Help! Fuel guage

[Munypit]

Need help, My fuel gauge shows always shows full when the key is on and drops to empty when the key is off, installed a new sending unit and the same thing happens.

 

[Barry2]

The wire from the sender to the guage is shorted out somewhere possibly.

 

[Torxhead]

Check Jeep guru John Strenk's The new Gauge Page

 

[Munypit]

ohmed the fuel sending unit it was good. ohmed gauge was a little low from s to ground but every thing else is good. did find that the jumper from a on the fuel gauge to the temp gauge was loose. checked voltage on the red wire to I it was 11.9 volts could not get a reading for voltage at A terminal going to try running a new wire to the sender and see what happens

 

[Munypit]

Went back and checked gauge again and found it was bad. Any recommendations for a replacement cluster?

 

[deadfeat]

Dont buy a cheap one from china.

Sent from my Galaxy S3 with Taptalk 2

 

[Munypit]

Which brand is not from overseas? only found 3 replacement brands; Dakota ( not quite ready to spend that much), Omix-Ada, and Crown

 

[tonkit]

Check Jeep guru John Strenk's The new Gauge Page.

Another "dead" link. Please do a search for The New Gauge Page

 

[TSB8C]

Went back and checked gauge again and found it was bad. Any recommendations for a replacement cluster?

Not cheap, but I love my Dakota Digital gauges. All electronic, built-in tach, bright LED lighting, programmable speedo for tire/gear changes, work perfectly. You could send yours in to a place named "ClockAndGauges.com" to have the original repaired/restored. In terms of after market replacements, Crown and Omix are about the only choices - but their both made in China. If you could find some NOS, that would be ideal - but good luck. DeadJeep.com may have some.

 

[j6824]

^+1 on the aftermarkets...I went with the SpeedHuts

Not at all cheap, but the peace of mind that comes with knowing exactly what's going on is hard to beat...particularly oil pressure and temp

If the factory appearance isn't high on your list, quality universal aftermarkets can be had for less...still a better alternative to the originals

Even with restoration (and I can't imagine that's all that affordable, either), they weren't all that fabulous to begin with

 

[TSB8C]

Not at all cheap, but the peace of mind that comes with knowing exactly what's going on is hard to beat...particularly oil pressure and temp

Agreed 100%. Peace of mind with vital engine info is important. Another thing I liked with the Dakota Digital is the stock look and stock mounting in the original holes. So turn signal indicators, high beam, 4WD, brake warning, and all readings are still there where they should be. Plus the added benefits of a clock, tack, odometer, and other readouts all built-in without other gauges/indicators hanging under the dash, strapped to the steering column, or additional holes to cut. No more mechanical speedo cable. And with my ECO for Edelbrock Pro-Flo system, a BIM interface for even more engine diags.

 

[Project86]

Dakota.

 

[TSB8C]

Dakota Digital set in my CJ7.

 

[Project86]

^^ good clean look.

 

[Patrick]

I thought your Jeep was an automatic…

 

[TSB8C]

I thought your Jeep was an automatic…

It is now. That pic was taken earlier. The gauges was one of the first things I changed out. I now have a SBC 350 with a 700R4 auto. So new Lokar shifter and I twin-sticked the D300 when I did the engine/tranny swap.

 

[Patrick]

Off topic but you do know there is an “automatic” brake pedal assembly with a wide brake pedal to complement your mod, right? Hard to find but they’re there somewhere. As for your 700r4, when does your lockup engage?

 

[Patrick]

And on the speedo cable connection at the transfer case, how did you seal it up now that you don’t use a cable?

I am in the process of a total instrument cluster redesign similar to @Project86.

 

[TSB8C]

Off topic but you do know there is an “automatic” brake pedal assembly with a wide brake pedal to complement your mod, right? Hard to find but they’re there somewhere. As for your 700r4, when does your lockup engage?

Yea. That is a wish list item to change the pedal out someday. But not a high priority.

My lockup uses the standard internal solenoid inside the transmission so that it locks the torque converter anytime the tranny is in 4th (OD) gear. Simple 1-wire hookup to the tranny's connector to bring in +12 for the solenoid. Internal to the tranny is a switch that grounds the other side of the solenoid whenever you hit 4th gear. There are other options to put an external switch where you could enable/disable the lockup feature (towing for example) if you want to, or to lock it up in other gears (not sure why you would want that). I also replaced the brake light switch with a dual switch. The dual switch has one normally open and one normally closed both built into a standard switch that fits in the stock location. The normally open part functions as the standard switch to close when you hit the pedal and turn on the brake lights. The normally closed part allows the +12 to the tranny connector. If you hit the pedal, then that opens up and disconnects the juice for the tranny lockup solenoid. In this way, even when in OD gear, hitting the brake pedal disengages the lockup feature. The switch is a Painless Performance # 80176.

The lockup occurs at bout 45-50 MPH with normal driving, again when the tranny shifts into 4th (OD) gear. Under harder acceleration, it may not occur until about 55-60 MPH. And of course it unlocks whenever the tranny downshifts when I punch it hard to pass for example.

 

[TSB8C]

And on the speedo cable connection at the transfer case, how did you seal it up now that you don’t use a cable?

I am in the process of a total instrument cluster redesign similar to @Project86.

No need to seal up the speedo cable connection on the transfer case. You still use it. The Dakota Digital gauge set includes an electronic sensor that screws into the same hole where the mechanical speedo cable use to go. You then have an electrical wire that plugs onto this sensor and connects to the gauge controller module under the dash. This sensor has an internal spinning part that converts into electrical pulses that the controller "counts" to determine your speed. There is a programming feature where you go for a test drive and tell the unit how fast you're going (use a GPS or your phone) and it then "learns" how many pulses equals what speed. Any time you later change gearing or tire size, you just re-do the programming again.