Looking for longer wheel studs

[phil.casey85]

I am in the process of a full frame up rebuild and currently working on my Dana 30. Does anyone know of a source for longer wheel studs? I have a set that came new with the wheel flanges but in mocking up my allow wheels they don’t leave much thread as they are significantly thicker than the steel wagon wheels. I figure now is the time to replace them if I can find longer studs.

Thanks in advance.


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[CJ]

Do you have a current stud length of what's installed now? Be sure to include the flange thickness.
What length do you want?

 

[CJ]

BTW, I use Moroso extended studs. They can be cut down or left long as I did as a theft deturent.

 

[TSB8C]

ARP makes a set for about $40 for 10 of them. Also some on Amazon that are 1" longer than stock. Amazon link

 

[Project86]

NAPA?

 

[phil.casey85]

Do you have a current stud length of what's installed now? Be sure to include the flange thickness.
What length do you want?

Sorry for the late reply..

What I have are new factory studs that came with the new hubs. I’ve attached a photo of one along with a sketch and measurements. Everything I’ve been able to find (Moroso, ARP, etc) are like 3” long and none have the smooth shoulder under the knurl. It sure if this is strictly necessary but it is a close slip fit to the holes in the rotor. If someone is using something else that “works” without issue, I’m all ears.




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[phil.casey85]

Quick update, I found some stock studs that were used on 80’s 3/4t Fords and dodge trucks. The specs look like they may work, and at $25/10pk next day on Amazon it’s a cheap experiment. I’ll report back tomorrow.


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[phil.casey85]

Update! I ordered some studs and did some comparing. From right to left… Stock CJ front wheel stud, 80’s F250/Dodge stud, Amazon “1 inch longer than stock 1949-2017 Jeep” stud.



All 3 fit the oversized stud holes in a factory rotor:


All 3 will have a press fit into the hub. (The F250/Dodge may have a milder press than the others.


The Amazon “1 inch longer than stock” doesn’t have a long enough knurl to engage the hub when the rotor and hub are assembled.



Looks like I’m back to the ford studs.

I’ll post an update after I do some more checking.


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[CJ]

Great!

Some how I missed following up on this but I'm adding this thread to our important threads section if any one ever has the same issue.

 

[phil.casey85]

An important note here, the F250 studs do NOT allow full thread down to the hub flange face. Meaning you need a wheel with a ~1/2” or thicker bolt circle flange…. Meaning if you use these studs you CANNOT throw a steel wheel back on. I’ll throw some photos up showing this when I get final assembly done.


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[MSB]

I had same problem when i bought new wheels from Discount Tire. Check the hole diameter in your wheels, subtract the diameter
of your stock lugs there should be room for a lug nut that has shoulder that threads on the lug and inside the wheel lug hole. Can't remember what that type lug nut is called but Discount Tire Manager new about them. Toyota uses them on there cars with higher end wheels cost me 24.00 for 23 of them