And THIS is what I found.....

[CJim7]

Just prior to my CJ deciding it wanted to quit running, I had it out for a little drive and noticed a "clunking" coming from the rear end. Not just the sound, but you could feel it (almost like a flat tire, but not that dramatic)

So last night I decided to tear into the rear end. At this point, I was suspecting it was just the U-joint, but this was a good chance to check and regrease bearings as well as inspect the R&P and locker, bearing caps, bolts, etc.

What I found was simple....but a little unsettling.



What you are seeing is the brake piston behind the axle flange. One of the lug bolts had broken free and spun back out during a lug nut install (probably when I rotated my tires not long ago). the bolt head of the lug contacted the brake piston and was working on grinding it apart.

A quick lesson for anyone doing a 1-piece install. the lug bolts are to be torqued to 65-75 ftlbs with thread locker. this is mandatory, but more importantly, if you remove and replace lug nuts, be sure to check that these lug bolts are not loosening. They will not tighten back up when torqueing the lug nuts down like most lug bolts will as they are threaded. Tightening the nuts only loosens the bolts once they are broke free from the flange. They will simply spin out as the lugs are tightened and damage the brake assembly or worse.

On the bright side, the diff and locker are still tight and look brand new after over 15 years of use. Bearings looked great.

 

[Torxhead]

Yeah, sometimes you have to just take stuff apart to see whats wrong. I am thinking the air wrench got the stud a bit too tight.

 

[Hedgehog]

With the flange damaged, how did you fix, the stripped (?) hole for the lug nut stud?

 

[CJim7]

With the flange damaged, how did you fix, the stripped (?) hole for the lug nut stud?

It wasn't stripped thankfully, just backed out. I'll be able to add some locktite and re-torque it back down luckily.

 

[Hedgehog]

Good to hear. I wasn't sure which was the case. Until recently once my studs were set they stayed in place, but recently a couple studs came loose almost on their own during routine maintenance....... no it wasn't maintenance it was during a rear axle housing swap, Dana 44 to better Dana 44. The axles were pulled and set aside on their studs. During installation a couple studs came loose, they were reset, but didn't seem as tight as expected. I guess I'm saying that what you experienced is not as uncommon as one would expect.

 

[CJim7]

Yeah, sometimes you have to just take stuff apart to see whats wrong. I am thinking the air wrench got the stud a bit too tight.

It's hard to say exactly what happened, but I'm guessing the lug nut got bound up somehow on the stud and as it tightened up, it started unscrewing it from the flange. They almost should have machined a smooth bore and a head recess on the flange....or even just used a smooth bore with standard lug bolts that draw tight as you tighten the nuts.

But I guess that's why I'm not an engineer

 

[Hedgehog]

Are the studs screwed into the flange? ... interesting.

 

[CJim7]

Are the studs screwed into the flange? ... interesting.

They are indeed

 

[Hedgehog]

Mine were just the old drive'em in and call it day type. Other than tightening them up from the back every time, how do you know if they are tight? I suppose the loose ones would be shorter... Thank you for educating me on this.



Sorry, I'm not trying to drag this on, I was just curious....

 

[CJim7]

Other than tightening them up from the back every time, how do you know if they are tight? I suppose the loose ones would be shorter... Thank you for educating me on this.

Thats what is unnerving about it. You really don't know. The lug nuts could be tight even though the studs are backed out.
I guess you really have to rely on the locktite and stud torque to do their job.
The bad thing is if one does come loose (like mine) then you have to detach brake lines, pull the axle, remove the bearing and backing plate in order to do it right and fit a torque wrench on it. (There isn't enough room with the backing plate to fit the torque wrench in there)
And then repress bearing back on it and reassemble it all again.

Or.....slide an open end attachment (crows foot?) on there, but I don't have any exotic tools like that and wouldn't know how to use them with a torque wrench if I did.

Or.....just use an open end wrench and hope you can get close to the torque you need.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Who made the axles?
LG

 

[Peanut Butter]

It is amazing what can rattle loose. I replaced my front disc brake pads on our Escape a few years ago. Never used thread locker on the bolts that hold the caliper on. Wife went on a trip, caliper came loose, and destroyed the wheel before she could get it stopped. Costly lesson to learn.

 

[CJim7]

Who made the axles?
LG

Superior

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Guess they really weren't.......
Take a look at Moser.
LG

 

[CJim7]

Guess they really weren't.......
Take a look at Moser.
LG

At the time I bought these, they were the premier kit out there (them and Moser). I'm not sure if Superior is even still in business.

Over all, I've been happy with them....just not so much with the lug bolt issue

 

[Lumpy Grits]

You're not the first I've seen or heard about the lug nut deal.
The Moser's are press fit with the lugs.
Good luck with the fix,
LG