New 1960 Jeep

New 1960 Jeep

0822

Full Time Jeeper
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Location
Sunbury Pennsylvania
Vehicle(s)
1957 FC150 Narrow Track
I will be picking up my new Jeep next Saturday it's a 1960 CJ 5 with a factory steel top and steel doors the roof is plastic, from what I can find about the top it is a factory Jeep top. It also comes with five factory wheels with 6.00-16 snow tire mounted on them. It needs a battery and a radaitor ( a tree branch went through it three years ago) it also needs a battery the question I have would it be a 6 volt positive ground or a 12 volt neg ground?
 
post pics of the top and I will tell you if it is factory
changing to a 12 volt system is worth the time and effort, but you have to make sure you change everything
 
Those 16" wheels are of value and I wish I had them for the 3B :drool:.
They more typically came on the military units, should be 16" x 4" rim, problem is they are too narrow for anything but the NDT's
 
Sas, Have you ever priced new 16 inch rims that are copies of the original Jeep 16 inches

Ouch, just ask them for extra lube

it was my original plan for the 1970 till I got a quote, I can buy fancy alloys for that kind of money:eek::eek::eek:
 
Well yes if they are the combat wheel they go over $250 each but the non combat 16" can be had about $150ish.
 
Those 16" wheels are of value and I wish I had them for the 3B :drool:.
They more typically came on the military units, should be 16" x 4" rim, problem is they are too narrow for anything but the NDT's
Sasquach the one rim has a good year NDT tire on it the owner told me it was the spare. would this 1960 be a 6 volts system? it has a generator.
 
I can't say whether 6 or 12, generators can be 12v also so that is no clue.
Why can't you post pics?

Moderators?
 
send a PM to CJ
we are having trouble with the forum maybe he can help. I am a Mod,but permissions are his admin arena
 
Here are a few more pictures of the New Jeep. Can't wait until Saturday to pick it up. :):D
 
that hardtop just may have been factory, if so it was for the early years
I would protect that fiberglass part with my life if I were you, you are going need to get someone to make a mold of it and make you one because I think the one you have will be very brittle and crack if used, hopefully not.
the doors look factory. OK that top uses a lip that juts out from the front of the windshield to seal it off, see if it is laying in the pile.
I cannot find out for sure if that is Jeep factory supplied or dealer supplied top, but it seems to be a top sold at the dealerships, and not an aftermarket one such as a Meyer or Koenig top.
Great find, definitely one to snap up. and what a guy charges to replicate the fiberglass will be worth it.:D
 
I found the flat metal strip that bolts to the windshield and to the top. The fiberglass top is in really good shape for how old it is. I was able to find a ad from 1960 from Jeep that shows this top I will post it shortly.
Thanks again for the info.:)
 
I have seen that add, however there is another add you can find from the era with another style of Jeep hardtop offered. it seems there were 2 factory styles, one shipped from the factory and one supplied from the dealer, plus there were about 5 aftermarket ones. I think with willys you got the from the factory and with Kaiser you got from the dealer. It was just how they set up the accessory distribution.
 
Thanks for the great info, I will keep an eye out for the other Ad i am going to buy the Ad that i posted and it would be cool to find the other Ad. I will post more pictures once I have it home. Thanks again for all your help.
 
That top is soo cool! What a great find! As far as the 12V or 6V, not sure about Jeep, but most all manufactures had switched to 12V -grnd by 1960. I had a '58 Del Ray a couple yrs ago, that was completly original, with a 283 V8, and was a 12v Neg ground, with a generator. I also had a 54 Desoto with the little hemi V8, and it was a 6V Pos ground, and always had issues with cranking power. I'm 98% sure everyone had switch to 12V by 1960.. It should say on the generator label itself, if you can still read it..

A good way to check it, is to bench test it yourself and drive it with a drill motor yourself, or take it to autozone or advanced auto, or o'riely's, these places should be able to clamp it in their test bench and drive it while you test the output with your own meter... then you'll know for sure.
 

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