Electrical ignition switch

[Super8mm]

Where can I get a new ignition switch that is not made in China?

I have had it for about 4 years and I have always had a hard time turning it and if it is cold I had to use 2 hands. Now I turn it and nothing happens. I think this set outside with just a bikini top for a long time.

 

[CJ]

Are you sure it's the ignition switch and not the lock cylander? If it's the lock cylinder I would try some dry graphite lubricant.

 

[Super8mm]

Are you sure it's the ignition switch and not the lock cylander? If it's the lock cylinder I would try some dry graphite lubricant.

I have used some dry spray stuff I got at from a locksmith and that has not helped in the key lock.

I forgot there was a switch thing at the bottom of the steering column. I may just replace both of them as the old girl is 42 years old

 

[Super8mm]

is this the other switch? is the blue thing where the rod pushes against? The other one is the one in my jeep ??

 

[CJ]

That is the actual switch.

 

[Super8mm]

Thanks, I'll see if I can find some made in the USA.

 

[TSB8C]

Just do a push button ignition and eliminate both the key lock and the switch both.
Ignition Post

If you're keeping the same switch setup, Duralast makes (distributes) a good product with a lifetime warranty. Their # LS442 is the one. This is mounted near the base of the column on top of it with a rod that attaches up at the key lock cylinder. The rod inserts into the slot in the side of the switch. When you turn the key, you are pushing this rod up/down to move the switch to the various positions (Off, ACC, Run, Start). The switch is easy enough to remove and test to see if it is sticking or binding up. You can also check the electrical function with an ohm meter.

In your prior post with the two pics, the first one is the ignition switch. The second pic is the connector for the turn signal switch inside the column. That connector has nothing to do with starting the vehicle. That handles blinkers, hazards, brake lights, and horn.

 

[Super8mm]

In your prior post with the two pics, the first one is the ignition switch. The second pic is the connector for the turn signal switch inside the column. That connector has nothing to do with starting the vehicle. That handles blinkers, hazards, brake lights, and horn.

Thank you, I see where the Duralast in made in NC.
I did crawl in to far when looking, I don't have much use in my left hand yet and didn't want to get turned upside down in there and have to call the Fire Dept. to drag my fat hinney out "LOL"

 

[Patrick]

Dry lubricant must NOT be applied directly on the ignition switch. That thing is very conductive.

If the column is the GM type, the ideal way to fix a hard to turn lock cylinder is by taking it apart and also replacing the worn rack and pinion mechanism that turns rotating motion to linear for the rod. This mechanism was designed by GM back in the sixties and is still in the HELP section today! The lock cylinder can also be bought new, key and all. I recently did mine. What a relief.

 

[Super8mm]

Dry lubricant must NOT be applied directly on the ignition switch. That thing is very conductive.

If the column is the GM type, the ideal way to fix a hard to turn lock cylinder is by taking it apart and also replacing the worn rack and pinion mechanism that turns rotating motion to linear for the rod. This mechanism was designed by GM back in the sixties and is still in the HELP section today! The lock cylinder can also be bought new, key and all. I recently did mine. What a relief.

Thank you, is this correct style of lock? It is a AC Delco which is what a lot of GM stuff is.

what help section is it in?

 

[CJ]

It's a GM column. All 80's GM columns are mostly the same (except for tilt mechanism parts.)

 

[Patrick]

It looks like it’s the one, but don’t quote me on it. YouTube is your friend.

 

[Super8mm]

Thank you, I have my YouTube search queued up, now to get the time to watch them

 

[NotTJ]

So if my key is hard to turn I need to replace the lock cylinder in the column and the rack that hits the switch right? Whats the Delco number on the rack?

 

[CJ]

Do you have tilt or non tilt? I don't know non tilt but tilt DORMAN is. -->> https://www.finddormanhelp.com/Product?ProductID=2754&pcat=2&cat=37&page=13

 

[TSB8C]

Check here for all the parts (sector gear, rack, rod, etc) for both tilt or non-tilt columns. Column parts

 

[Super8mm]

Thank you TSBBC, that is great information

 

[NotTJ]

Thanks guys! I am non-tilt and it looks like perhaps some light machine oil on certain pivots and slides may be all I need. I will have the steering wheel off to fix the turn signal stalk and can probably give things a light cleaning to see whats up.

 

[TSB8C]

Thanks guys! I am non-tilt and it looks like perhaps some light machine oil on certain pivots and slides may be all I need. I will have the steering wheel off to fix the turn signal stalk and can probably give things a light cleaning to see whats up.

While the gears can and will wear over time, many times old grease has dried up and bunched, mixed with dirt, and/or become hard and brittle. Some good cleaning and re-lube of the parts can solve a lot. Check for worn teeth on the gears. If none noted, you're on the right track with a good leaning.

 

[Patrick]

Taking apart, cleaning and lubricating is a good short term fix. Parts are cheap and easy to come by. Replace!