Garage heater setups

Garage heater setups

Deerejeep

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Bettendorf IA
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'81 CJ7 4 cyl. S4, d300 soon to be amc360 t18 D300. Restoration.

'08 JK 4" lift, 35" and on and on.
Well it's getting cold here in Yankee land. You can check out my build thread but, long and short. If I can't work over the winter, I'll not make my goal of July finish date on my rebuild.

So I've got a 3 car insulated garage (750 sq. ft) with 10 ft. Ceiling height. I think I'll go with a 60000 btu gas unit and have it installed.

What setups do you have?
 
I have a 275 gallon oil tank with a door cut into the end and legs welded to it. I threw some sand into it so it doesn't burn out the bottom. I pick up a bunch of junk wood throughout the summer to burn in it.
 
I turn on a couple of halogen work lights, this seems to work pretty well down to 40 or so. For the week or so it gets colder I just stay inside and watch TV.:D
 
I turn on a couple of halogen work lights, this seems to work pretty well down to 40 or so. For the week or so it gets colder I just stay inside and watch TV.:D

Agreed. This worked well in Dixie land but not here.
 
Well this is kind of a thorn in my side issue. I have a Miller oil gun furnace (top plenum) in the corner that I run on kerosene or #2 heating oil, but last year is quit working on me. I bought a new controller unit but that wasn't it. The transformer is throwing a good arc. And the oil pump is pumping, as witnessed by bleeding it. So I don't know what is wrong and I've just been putting off having someone look at it since I work everyday.
I do supplement it on the cold days with a Kerosun heater but between those fumes and a possible cracked box on the gun furnace (it's from the 70's or 80's) giving off some fumes, I wake up the next day with a headache. So now I'm thinking maybe go with a propane heat source, but that will take up room in my already jammed 2 car garage.
 
I havent done it yet but i want to get a window unit that has heat and ac in it to warm my garage since im neighbors to IOPORT :chug:
 
Well this is kind of a thorn in my side issue. I have a Miller oil gun furnace (top plenum) in the corner that I run on kerosene or #2 heating oil, but last year is quit working on me. I bought a new controller unit but that wasn't it. The transformer is throwing a good arc. And the oil pump is pumping, as witnessed by bleeding it. So I don't know what is wrong and I've just been putting off having someone look at it since I work everyday.
I do supplement it on the cold days with a Kerosun heater but between those fumes and a possible cracked box on the gun furnace (it's from the 70's or 80's) giving off some fumes, I wake up the next day with a headache. So now I'm thinking maybe go with a propane heat source, but that will take up room in my already jammed 2 car garage.

If you have a good spark from the transformer check the electrodes at the end of the burner.:)
 
Yes I also did that, cleaned them up, gaped them, new nozzle. Unless you mean check the arc AT the electrode tips, then no I didn't but I'm not sure how I could. For the transformer I was just holding a screwdriver on one spring and getting it near the other enough to arc. The only thing I didn't try was a new elec. eye but I figured that wouldn't come into play yet since it never fired up to begin with. Am I thinking correct on that?
 
Miller oil gun furnace is now off the list :eek:
 
:) It worked great for many years prior to this though. A 24x28 block garage heated up in a half hour. And theres only 1" insul. panels for the ceiling and many air gaps between them.
 
:) It worked great for many years prior to this though. A 24x28 block garage heated up in a half hour. And theres only 1" insul. panels for the ceiling and many air gaps between them.


Just having some fun. All good things come to an end.


What else do you guys have? I get really de motivated with a cold garage.
 
For my three car garage I use a:
Mr. Heater 30,000 BTU Propane Blue Flame Vent-Free Heater, VF30KBLUELP

For our sun room I use this Whynter, it will cool and heat:
Whynter 14,000 BTU Dual Hose Portable Air Conditioner with Heater (ARC-14SH)
 

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I have a 2 car garage that I use halogen lights to heat up the air and I have a an electric radiant heater over my work area. Does the job pretty well, I can keep it around 70 in the garage as long as I keep all the doors shut. Gets a little too warm under the radiant heat if I get to wrenching hard.
 
It's 9 degrees here and I was working in the garage yesterday. I'm having a 45000 btu sterling natural gas installed. More than what I wanted to spend but it's sized to go 70 degrees at -10!
 
I was just online looking for the Mr.Heater wall mounted unit shown above. I went to Tractor Supply's site for pricing and ran across this deal. A 35k btu portable, rechargable, propane heater on clearance for $50 but was reg. $100. So I ran down to the local store and grabbed one. You can plug it in with the recharging cord and it will run off AC and charge the battery at the same time.
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Yes I also did that, cleaned them up, gaped them, new nozzle. Unless you mean check the arc AT the electrode tips, then no I didn't but I'm not sure how I could. For the transformer I was just holding a screwdriver on one spring and getting it near the other enough to arc. The only thing I didn't try was a new elec. eye but I figured that wouldn't come into play yet since it never fired up to begin with. Am I thinking correct on that?
You are correct with the electric eye, that is a part of the safety circuit it allows the unit to start and stay running only if it see's the flame after 45 seconds if it does not see the flame it will shut down on safety, then you must reset the red button on the controller. The electrodes should be set about a 1/2 inch up from the center of the nozzle and about 1/8 inch in front of the noaale and about an 1/8 inch apart. It should start with these settings.
 
So are you saying the elec. eye does come into play even during initial startup? Cause it doesn't fire even for it to "not" see a flame. And it does shut down like it should. I guess they can't be too expensive I'll track one down and give it a shot. It's really the only thing I haven't replaced, beside the pump but that it working.
 
So are you saying the elec. eye does come into play even during initial startup? Cause it doesn't fire even for it to "not" see a flame. And it does shut down like it should. I guess they can't be too expensive I'll track one down and give it a shot. It's really the only thing I haven't replaced, beside the pump but that it working.

The small eye that is sometimes mounted to the bottom of the transformer is called a Cad Cell( incase you go to order one) What happens when you turn your heater on? If the burner motor starts and the transformer sends 10,000 volts to the electrodes and you have oil spraying out of the nozzle at 100 PSI you shold have fire. The Cad cell allows the primary control to start the burner, if it doesn't see a flame with in 45 seconds it shuts down the burner causing the red safety button to pop out. You can call me if you want 314-258-4923
 
Back up to the top. It's getting cold. What are you guys using?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
So are you saying the elec. eye does come into play even during initial startup? Cause it doesn't fire even for it to "not" see a flame. And it does shut down like it should. I guess they can't be too expensive I'll track one down and give it a shot. It's really the only thing I haven't replaced, beside the pump but that it working.

Ok, lets get back to the basics. I've seen everything mentioned except replacing your nozzle and fuel filter. If you have spark, air, and fuel, you should have fire. Many many times, I find a dirty nozzle, which I replace just about every time I touch a fuel oil furnace. dirt can and will get into the orifice, and can cause the spray to spray off angle and not ignite or can be clogged completely which is not hard to do. Nozzle should be replaced every year. Now, it's hard to see if it's dirty, I never clean them unless I want to return some night late. Lets say, your nozzle is stamped .75, on the 5/8 hex end, and then stamped 80A. That is 3/4 gal an hour with a 80 degree angle hollow spray an 80 B is a solid spray If it is 70 B, then 70 degree angle. Sometimes it's on a tag in the furnace on what it takes. If you have a fuel filter, replace it. You mentioned spark. Your checking it right, but how much spark? When you lay your transformer back, in light, take your screwdriver and cover the cad cell until it takes off. Take your screwdriver like you did, and lay it on one spring, slide it over to the other spring, and slowly pull it back. You should get an arc about an inch before it breaks off. If it's a small arc, then your transformer is weak. When setting your electrodes, on an 80 degree nozzle, I like 7/16" from the center of the nozzle to the electrodes. I like my electrodes to be about even with end of the nozzle, and 1/8th inch apart. On a 70 degree , I like all the same, except, an 1/8th" out from the face. Cad cells are kinda rare to be bad, but like it was said, you cant really check unless it's running, I ohm them out, but I don't believe that's your problem. Now, you mentioned fumes. Fuel oil furnaces need to have the soot cleaned out of them. Many furnaces have clean out caps into the heat exchanger, or some way to get into the heat exchanger. The flu pipe should be removed and get cleaned out. If either is blocked, you can and will get fumes. and when you open the door to the burner, heat will pour out at you, and that means you don't have the proper draft. Bottom line there, if you open the burner inspection door while its running, and heat comes pouring out, your not drafting properly. It needs to be a negative draft. Hope this helps. I heat with fuel oil in my garage, and also repair them daily for 28 yrs. Sorry for my bad, I just now seen where you changed the nozzle.
 
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