, or pulling from another it would be a full set up and more fit. Honestly it doesn't matter cuz i have a lot of time to spend, and i do a lot of research and looking too, trying to find wheels and deals.
I appreciate the advice on the trans...I like stick, but i do have a fear that stalling, burning up something while im out 20 miles in, and then what? triple AAA doesn't do back woods . But between the two, is there a difference when if comes to towing, (w/o a trailer), and putting it on an older motor say... pre 88?

(another thought is i'd like to water proof as much of the motor compartment, at least to a reasonable amount for the driving i'll be doing)
My motto, "plan for anything to happen so when it does, your ready, otherwise your SOL") I do appreicate the advice you guys bring too, this forum is really helpful as far as ideas, and necessary tips. thx again.

 

[Jimbos76cj]

The difference between stick and auto is going to be a hard descision

Auto Pro = ease of driving. put it in D and stomp on the gas. when used with a stall converter you can set it up to kick in when you motor is making the most torque so its like dumping the clutch on a stick.

Auto Con = if it blows, it blows. No way to find a usable gear and limp it back to camp or the road. Cant be pull/push started. Tend to overhear when wheeling, but that can be fixed by a trans cooler. If water gets into case it can do alot of damage.

Stick Pro = you can pick your gear to start in. dont over heat like an auto. You can rev the engine and dump the clutch to try to get wheel speed up to get out of sand. Can be pull started in a gear and limp home. IF water get into them you just change fluid. Easier to water proof.

Con = need a third foot to work it. revving and dumping clutch tends to burn the clutch out.. Ive seen pressure plates crack in half from doing that.

As far as transmission selection goes, Im not a big chevy motor guy so Im at a loss.

 

[Kilo19]

Well that really helps, Im not a heavy footer and tend to be alittle careful, so i don't see myself getting stuck on mountain sides but will still keep it in mind, but i may still sit on it to decide.

So if no chevy what other motor size would you recommend...like say from a ford? My father in law has a WHOLE bunch of fords from 85-00 laying around, also gonna see about running some 30 or 32's with about a 1" lift but nothing more. A 350 from a chevy would be ok, but say from a ford what would be something to consider?

 

[Jimbos76cj]

I like the 5.0HO motors.. or any thing of that type.. really its up to you. chevy, ford, AMC, Buick. Most guys try to stick with a AMC orignal type of motors. the 258, 304,360 or 401. Next after that SBC Gen 1 conversions followed by LS motors. The biggest PITA you will find with installing a motor is #1 motor mounts #2 radiators. IF you can weld or fabricate you can stick any thing you want into it. Ive seen For 302, 351's and 460's in jeeps. The only real determining factor for the swaps is aftermarket swap parts. You cant swing a dead cat with out hitting a company that sells Chevy mounts that bolt into a Jeep. Its a little harder to find ford mounts.

Then you have to make sure your able to bolt a trans mission and Transfer case into it that will leave the front output on the passenger side. You need to see what side the front axle drop is on with the ones he's giving you.

It really comes down to how much do you want to spend on adapters. for less then a grand you could get a AMC 360, 727 and dana 300 that would pretty much bolt right into your CJ that would be more then enough power and strength to run what your looking at.

I would research as much as you can on the Novak site.
Novak Jeep Conversions - Home it will tell you alot of what you need to know about installing motors and transmissions into jeep

Heres a few links to read

Chevy
Chevrolet & GM Engine Conversions into the 1980-1986 Jeep CJ

Ford Swap
Installing Ford V8 Engines in the Jeep CJ, 1980-1986

read through em.. lots of info.

 

[Kilo19]

Thanks a bunch...let me set on it and think through it all....but i really appreciate the info and links...

Since the PO has motor mounts for a 350 i may end up looking at one, just for that reason and start from there.

He's bringing it up this weekend, so i'll have a detailed list of what he has, and what kind/type.

Untill then i'll probly be MIA. but i'll be back if i get more information.

thx

 

[Jimbos76cj]

If going with a chevy I would look into the 700r4 as a transmission and get an adapter for a dana 300.. that will give you a pretty reliable set up.

 

[Kilo19]

So Im back...been a busy weekend and start of the week, new jobs...moving vehicles...anyway this is just a few pictures I snapped...Once I clear the garage a bit I'll start really working on it and taking more pictures.

A little more info too, the PO had plans to put an auto floor shifter, he bought two GM axles (wider then the orginals) both are Dana 20/30 ??? i think. has a back jump seat, the orignal white steel spare tire, 4 chrome plated (little rusty) rims, driver seat, although it's going outta here. and the windshield frame. Body is a little rusty on the floor, but was planning on beefy it up.

Any way will post more as I get too it...have fun.

 

[Kilo19]

So I was able to do some work on it finally!!! I started to take the dash off, remove the wires and speedometer...thinking about keeping the the little vintage indicators, lights, fans, heater....just for looks. There kinda cool. Plus took all the stuff that was in it, boxes from the PO and bags and etc...once I did that I was able to see how bad the rust and damage is onthe floor, which is about the only area, so far, got some pictures of it...plus the PO welded a steel plate on the drivers side to, cover something or what, I don't know, but its coming out,

I got to sit in the seat and get an idea of how tight it is in there, plus how tall it is right now, and i have 2 flats, and its not even lifted , and i thought i was tall? hmmm

 

[Kilo19]

here is a few more pictures

 

[jasonmark1993]

Well, first thing I would do is get a Tetanus shot.

.......and that plate of steel you are talking about was hiding the Flintstones mod you have there.

Then get some heavy gloves, respirator, eye protection and a super size pack of cut off wheels because you have some serious cutting to do.

I had to do a lot of rust removal on mine also. Just cut all of it out. Easiest thing to do, in my opinion, is to get a sheet of metal from a shop and make templates out of cardboard.

On a positive note, getting the body fixed up was fun for me.

 

[Kilo19]

:laugh:

yea, that did come across my mind (about the shot), and since i recycle on the side, i am pretty serious when it comes to gloves, mask/respriators, and long sleeve, pants, and some heavy a** boots, but i'll still keep it in mind. thx


Also, when you did your repairs, how did you go about replacing, like did you weld the new plate on top, or cut a whole new floor in...cuz thats what im kinda thinking of doing. Plus is it a big deal to weld on top of the floor after its been cut out, like making the new piece a little bigger and over lap a bit, or make it fit even, weld a bracket underneth and grind, smooth it out even...either way doesn't matter, but what is better, stronger THATS MY BIG QUESTION, thats how i want to bring this beast back to life, in a way that is not pretty but stronger and lasting. (even if it does take time)