Need Help with '79 CJ5 Clutch Replacement

Need Help with '79 CJ5 Clutch Replacement

ameizius

Jeeper
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Location
Hudson, FL
Vehicle(s)
'79 CJ5 I6
Was having an issue with loud grinding when I hit the clutch while going over 30 mph, so I changed the fluids and it was considerably better for several weeks. Now it's very difficult to shift into/out of gears, and there is a shudder to the transmission that wasn't noticeable before. I had a feeling it might be the clutch going out when we had the first issue, but I wanted to rule out other possibilities first. Now it appears that I need to replace the clutch.

I have never replaced a clutch before. I need someone to break it down Barney style for me so I can get this thing knocked out and get my CJ5 back on the road.

Thanks in advance!
 
Solution
There is no one size fits all to clutch replacement, but here are a few basics.
First off, I will say purchase a kit. Replace all the parts, not just the ones that look bad. Kit will contain clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, and a clutch alignment tool.
Start by removing drive shafts. Note positions of the drive shafts (also referred to as phase), ie, you want them to go back in the same way they came out. Most of the time this is not a big deal, but I have had vibration on a few vehicles when I forgot to mark them. Put a mark on the drive shaft, and a mark on the yoke so you put them back in the same way.
Disconnect battery
Remove driveshafts
Remove shifters
Support rear of engine
Remove transmission cross...
There is no one size fits all to clutch replacement, but here are a few basics.
First off, I will say purchase a kit. Replace all the parts, not just the ones that look bad. Kit will contain clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, and a clutch alignment tool.
Start by removing drive shafts. Note positions of the drive shafts (also referred to as phase), ie, you want them to go back in the same way they came out. Most of the time this is not a big deal, but I have had vibration on a few vehicles when I forgot to mark them. Put a mark on the drive shaft, and a mark on the yoke so you put them back in the same way.
Disconnect battery
Remove driveshafts
Remove shifters
Support rear of engine
Remove transmission cross member
It is easier if you separate the transmission and transfer case before removal. If you do this drain the oil from both. A transmission jack is almost a necessity if you have a 4 speed. If you are removing a 3 speed, you may be able to wrestle the transfer case and transmission out.
Disconnect speedometer cable, and any wiring from transfer case/transmission.
Unbolt clutch bell crank from bell housing.
Remove starter
Once you have the transmission out, (may take a bit of wiggling, don't force or pry it out!) Remove the bell housing
Once the bell housing is out, remove the bolts holding the pressure plate in. Loosen the bolts a little at a time to allow the spring pressure of the pressure plate to relax. Once the pressure is off the pressure plate, remove all but the top 2, and bottom screw. Then loosen the top 2 almost all the way out. While pushing against the pressure plate with your hand, remove the bottom screw. The clutch disc will now be able to fall free when you let go of the pressure plate. Remove the 2 remaining screws and the pressure plate will come out.
Unless the flywheel looks like new, remove it and have a machine shop resurface it.
Remove the pilot bearing from the inside bore of the crankshaft. You can usually borrow the tool necessary from most auto parts houses.

Installation
Drive in a new pilot bearing
Reinstall Flywheel
Using clutch alignment tool, insert it through the clutch disc and insert the end of the tool into the pilot bearing.
Hold pressure plate against the flywheel/clutch and loosely install bolts. Draw pressure plate down evenly
Remove alignment tool
Install bell housing
Gently align transmission input shaft through clutch splines and into pilot bearing. Do not force transmission into bearing. If you can't slide transmission in with a little wiggling, you probably did not get the clutch disc properly aligned. Remove bell housing and loosen pressure plate evenly and realign.
If you made it this far, all that is left is to just reinstall everything in the reverse order that you took it out.
Make sure that you reinstall everything using proper torque on all bolts.
Any other questions, feel free to ask. Good luck!
 
Solution
There is no one size fits all to clutch replacement, but here are a few basics.
First off, I will say purchase a kit. Replace all the parts, not just the ones that look bad. Kit will contain clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, and a clutch alignment tool.....

Thanks a lot! This is extremely helpful!
 
Nice write up above!

I've replaced a clutch several times.

Some things I would add - Using a Chilton or Haynes manual can't hurt.
I also take pics along the way, makes it easier to put it together, and you have memories to check later :)

Watch some U-tube videos, they are a big help showing exactly what's going on. Note the clutch disk springs as they come out to make sure the new disk is facing the right way. Not all of them are marked. I have a torque wrench. I highly recommend you use one, especially on the pressure plate bolts and the flywheel, if you remove it.

One issue that came up 2 of the times, is the pilot bearing causing issues. One time I had to chisel the old one out, the other time, the new one was too tight. The tranny was very hard to bolt back in (you should not need to tighten the bolts to get it to mate with the bellhousing). I did, and the vehicle was stuck in gear. I had to take it out and sand the inside of the bushing until it was no longer so tight. Just something to think about if you have problems getting the tranny back in.

While everything is out, I take the opportunity to open the tranny (if it's not too difficult, not sure which tranny you have) and check it for wear. I also check the shift linkage and tranny mounts. Also not a bad time to change the tranny and transfer case oil. Check your u-joints as well.

Be careful, that transmission and transfer case are heavy! Even with a friend and a floor jack, it was still difficult. This is not a job you want to try alone!

I don't want to rain on your parade, but you must assess your abilities before beginning. This can be a difficult and irritating job. Lots of things can go wrong. You also need some muscle, this stuff is heavy. That's not to say you can't do it, just expect to spend a full day with a friend and get good and dirty.

Good luck.
 
Last edited:
Unless the flywheel looks like new, remove it and have a machine shop resurface it

First I want to say GREAT write up. If the clutch is shot the flywheel needs to be resurfaced DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP.
 
There is no one size fits all to clutch replacement, but here are a few basics.
First off, I will say purchase a kit. Replace all the parts, not just the ones that look bad. Kit will contain clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, and a clutch alignment tool.
Start by removing drive shafts. Note positions of the drive shafts (also referred to as phase), ie, you want them to go back in the same way they came out. Most of the time this is not a big deal, but I have had vibration on a few vehicles when I forgot to mark them. Put a mark on the drive shaft, and a mark on the yoke so you put them back in the same way.
Disconnect battery
Remove driveshafts
Remove shifters
Support rear of engine
Remove transmission cross member
It is easier if you separate the transmission and transfer case before removal. If you do this drain the oil from both. A transmission jack is almost a necessity if you have a 4 speed. If you are removing a 3 speed, you may be able to wrestle the transfer case and transmission out.
Disconnect speedometer cable, and any wiring from transfer case/transmission.
Unbolt clutch bell crank from bell housing.
Remove starter
Once you have the transmission out, (may take a bit of wiggling, don't force or pry it out!) Remove the bell housing
Once the bell housing is out, remove the bolts holding the pressure plate in. Loosen the bolts a little at a time to allow the spring pressure of the pressure plate to relax. Once the pressure is off the pressure plate, remove all but the top 2, and bottom screw. Then loosen the top 2 almost all the way out. While pushing against the pressure plate with your hand, remove the bottom screw. The clutch disc will now be able to fall free when you let go of the pressure plate. Remove the 2 remaining screws and the pressure plate will come out.
Unless the flywheel looks like new, remove it and have a machine shop resurface it.
Remove the pilot bearing from the inside bore of the crankshaft. You can usually borrow the tool necessary from most auto parts houses.

Installation
Drive in a new pilot bearing
Reinstall Flywheel
Using clutch alignment tool, insert it through the clutch disc and insert the end of the tool into the pilot bearing.
Hold pressure plate against the flywheel/clutch and loosely install bolts. Draw pressure plate down evenly
Remove alignment tool
Install bell housing
Gently align transmission input shaft through clutch splines and into pilot bearing. Do not force transmission into bearing. If you can't slide transmission in with a little wiggling, you probably did not get the clutch disc properly aligned. Remove bell housing and loosen pressure plate evenly and realign.
If you made it this far, all that is left is to just reinstall everything in the reverse order that you took it out.
Make sure that you reinstall everything using proper torque on all bolts.
Any other questions, feel free to ask. Good luck!
This is great advice, appreciate being concise and clear. Couple of issues I'm having reinstalling in my 78 CJ5. One is finding new bolts for clutch assembly to flywheel. Next , can you verify there's just 1 spring in the bell housing? It connects the throw out lever arm to the housing. The other spring is outside the housing?
 
This is great advice, appreciate being concise and clear. Couple of issues I'm having reinstalling in my 78 CJ5. One is finding new bolts for clutch assembly to flywheel. Next , can you verify there's just 1 spring in the bell housing? It connects the throw out lever arm to the housing. The other spring is outside the housing?
Yes, there may be a spring inside (though many do not use it - I do not) and one outside the bell housing.

As for pressure plate bolts, most any 3/8-16 clutch plate bolt will work. Just be sure the non threaded shank is not to long and the dia. is correct. The Mr Gasket ones below work and can be bought just about anywhere, not just Orileys.

 

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