Frame measuring tool
mriplaybass
Full Time Jeeper
- Posts
- 2,345
- Thanks
- 3
- Location
- Wisconsin
- Vehicle(s)
- 1979 CJ7 304 T18 w/6.32 lo d20 w/3.15 TeraLo D44 rear & D30 Front w/4.56 Eaton Elockers front and rear,
1959 CJ5,
1954 CJ3B,
1967 CJ5,
1947 IHC KB1,
1947 IHC KB2,
1947 IHC KS5,
1967 Mustang Coupe,
Before I invested in a tram gauge, I still needed a way to check frames and body parts for squareness. I came up with a simple, but effective way to do this. I found that using a tape measure was prone to error since frames and body parts are not perfectly flat. The tape measure would inevitably go over something that caused a bow or bulge in the tape, and thereby threw off the accuracy. I thought to myself, what I need is a big compass, you know, the kind that is used to draw circles. Here is what I came up with.
I took a 1x2 and ripped it with my radial arm saw so that I had 2 pieces about 3/4" square x roughly 59" long. (Much longer and the wood tends to flex too much)
Next I joined the 2 pieces with a 1/4" x 2 1/2" carriage bolt and wing nut.
On the other end I drilled a hole a size or two smaller than the shank of a wood counter sink and gently pounded it into the hole. The counter sink works great since given it's large tapered shape, it self centers in one of the symmetrical frame or body holes. The hole must not be too small, or the counter sink will split the wood when you drive it in. Too big, and it will fall out. On the other leg, I pre-drilled a hole an partially drove in a finishing nail. I then sharpened the nail with a disc sander.
I used this for rough measurements. I now use a tram gauge to get things right on the money.
I didn't post this tool sooner because it only gets you close, and not many people can justify purchasing a tram gauge for only one or two uses. Then I recently read something posted by Tarry99, and thought to my self, "DUH!"
After getting close with this gauge you can, as Tarry99 suggested, drop a plumb line from known symmetrical points on the frame (the ones you used the giant compass on) and mark them on you floor. Then move the frame over and cross measure the points with a good tape measure. Using this tool eliminates the necessity of having to constantly move the frame to measure the points on the floor.
Sometimes it takes someone pointing out the obvious to get the little light over ones head to go on!
Thanks Tarry! 
I took a 1x2 and ripped it with my radial arm saw so that I had 2 pieces about 3/4" square x roughly 59" long. (Much longer and the wood tends to flex too much)
Next I joined the 2 pieces with a 1/4" x 2 1/2" carriage bolt and wing nut.
On the other end I drilled a hole a size or two smaller than the shank of a wood counter sink and gently pounded it into the hole. The counter sink works great since given it's large tapered shape, it self centers in one of the symmetrical frame or body holes. The hole must not be too small, or the counter sink will split the wood when you drive it in. Too big, and it will fall out. On the other leg, I pre-drilled a hole an partially drove in a finishing nail. I then sharpened the nail with a disc sander.
I used this for rough measurements. I now use a tram gauge to get things right on the money.
I didn't post this tool sooner because it only gets you close, and not many people can justify purchasing a tram gauge for only one or two uses. Then I recently read something posted by Tarry99, and thought to my self, "DUH!"
After getting close with this gauge you can, as Tarry99 suggested, drop a plumb line from known symmetrical points on the frame (the ones you used the giant compass on) and mark them on you floor. Then move the frame over and cross measure the points with a good tape measure. Using this tool eliminates the necessity of having to constantly move the frame to measure the points on the floor.Sometimes it takes someone pointing out the obvious to get the little light over ones head to go on!
Thanks Tarry!